I understand the general concept with OEM and aftermarket single inlet feed-horns.

So what do I do with this? . . . . . .


Larger image here ~ https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...GenTwinRam.jpg

My concern is that one branch might get more than the other. Should I mount the injector just after the Hump-Hose so as to get the spray in there before the Wye? Shoot straight down (looking down from above)? Again so as to allow equal coverage of the single pipe at that point?

. . . ..


Any suggestions folks?

Thanks, BC

 

You could put the injector just before the "Y" or just before the boot on the pipe going to the IC. I would probably go with just before the "Y".

Nice intake BTW!

 

How does that crazy intake work?

I would think that if you were to put the nozzle right before the "V" it'd be all right. Altough if you wanted to do it the cool way you'd put two nozzles right before the "V", another three in each each branch and then tap six straight into the head for good measure...

You can always mix and match, correct?

 

I'd use two nozzles.

 

Were did you get that cool intake!

 

That looks like a banks twin ram. I was seriously considering getting one. I heard nothing but trash talking about banks, so I figured it wouldn't be a good idea. Do you guys think that would help with cooling down the 1 cylinder? Would that make a stock turbo cool any better?

 

We trash talk banks becuse the cool stuff he develop for are truck many years ago has been discontinued

that still build grate suff .....just not for us forgoten wons!!!!!!!!


BC847 i didn't fig it would clear the master syn or inj lines.........look like thats not the case thow.....did it req any modifying?

 

It would help cool abit better because it is much less resticitive then the stock stuff

 

It is in fact a Banks TwinRam intake.

If you know me, you know I'm not skert to build a refrigerator from an old Thomas school bus seat.

The intake itself adds no power what so ever . . . . .. at least on the surface.

What it does do is open up the bottle-neck of the OEM intake horn. At 60psig boost, the OEM version is of little consequence. But at average off idle to part throttle, the restriction becomes more apparent. We're actually acting much like a naturally aspirated engine at low, to no boost conditions. In that mode of operation, and especially when working the truck in those ranges, EGT's are higher than one might see otherwise.
And then there's that thing about cylinder number one running hotter by default as mentioned above. It seems I recall there's a boss in the air passage that gets in the way. I understand that when it comes to porting the head, that's one of the things they go after first.

Anyhoot, I'm after the added cooling effect in the lower RPMs. It allows me to add a little more fuel . . . earlier.

You won't find this readily available for our trucks. Banks makes it only for the second gens up. And it appears as of late, they may only be available for certain RV apps. Not sure about that. Regardless, they're built with an in-line pump in mind. NOT our VE. To get around that, I had the good folks at Scheid Diesel Service fold me a set of injector pipes.



Further, it allows me to run the OEM intake heaters with all the stock controls.

IMO, Banks is getting bad-mouthed by folks who don't fully understand what's going on. Back in the day when our trucks WERE the Shizzle, there were very few diesel performance parts vendors. Banks filled the bill with what we've seen. A VERY high quality product that actually works. Keep in mind, we're talking mechanical IP's here. When the electronics hit mainstream, it became relatively easy for everybody and their brother to come up with a chip that'd make more power for comparatively less money.

But there's a fly in the ointment.

Some/Most Banks products come with a CARB certification sticker. That means when the EPA has a fit and makes us remove all the non-compliant performance parts, the Banks stuff can stay.


Oh, and add two points for the kewlness factor.

 

Why not drop a quick note to Snow Performance and ask for their recommendation....you'll get the scoop right from the horeses mouth so to speak...

pb....

 

just dont tap the air horn, put it in the cooler pipe. thats my recomendation. if you feel the need to mount it in the air horn use dual nozzles.

 

K just one more Question? do you have dual intake air heaters or just one?

OK maybe one more......how much did it or would it caust to have the custom inj tubes made or buy?

 

In our stock trucks, while the heater assembly is just one assembly, it's in fact two individual heaters stacked one an top of the other. The Banks kit has you remove the heater elements from the OEM housing and install them in housings that have you end up with one heater element per intake branch.

As far as the injector pipes go, you might try finding a better equipped diesel shop locally. Talk to the mechanic so as to get a feel as to whether he's got a clue. This is important as the pipes length must be equal. Further, the internal diameter is critical to proper operation. Lacking such around my house, I farmed it out to Scheid Diesel Service. The image above is actually from their shop working on a prototype block and pump. (I have an earlier thread asking about Injector Plumbing (Link) and was considering pipes from a school bus as one member suggested).

As my main concern is equal distribution of the fog, I tend to agree that the inter-cooler pipe might be best with one nozzle. The thing with the intake manifold is that its branches fall centered on the intake plenum cover. Not centered on the cylinders. The forward branch is right on cylinder 2, and the rear branch is right on cylinder 4. In my mind, placing the injector well upstream of the Wye should afford better atomization and more uniform mixing with the charge air. Perhaps two nozzles, one in each branch may have advantages, but it seems there'd be a lot of R&D involved with getting a true uniform coverage.

I'm thinking the K.I.S.S. rule will work very well here.

Good advice reverend. But the folks at Snow might not understand as this is a CoolingMist kit. On that note though, when I ordered the kit, they asked where I heard about their product. I proudly referenced DTR. Within 15 minutes of placing my order, I saw a new DTR member spying the recent Snow/CoolingMist comparison thread (coolingmist Link to profile). Perhaps he/she will chime in here (I'll send them a link to this thread).

FedEx shows they're gonna deliver the kit today (we'll see).

Thanks for the input folks.

 

BC847 thanks for the link Injector Plumbing (Link) Grate stuff there!!!


So did you go with a bigger in side diamiter then your stock one, what size was stock?


I now that i'm kinda off the subject but INQUIRING MINDES WANT TO NOW!!!

 

They are pretty much OEM in length and ID as I didn't want the ultimate injection profile altered.


Well the kit is here. Good quick shipping. Excellent packaging.

It's hot and humid outside.

I've an aluminum tool box in the bed up against the cab. It's not one of the type that sits on the bed rails. It's actually got about six inches of space on either end.
The CoolingMist kit I got comes with a six gallon tank that's 12.28" x 15" x 8.5". It fits perfectly between the front of the beds wheel-well and my tool box. It's about the same depth as the wheel-well so I should still be able to put a full width load in the bed without the tank getting in the way. The pump should fit well in the space between the side of the tool box and the bed side-wall.
I reckon I need some 1" x 1/8" aluminum strap to mount the tank to the beds side-wall. Some kind of suitable cover for the pump, and perhaps some 1/2" EMT conduit to shield the tubing under the truck on its way to the engine bay. Black paint to hide it . . . erp! Make it match the rest of the engine.

Well, let's go see what's under the shed . . . . . . .