Took me two days, but I was able to get the rear 1 1/8" wheel cylinders replaced for new 7/8" ones. What a job that was! For me anyways. I took advantage of the axles being off and adjusted my shoes for proper clearance.
When I asked about heat temp differences in drums, now I see why. My drivers side drum pulled right off, with out the need for bringing in the shoes. The passenger sides were slightly against the drums, so I needed to pull those in. I knew there was a reason why the temps had such a wide spread in difference.

Today, I bled out my rears, after I re installed a new brake line to my adjustable prop valve. Didn't like the crap job I did a month ago, it's been bugging me that it would for sure not meet MKnittles specs. Came out pretty good this time around

 

LOL looks good Augie.

 

Dude- dang that first picture made me dizzy! That a work in progress or the final result? Not being critical as that would be the pot calling the kettle black...

 

I was on my way home from work around 2 AM when I happen to look down at the dash and saw that I had no oil pressure,
After thinking what to do at 70 mph I thought well if the low oil light is not on that I must still have some pressure, so I pulled off the freeway and checked the dipstick and it was full so I drove on home.

Next day I connected up a mechanical test gauge to my engine and checked the gauge against the factory one in the cab.

With the engine at operating temperature:

Test Gauge.
Idling = 38-psi
Cruising RPM=58-psi

Factory gauge on dash.
Idling= first line past "L"
Cruising RPM= Past the second line (in group of 4 lines)

I found the wire was loose where it connects to the transducer, the little rubber seal is missing and the connector is not tight giving me an intermittent connection on the gauge circuit.

Anyone know the specs for the oil pressure cold and hot?
Also where can I get a replacement seal for the connector?

BTW who are you using to host your images?

Jim

 

I was looking at mine yesterday and wondering how much oil pressure I really have.

I don't know the specs but yours is constant with a couple guys that posted with the same problem. idle around 40PSI cruising around 60PSI.

 

Your readings are typical. Spec is 13 psi minimum at idle, 30 psi. minimum running. Relief is usually about 60 psi. Below freezing it will normally go higher than that.

Both the sending unit and gauge on these machines are less than precission.

 

LOL! I know, man, now that I have another firstGen that is bone stock, I never realized how much room there is to get to things. The engine compartment, drivers side, on the truck in that pic is so full of hoses and components. Hoses from the recent Hydroboost conversion, and components to organize things. I don't want to say wires, cause I try and keep all those organized and loomed.
If I were to describe my engine compartment to someone that knew these folks, I would say it's got a touch of a little Jim Layne, TCows, and MKnittles rigs, as I've sourced a lot of my ideas thru these "pioneers".
About the only difficult item to get to, should the time come, is replacement of the fuel filter. One of these days, I'll move it and make a remote mount for easier access.
But to answer your question, it's basically done, but also a work in progress. It's done when funds are down, and a work in progress as funds allow. How's that for an answer? I believe that most folks that own a 1stGen, would agree to that one, LOL!

 

Jim:

According to my FSM for the 89 the minimum pressures at normal operating temp. are 10 psi at idle and 30 psi at full speed and load.

The same thing happened to me with the oil pressure gauge. I was driving along and noticed it was at zero or below but no light. I pulled over immediately and checked things out. After wiggling the plug the gauge worked again. When I got home I stuck a jewelers screwdriver in and gently tightened the connector leaves. Been working ever since.

Incidentally from the drawing in the FSM it looks like the ticks on the gauge correspond to 10 psi each so that the first tick off of zero is 10 psi and the third is 30 psi. Of course this is approximate.

Edwin

 

Jim, get yourself an Autometer oil pressure gauge. They're not that expensive, and really super easy to plumb in, mount the sending unit somewhere in the engine compartment, and only wire is inside the cab. That way no worries, as we now know these factory sending units can run amuck. Only difficult part, would be locating a spot inside the cab to mount your gauge.
My sending unit went bad not too long ago after 10 years, and O'rileys had them on their shelves.
As soon as my truck gets back on the road, I'll post back here what my guage reads, if it helps.
I know everyone gets hung up on the big three, including myself, when it comes to gauges'. Oil pressure, along with coolant temp, should be up there in importance. I personally don't have a coolant temp guage. One day, though.

 

Tapped into the extra port on top of the oil filter housing, and this is how I mounted the sending unit.

 

Geesh,

Hey Mknittle ! Look at all those relays, and spagetti of different, unrecognizable wires ! Oh the travesty that someone would defile one of these old heaps of diesel loving...


Oh, I think I needs to go lie down for a while..

 

My OP ALWAYS runs between the first and second tick. At idle, it's near the first, at full speed (oh, somewhere around 230 MPH ), it's right at the second tick.

Lots of ticking going on lately....

Tick, tick, tick, tick, tick............... BOOM!


Ah ha..... I Kill you !



Reminds me of my avatar, eh ?

 

Started working on the kingpins... ugh.

 

Opportune time to replace wheel bearings, U-joints, all seals, and brake pads and rotors, if needed.

 

Put a new speed sensor on the getrag as the original along with the brand new $100 reduction box apparently according to the odometer fell off 3.2 miles north of St. George, Utah.