yesterday actually but I changed the speedo in my gauge cluster. Mine had a broken needle and years ago my brain dead ex tried to reset the odo by twisting the push to reset ****. I bought a box full of first gen interior parts from a guy who lives just down the street in our little town. Has 2 good speedos woodgrain gauge cluster bezel, and bunch of keeper small parts. So the fun job of pulling the cluster, changing the speedo, replacing 8 burned out bulbs the job was done. Altogether and went for a test ride all the gauges,lights and info center working correctly and the speedo readind spot on according to a friendly local sheriff. So all good and kind of surprising to find first gen stuff so close.

 

Well today my wife driving my dodge put the pass window down and the window separated from the lower track. So I decided not to fix it myself since a friend works for a glass shop and will come fix it tomorrow. Pulled the door panel and looking at the speaker thought about changing them for something better. Wondering if the original radio can drive better speakers?

 

I have never had a working radio in my crewcab in the 13 years I've owned it, it's only there for the clock really, I prefer to just listen to al the noises and generally I can hear when something starts to go bad, or at least I hear something that peaks my awareness and I start to listen harder for the potential problem. And I just like listening to that cummis rattling away as I shift through the gears on the NV4500.

 

To each his own but I like a good sounding radio. With deep but not pounding bass. I've heard all the loud noises I can endure from jet engines. side pipe corvettes, dirt and street bikes, a white autocar with a hpwling trans,bracket and super gas drag racing. Everything except the autocar I wore earplugs in and it's that unit that gave me tinnitus and we were not allowed to wear ear plugs then. Mid 80s. Much as I like my cummins I've had enough diesel noise in my life.

 

I replaced the 3 parking brake cables today.
The bracket that supports the R.R. cable under the brass Y brake line fitting, which mounts to the rear axle housing was rusted so bad I couldn't reuse it.
So I used a scrap piece of wood stove pipe to make a new one.
I ran into another problem though. It appears that I'm missing a bracket to mount the cable from the pedal to! Here's some pics of the old and new support bracket.

 

I had finished the passenger side front axle, new rotor, caliper, hose & line. Started on the drivers but 3 of the hub cover allen head screws would not budge. Tried everything I could think of but fire since the locking mechanism is plastic. Ended up drilling the little buggers out and once the cap popped off they came out by hand, grrrr.

I had not been inside this hub since I got the truck 20 years and 150,000 miles ago. It was pretty dry in there, no rust but only grease in each bearing and a little in the space between.

I used BC847's sticky in addition to the FSM, real handy reference. I have a bunch of the stickies printed out and on file for stuff like this, much appreciated.

Off to the hardware store today to try and find some replacement screws but not feeling extremely lucky. Supposed to be 62* today, so good to wrench in, and was hoping to have her back on the road tonight, we'll see...

 

Wow 20 years! I'm into my front hubs every year since I can't seem to keep a set of inner hub seals together for longer than 18 months. So I usually do it before winter sets in... pull the hubs, clean and re-grease everything, new seals and slam it back together.

 

Every year?!? Have you dressed up the spindle where the rubber seal rides?

 

That's excessive, whatever is going on there.

I do mine every 5 years ? or whenever I'm replacing rotors ? The seals are always in decent shape, but I replace them anyway.

Since the inner seals are only holding grease, there's something a miss with your hubs, spindle, seal or bearings.

Not sure what it is, but I bet it's the loose nut behind the wheel.

 

Good one!!!

 

I may resemble those remarks!

I've tried every seal out there...some fail sooner than others and 18 months is the longest a set has ever lasted. Same with bearings..tried all the brands as well, never noticed a difference. Hub looks good with no visible issues, so most likely it's the spindle...slightly warped is my guess putting pressure on one side of the seal causing it to heat up and fail prematurely.

I've looked at replacing the spindles but always seem to have something else more pressing I need to spend that money on, seals and a tub of grease are cheap and I've done the job enough now that it only takes me 2-3 hours to get both sides done.

 

Took my new fuel filler cap and butchered it. How many pounds of air is safe? 15?


Tire Slime metal Schrader valve, gobs of Phil Swift's Flex Shot.

 

Did you post this in the right thread?

 

I was wondering if the seal should be lubricated with grease.

 

I think so. It's a tool to help diagnose why I keep losing prime on my truck.