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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I recently built a winch bumper for mine, about $60 in scrap steel, works great. one guy even asked were I bought it, which is a nice compliment to anything home built. more photos in my album.
Used mine to bring a 21' long trellis home from work.
It was from the model house of a job site were working at. Houses are all built and models were sold.
This was in front of the garage, which was set up as the sales office.
We gutted the garage, the concrete company busted up the driveway and I pulled the trellis out with the forklift and asked the Super what the plans were for it. He said Pay someone to take it away, I said I'll do it for free!
Used mine to bring a 21' long trellis home from work.
It was from the model house of a job site were working at. Houses are all built and models were sold.
This was in front of the garage, which was set up as the sales office.
We gutted the garage, the concrete company busted up the driveway and I pulled the trellis out with the forklift and asked the Super what the plans were for it. He said Pay someone to take it away, I said I'll do it for free!
1/ The ZDDP being essential is a myth propagated after a few bad batches of gasser camshafts.
2/ ZDDP only makes a difference at high temps; generally higher than diesel oils reach.
3/ CJ-4 offers better protection, especially with ULSD hitting piston rings/piston tops.
4/ Yes, Amsoil HDD, AMO & AME are 3 high zinc CI-4+ flavors within that brand. Good for extended oil changes using a full synthetic filter/bypass filtration; otherwise, save your money if changing every year.
5/ CI-4+ has a higher starting TBN is all; makes for longer oil changes under ideal conditions.
6/ The cat con issue is overblown - with the amount of blowby oil needed to harm a cat, the engine has other issues.
Originally Posted by jimbo486
I'll do my best!
ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) is an additive that is critical to the protection and lifespan of flat tappet cam engines and other components. Especially, but not only, for those running heavier valve springs. This particular oil has a ZDDP concentration of 2400ppm which plenty sufficient for a flat tappet cam engine and well above the concentration levels of today's CJ-4 rated lubricants.
From my research, if one wanted to boost a CJ-4 rated lubricant with a ZDDP additive, expect to pay around $10-15 for only a mere 3-5oz. container. However, dependent upon the volume of oil in the pan, you'll only need to add one container per oil change but that practice should remain consistent; every oil change. That can add up over time.
Power Driven Diesel's ZDDP-boosted conventional oil is $6 per quart or $70 per case of 12 quarts. Their full synthetic 15W-40 is about $10 per quart or $126 per case of 12 quarts.
Other good, high-zinc oils to choose from are Brad Penn (Penn Grade 1), Joe Gibbs (Driven) and Schaeffer. These oils have been around for decades and are spoken very highly of by those with competition engines; sled pulling, drag racing, etc. These oils are a bit more expensive than PDD's conventional oil. Expect to pay around $10 or more per quart for these as they are either full- or semi-synthetic formulas.
I'm not going to attempt to sell anybody on this product but I've done hours of research of many oils. Comparing Shell Rotella and the likes, all now are only refined to a CJ-4 rating and therefore have zinc additive levels that don't even come close to the oils mentioned above.
Amsoil has racing and marine oil which is said to have high levels of zinc as well but I couldn't come up with any information to prove so.
FWIW, Zach Hamilton personally runs Joe Gibbs, Rotella Synthetic or Schaeffer in his vehicles. This wasn't necessarily a recommendation but a starting point for the research.
The only reason I chose PDD's oil is because I'll be using it during the break-in for my engine and a high-zinc oil is highly recommended at least. Most break-in specific oils will have high levels of the zinc additive in them for that reason. Since the typical break-in period is about 1,000 miles, the pill for PDD's oil is a little easier to swallow. After all my research, I'm still undecided about switching to Penn after the break-in or to continue with PDD's.
I would run one of these oils in any engine up to 2007 without after-treatment (DPF, Urea injection) and only if the catalytic converter has been removed and can at least be reinstalled for inspections or emissions testing. The high zinc can foul these after-treatment components very quickly. As some of you may have an idea, those components are very expensive.
Pulled the flatbed off of my truck a couple of days ago, getting ready to put a regular box and a canopy back on. I don't haul hay anymore, and I want to be able to use the truck for road trips and camping out of more easily.
Pressure washed all the filth and grime off of the frame and fuel tank today, hopefully will get the new box put on next week.
Pulled the flatbed off of my truck a couple of days ago, getting ready to put a regular box and a canopy back on. I don't haul hay anymore, and I want to be able to use the truck for road trips and camping out of more easily.
Pressure washed all the filth and grime off of the frame and fuel tank today, hopefully will get the new box put on next week.
