When I repaired the leak on my VE pump I had to remove the fuel screw, I measured the distance from the head to the shoulder of the nut so I could get it back where it was.

When I put it back together I returned it to where I think it was. Anyhow I gave it 1 extra turn just because.
There seems to be more power but there is actually less haze under full throttle now.
How many turns can you normally turn this screw before runaway is an issue?

How does the shop come up with a baseline setting to start from when they rebuild the pump? Is it all flow and pressures the screw is set to?

Also what temperatures should I see pre-turbo?
I was coming home tonight on the freeway and going up a slight grade it hit 1300* @ about 80 MPH as soon as I backed off the throttle it dropped back to around 1000 almost instantly.

I have not had a chance to check this pulling any considerable weight uphill yet.

Where is the critical level and for how long could I be able to keep it here?

I still have the stock turbo but the HTT Stage IV is on the horizon.

I have noticed that any horsepower increase I do to my engine seems to only last for 24 hours.








Then I need more.

Jim

 

My guess is that a certain CC of fuel on the flow bench with a certain pop-pressure yields X HP at the flywheel. The only way to get a baseline is with an engine dyno and a lot of trial and error. Once the #'s are solidified, all a pump tech has to do is match the output on the flow bench with the engine manufacturers specs...I think.


Oh, 1300 is ok for short bursts, but 1250 is a safe sustainable temp, according to Cummins. I give my pyro a generous 150 degree handicapp in either direction when towing, just to be safe. I never sustain over 1100 with a load on. Playing on the street, I don't even watch the gauge.

 

Don't ya hate that?

That's my understanding of it as well, but the pumps are set up all over the map on stock trucks. Some trucks just run stronger than others.