I use that same tub, J, for my oil changes. Recently I've been eyeing that 24 quart streamlined one from Tractor Supply. O'rileys carries the same one. Around $35. Cool thing about it is when the cycle of scheduled fluid changes for oil and ATF meet up, I could drain out both. Downside is weight once it's full. I imagine the newbies at the Napa's and O'rileys would probably hate those, as they seem to be the ones handed the task of emptying out oils for recycle.
Now, JMartin, the mess you hate when removing that oil filter. What I'm about to suggest may require me to put my flame suit on, but here goes anyway: I've done this to all my vehicles, including the wife's Honda. Once the oil is starting to drain out upon removal of the plug, I hop in the vehicle and start it up and let it idle for no more than 8 seconds. Gone 10 a couple of times on the Dodge. Then, when I yank out that oil filter, no oil spewing out. The filter is either empty, or 3/4 empty. Never had problems with that at all, and I've been doing it for years. I've even done it an hour later when all the oil has drained out of the pan. Those times I only a 5 second count.
Anyone here look into that oil drain system that Genos Garage carries? The one where you never have to remove a drain plug; you just thread on a hose that pushes up onto a check valve type deal that permanently replaces your drain plug? Been using that for years, also. Have that system on all my rigs. That system is slick, especially when you decide to take oil samplings for an oil analysis. No wrenching, rounded off drain plugs, thread stripping, nothing. Whoever came up with that design is
I know someone will comment on the magnet benefit of a drain plug. Well, to adjust for that, I found filter wraps that have earth magnet strips on them. They wrap around your oil filters and trap any metal type particles in the filter. They are built well. Can't remember where I got those. Have those on both trucks, at every filter.

 

trying to get me going again?

 

JFonder, I Haven't forgot about your PM to me about the front grille emblem dimensions for placement. I am currently in pack up mode, to head back down south for work starting Monday. About the only thing on my mind, other than the feelings of uncertainty by being off for 10 weeks, is if any critters got into my trailer and left a trail of turds. Hopefully no tree branches punctured the top, either.
Once I'm situated, sometime next week, I'll get that sketch finalized and I'll post it on the normal forums, that way all can benefit.

Sure am going to miss sleeping in my own bed. Been nice being home with the woman and my 2 Shepards, watching antennae TV.

 

no worries, like i said, don't even have the new grille on and can glue letters on at any time. appreciate you!

 

just thought i'd share a laugh with everyone.

 

I just let it all run down the driveway.

-Niemand

 

The vertical oil filter on the 12V seem really easy to remove and then replace with an almost full new filter cleanly to me.
I usually only make a few drops on the newspaper I lay on the floor if things go as they should.

 

I wrench the filter just loose enough so I can turn it by hand. Then I pull a zip lock bag over it and turn it out. All the spill is in the bag.

I fill the new one with oil before I spin it on.

 

I also use a 5 gallon bucket. Just have to drive up in some ramps and level the back out with a floor jack and jack stands. It's a hassle but we all have our preferences. The crew will be easy though to make up for the D350. I'll be able to just slide it under there. Love your way of taking of the filter Mr. Martin. I will remember that next time.

 

My favorite response to any topic, ever.

 

I've been working on disassembly of my engine for the past few days. From what I can see, the head gasket didn't fail from excess boost pressure or advanced timing. It appears to be just a failure from a coolant passage seal next to cylinder #5 on the exhaust side.

Between #5 and #6 is where the leak made itself known.





The suspected coolant passage next to #5.



Block or bottom side of the gasket. It looks as though the coolant pushed out towards the rear and followed the fire ring around before going external below the exhaust runner. I guess some of the seal material missing would explain why I've occasionally seen small orange flakes in the coolant in the overflow bottle.



Flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate assemblies removed along with the transmission adapter.





Strange finding the rear main seal with some pieces missing. However, it didn't leak.

 

While not the proper way to check piston protrusion but it gives an estimate. Hamilton says for their cams to be truly bolt-in, piston protrusion cannot exceed .018". I'll lay a straight edge across the piston crown and check protrusion with feeler gauges to get a closer estimate.

 

few years ago I took the starter out of mine to replace the contacts and found the lip of the RMS sitting on the starter nose lol, mine did leak though.

 

I got the '93 fired up to plow out the driveway / yard.
It was only the 3rd time I have had to plow. What a wild, warm winter it has been here in VT.

 

Took a trip into Manhattan today. Drove around near central park and the village. Near 62* f.

This isn't February weather...