What exactly does the APPS look like? When I took the black cover off I didn't know what I was looking at. What actually needs to be replaced?

 

Unfortunately, you have to replace the sensor AND bell housing because they don't come separately. There are 6 10mm(?I think) bolts that you can see when you take the cover off. Usually, you see in there that little sticker that says you have to replace the whole thing and you can't service it any other way.
We haven't found anyone who knows where to get the actual "sensor", so you have to buy the apps/bell housing "assembly" as one unit. For way too much money. I just changed mine cause it was getting funny and throwing codes.
I was going to take the sensor apart and see if it's got a potentiometer in it with the values still imprinted on it, etc., But haven't gotten around to it yet.

The apps sensor/bellhousing assembly will cost you around 333 bucks from cummins....I think.

 

That's right, and when you take the screws out and disconnect the cables, then unplug the harness from the bottom and out she comes! Take note that the sensor/potentiometer is on the back side of the bell crank assembly. After I installed the new unit on my rig, I put a bead of RTV silicone all the way around the gap where the pot is. IMHO I think that high pressure car wash spray goes through the gap and into the pot, ruining it. Best place to get a new one has been Transitowne Dodge in NY...buy it online and save $$...ask for Judy.

 

If your in North Texas, the best price I found was from Cummins Southern Plains. $336 and about 20 minutes.

 

you can get the bell crank assembly on ebay brand new for 160.

here is the item number 8027240613..


Would that sensor cause any transmission problems and speedo problems?

 

I've never heard of it causing any problems like that...just the "dead pedal" syndrome. I would be careful to be sure you're getting the most updated version if buying on eBay; there have been several MOPAR updates that I've run into myself.

 

Re--setting the apps will correct any shifting problems caused by it...Usually even if it's on it's way out.

Your tranny is shifted by your computer.
Your fueling is controlled by your computer (not your foot).
Your apps sensor is what tells the computer where your foot is so it can fool you and tell your engine to speed up and your tranny to shift, etc., etc.,

Every potentiometer (there are 2 in your apps) has a slightly different curve from idle to max. (the in between idle and max is where your truck is most of the time).

Your computer has to learn that curve. (so re-set your apps).

As your apps potentiometers wear.... their curves change a bit, they gain slighty more resistance at any given point, hence, your computer needs to re-learn the difference between the two curves once in a while, and the curves themselves, although, if there were only one potentiometer in your apps, it wouldn't. It would either be "bad" or "good" ...never "needing to be reset".

Your computer shifts your tranny, All I know, is if it ever acts like your truck is "hunting" for the right gear (up and down and up and down), it is actually your computer that is doing the hunting, I believe, because your computer , once it shifts up, figures out that the param4eters for that gear are to high and so shifts back down, Once it's back down, it thinks it's ready to go back up and and that's how it starts out.

re-set your apps. It's much easier to do first, than making sure your tranny is OK by taking it apart etc.,

 

By the way, I would not buy a used bell crank apps assembly unless I had certain knowledge that it had almost nO miles on it.

I got mine NEW on ebay for between 200 and 300, but I already had one that was going out, so why would take a chance on a new one being any better.

 

how do you reset your apps?


also i replaced the speed sensor and tranny sensor and the abs light and brake light is still on.


thanks

 

Resetting the apps is in the "frequently asked questions" section....that's how I learned how. But,,,from MEMORY...and I'm getting old and faulty.

Set your brake
unhook your battery negatives
turn your key to the on position so the computers will drain their residual power
leave the key on like that for MINIMUM 1/2 hour (I would go at least an hour or two...if the time is too short, your computer will already use it's last settings instead of starting fresh again).
Turn the key off and hook your batteries back up
turn the key to the on position
push the accellerator slowly all the way to the floor and back
turn the key off,
You are done, close the hood, unlatch the parking break, and hope that was the problem..


you should really get the instructions from the frequently asked questions section,kl,,, old dudes like us know how to do it but rarely are good at telling someone else how to do it.