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Do the fuse and relay test first... might be something that simple.
Do not drop the pan at first, use the solenoid connector on the transmission to check the ohms of the solenoids. (If good you know it's the wiring outside the trans, if bad you need to drop the pan and go in there.)
thanks alpine, so your saying unplug the 8 pin plug from the trans and test the pins ( for the solenoids) from there ? ( the trans) If so, any idea which of the 8 are for what solenoid? I’m guessing I’d have to check the pins in pairs ?
The pinout is in the factory service manual- and the CD version is only 35 US$... a very good investment on these trucks!
A check from the top side would be an OHM measurement between Pin87 on the Trans control relay and Pin 8 on the connector C2 on the PCM. (Governor pressure solenoid~ 31Ohm) and to Pin 11 (Torque converter clutch~31Ohm) and 21(overdrive) on C2
At the trans connector there should be about 31Ohms between Pin1 and pin6 and between 1 and 7
If you have the correct values at the trans but not from the top your wiring is buggered
Alpine, thank you so much for taking the time to help me as well as many other members on here. Your knowledge and tips make understanding these trucks a lot more simpler. Helps keep our trucks away from the dodge dealer which some of us can’t afford. I’m going to look into the service manual purchase as you suggest . I’ll update with results this weekend .
Well, for me it was that shipping the truck from Austria to the USA to a dodge dealer would have been cost prohibitive
At this moment I think that genos garage has the manuals for a nice price, and they also have a lot of good stuff for repairs.
And I never had shipping problems with them, not so with other companies..
I like to help folks, and I really like it if I get some feedback when I suggest to check something.
Why I always suggest to get the factory service manual for your year of the truck is because the wiring and some other stuff changed over the years, and I have an FSM for my 98.5, and can access one for a 97 (a friend's truck) but if you have a different year my suggestion could be wrong about pin numbers, wire colors etc.
I took a look tonight , I pulled the plug out and tried a mirror, my phone but I couldn’t see the pins enuff to clip on to with my alligator clips . It’s almost like you need a second plug to use just for measuring . I’m wondering if I can use a skinny paper clip or a pin and go in from the back of the plug like when I calibrated my tps ?
I usually use some insulated ferrules that I crimp onto a test wire.
I crimp just one end and leave the test wire out of the other end, so I have a female end that I can insert into the plug.
Going in from the back of the plug is not preferable here, the rubber seals get damaged and the connector will corrode.
I do also have the remains of a set of Deutsch connectors. On those I have some test wires directly on the female pin and the pin is covered in thin shrink tube all over the outside.
Ok .....so I did Alpines tests on pins 1-6 & pins 1-7......pins 1-7 proved 28 ohms and 1-6 was open . I already purchased the part so for the 3rd time I tore into the transmission pan again. I did prettty much the same repair as in the link I provided a few posts back . The only casualty was the governor pressure solenoids connector clip was paper thin ( half the thickness as the original ) and it snapped as I pried it back. So I had to run a tiny drill bit through the plastic on the solenoid and feed the smallest zip tie though then over the connector clip to pull it in spot keep it from popping out sometime. Filled it up with fluid , started the motor , put it in drive and instantly I felt the 1st gear engage . Took it for a zip and all gears, up shifts, down shifts are back ! ������
it’s been so long since I had gears, kinda feel like the shifts are a little delayed. But it could be me. ��*♂️. Bottom line , it’s fixed. I can’t thank everyone enuff for helping . To change all 3 sensors and fluid and gaskets , around $500. ( canadian����) so glad I’m a member on this forum . Thanks again everyone , and any questions if your truck is doing this same kinda thing , just ask and I’ll try and help where I can.
If it's like on mine you should take care that you don't have grit in the adjuster before you start moving the clip- they tend to break if forced.
You will need to slide clip A to be able to move D-
With the go pedal at idle the arm C will be in curb idle position. Unclip B from C and see if the cable is adjusted so that B and C are in the same position.
If the cable pulls back you tell the transmission you give it more juice than you actually do, leading to delayed upshifts from 1st to 3rd gear in D.
If the cable has a lot of slack you tell the tranny that you don't give it much juice while yelling "go go go" at the engine. This leads to premature upshifts and too low line pressure to hold the torque you actually feed into the transmission. This often results in a burnt up trans.
The shift rpm depend on load- so different axle ratio, tire size, weight etc will be factors on stock trucks... and I think it's about 18 years ago that I last drove a stocker...
Nevertheless- quick check- engine off, go pedal released- unclip B from C - does the cable try to pull B away from C - cable too short, delayed upshift.
Is there slack in the cable when B and C are together- cable too long, early upshifts, insufficient pressure.
10-18-2018, 09:57 AM
