1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

what kind of power

Old Apr 28, 2008 | 09:50 PM
  #16  
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info please, i'm going to get a new clutch tomarrow, the place i found has both in stock so i can get eaither one.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:15 AM
  #17  
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I don't know the specifics of the math, but there's a lot more surface area on a 13'' clutch and there's something about the increased damping ability as well, though again, I'm fuzzy on the details. The cast pressure plate is a monster compared to the cheap stamped ones on the 12.25'' models. You simply cannot get more clutch for the money. A conFe would be the next natural step and that ain't no 400 dollar clutch.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #18  
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how about a full ceramic disk?
or clutches in the $500 range
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #19  
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At this point (ready to buy) I would call Peter at south bend and speak with him. Ask the same questions you've asked here and see what he recommends. Be honest with your intended use and intended RWHP goals and he will steer you in the right direction. The only thing left to do is to do it
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:03 PM
  #20  
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i think i found what i am going to get, still have to talk to the friction supply house alittle more but they have a full ceramic heavy duty center hub, thats only $535
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 04:37 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Alwaysworking
what makes the 13 better than the 12.25?
The center on a 13" clutch is much stronger. There are 12" clutches that will hold the power you make, but you will bust the center out of them towing. Heck, I broke the center out of a 12" clutch and I've never had a trailer hooked to my truck.

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:45 PM
  #22  
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got a new clutch today and it is a 12.25 but the hub looks a lot stroger than the one in the pic, will see i guess, the place i bought it from said it was the best for what i am doing, and didn't recomend going full ceramic, do to the fact you cannon inch around with them, if it breaks, i'll take it back and tell them it wasn't strong enough but for under $300 i figured it was worth a shot.
and also i have the 12.25 in now and towed with it but much after i turned up the fuel, just a couple of short trips.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:51 PM
  #23  
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Kids just don't wanna listen.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:53 PM
  #24  
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i bought it before he answerd but it is a place that knows there products so will find out if they are right.
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Old May 2, 2008 | 11:05 PM
  #25  
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well i pulled it apart today so what else should i do while it's apart?
rear main seal was not to long ago and looks fine.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 05:53 PM
  #26  
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Have the flywheel resurfaced, ABSOLUTELY replace the throwout bearing, and replace the bronze bushing in the flywheel.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #27  
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flywheel done, the rest of the parts came with the kit,
question does anyone know what the tourqe spec is for the 5/16 bolts that hold the pressure plate? i think my book said 20 ft lbs is that right?
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Old May 4, 2008 | 12:19 AM
  #28  
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well i got everything in but the drive lines and a few other things so i might start on the other truck tomarrow after i finish this one.
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Old May 4, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #29  
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this ones back on the road, anyone know what the seat in time of a stock clutch is?
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Old May 4, 2008 | 08:13 PM
  #30  
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SBC recommends 500 mile break in for their clutches.
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