Another minor issue (could become major), my calipers are dragging on my roators. I checked the temperatures and came up with 200 and 230 degrees. I've read where they should be in th 140-150 range. Can anyone verify/correct this? I'm thinking the flexible hoses are collapsing inside. I've encountered this on my 73 square back. Would a bit of drag be normal? I'm thinking "no" but correct me if I'm wrong. Also any other possibilities? Thanks

 

Both dragging equally? Have you confirmed their temperatures are equally hot?

 

Which rotor (or rotors) and have you changed the brake pads on that wheel recently?

 

In our rust-prone environment I often see that the caliper body corrodes where it contacts the rubber of the guiding pins.
To resolve this you pull the caliper, push the pin out, then with a blunt screwdriver you wiggle the rubber free and remove it. Then you can clean the bore with a wire brush (think gun shop) and reinstall rubber and pin with appropriate lube.

The rust in the bore presses the rubber to the pin and the caliper sticks that bad that when you release the brake the outer pad stays pressed onto the rotor.

 

The drivers side was 230 degrees, passenger side 200 degrees. We opened the bleeder on each side with no change. The tires would not freewheel. Both sides were replaced in late January. About 4-5 thousand miles of use. At the same time the rears were redone all new components, including axle seals. The seals failed (both sides) and I smoked the s#%$& out of the fronts stopping for a flagger on a down hill pulling my trailer. I'm thinking something deformed when they got hot and won't fully retract. The glue that holds the pad material bubbled it was so hot. It's not real bad but I noticed a slight pull to the left and now I think I have the culprit. The bulk of the time for these brakes was in Arizona.. Hotter and dryer. I'll post a result after I dig into this issue.

 

Yup.....that'll do it. Sounds like you need some new calipers. And it wouldn't hurt to check out those brake lines either.

 

Changing the brake fluid won't hurt either. Brake fluid does absorb moisture over time and that can, and will corrode your lines and caliper bores from the inside out. Every three to five years is a good interval for brake fluid change.

This tool makes it an easy job:

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-mopar-bleeder

I have one of those and I have been able to bleed all 4 wheels in under 30 minutes.

 

Yes brake fluid is hygroscopic and will collect moisture created during the cycles from severe hot to cold. Although I dont change my brake fluid very often simply because I tend to not get my brakes very hot. I just changed the front pads on this truck with 115k miles on them and there was almost 1/4" of material left.

 

I had to replace the calipers on my 2001.5 2500. I thought it was because I didn't drive it enough, but the pistons weren't retracting. The pistons are plastic, so replace them if you are re-building the calipers you have.

 

Good idea on the fluid. I changed the fluid on my T3 to dot 5 as it supposedly doesn't draw moisture. Is there any reason not to use it in this instance? I'll also check out the tool as I'm real Leary of the mechanics I encounter these days.

 

I wouldnt use Dot 5..... Silicone based.

 

Only use 5 if you have rebuilt your entire brake system!
The silicone will eat seals if they aren't compatible and the older stock parts weren't.
On the positive side if you did use silicone you will have a a nice new working brake system.....eventually.

 

Well OK then. I don't want to rebuild everything again. I'll keep it as is and make sure it functions as it should. Stops and releases. Dot 5 maybe later. Thanks

 

You could use DOT 5.1