Water/Methanol Injector Location ?
Will an outfit like that bring the EGT down in my non-intercooled set-up??
Why the methanol in summertime temperatures??
I can see a need for it in freezing weather.
What other purpose does the methanol serve??
In summer temperatures, what would be the outcome of using plain old water??
Thanks.
Originally Posted by BearKiller
Will an outfit like that bring the EGT down in my non-intercooled set-up??
Why the methanol in summertime temperatures??
I can see a need for it in freezing weather.
What other purpose does the methanol serve??
In summer temperatures, what would be the outcome of using plain old water??
Thanks.
The water helps cool the egts and the meth also dus the same thing with i kick to boot, with straight water it can start to put the flame out!......meth kinda works like nitros! Cooles egts while getting a boost in power.
Originally Posted by BearKiller
Will an outfit like that bring the EGT down in my non-intercooled set-up??
Why the methanol in summertime temperatures??
I can see a need for it in freezing weather.
What other purpose does the methanol serve??
In summer temperatures, what would be the outcome of using plain old water??
Thanks.
20% meth gives a better cooling effect than straight water because you can run much more water/meth through the engine without quenching combustion. More spray means more heat pulled out of the air.
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
If it's not bogging you don't have enough. 

What size nozzles are you running Dave and what duy % would you estimate the pump is running at (or psi)?
@ jrussell, I'm actually very much like those in your pics above (control) with a 15 gph and a 6 gph nozzles.
Start around 17ish psig with full on at around 30ish psig. I've got the tune **** at about 7 or so.
As such I get no bang when it comes on. And watching the boost gauge, it looks like the boost jumps markedly from 20 to 35 (I'm running a manual boost controller so as to keep it all in the map). The tip of the needle on the SOTP gauge is bent.
And second to third shifts are noticeably harder.
I've not really had time to play with it. wannadiesel had suggested starting no sooner than 20psig. Dave, ya reckon I could start it at 15 or so and ramp it very aggressively on up to full on at 25 or so?
As far as the mix goes, The fella down at the Advance Auto Parts is apparently into W/M as well and was quick to say that according the the MSDS, the TroubleFree brand of windshield washer fluid was 45%.
They had it on sale for $1.68 a gallon. I went ahead and got 8 gallons for now as I wanted to run the thing. Otherwise, I've found a local fella who's selling Methanol $3.70 something an individual gallon, or $1.74 a gallon in 55 gallon lots.
Anyhoot, I've seen no change with EGTs running that stiff a mix. Pretty much 1300*F at WOT (no load).
Start around 17ish psig with full on at around 30ish psig. I've got the tune **** at about 7 or so.
As such I get no bang when it comes on. And watching the boost gauge, it looks like the boost jumps markedly from 20 to 35 (I'm running a manual boost controller so as to keep it all in the map). The tip of the needle on the SOTP gauge is bent.
And second to third shifts are noticeably harder.
I've not really had time to play with it. wannadiesel had suggested starting no sooner than 20psig. Dave, ya reckon I could start it at 15 or so and ramp it very aggressively on up to full on at 25 or so?
As far as the mix goes, The fella down at the Advance Auto Parts is apparently into W/M as well and was quick to say that according the the MSDS, the TroubleFree brand of windshield washer fluid was 45%.

They had it on sale for $1.68 a gallon. I went ahead and got 8 gallons for now as I wanted to run the thing. Otherwise, I've found a local fella who's selling Methanol $3.70 something an individual gallon, or $1.74 a gallon in 55 gallon lots.
Anyhoot, I've seen no change with EGTs running that stiff a mix. Pretty much 1300*F at WOT (no load).
You should change your tune button higher. The tune button is what changes the duty cycle of the pump or in common terms the max pressure it can put out. The more pressure the pump puts out the more flow. Let me give you an example, just for sake of argument say your nozzles put out 23 GPH at 100% duty cycle, you may only get 16 GPH if the controller is set at 7 as it makes the duty cycle lower. To change the agressiveness of the curve you can use the software. This is how fast or how slow the controller reaches its max duty cycle (determined by the tuning ****).
I know that Jrussel has commented he feels more power and lower EGTs but does not have the full performance he thinks he should get. We are working with different size nozzles to see what the optimim rating is for his vehicle.
If we determine that we need to have 2 large injectors rather than 1 large and 1 medium in our kit we will definately do that. Make those changes we talked about (set the tune at 10), you will get much greater flow.
I know that Jrussel has commented he feels more power and lower EGTs but does not have the full performance he thinks he should get. We are working with different size nozzles to see what the optimim rating is for his vehicle.
If we determine that we need to have 2 large injectors rather than 1 large and 1 medium in our kit we will definately do that. Make those changes we talked about (set the tune at 10), you will get much greater flow.
Originally Posted by BC847
@ jrussell, I'm actually very much like those in your pics above (control) with a 15 gph and a 6 gph nozzles.
Start around 17ish psig with full on at around 30ish psig. I've got the tune **** at about 7 or so.
As such I get no bang when it comes on. And watching the boost gauge, it looks like the boost jumps markedly from 20 to 35 (I'm running a manual boost controller so as to keep it all in the map). The tip of the needle on the SOTP gauge is bent.
And second to third shifts are noticeably harder.
I've not really had time to play with it. wannadiesel had suggested starting no sooner than 20psig. Dave, ya reckon I could start it at 15 or so and ramp it very aggressively on up to full on at 25 or so?
As far as the mix goes, The fella down at the Advance Auto Parts is apparently into W/M as well and was quick to say that according the the MSDS, the TroubleFree brand of windshield washer fluid was 45%.
They had it on sale for $1.68 a gallon. I went ahead and got 8 gallons for now as I wanted to run the thing. Otherwise, I've found a local fella who's selling Methanol $3.70 something an individual gallon, or $1.74 a gallon in 55 gallon lots.
Anyhoot, I've seen no change with EGTs running that stiff a mix. Pretty much 1300*F at WOT (no load).
Start around 17ish psig with full on at around 30ish psig. I've got the tune **** at about 7 or so.
As such I get no bang when it comes on. And watching the boost gauge, it looks like the boost jumps markedly from 20 to 35 (I'm running a manual boost controller so as to keep it all in the map). The tip of the needle on the SOTP gauge is bent.
And second to third shifts are noticeably harder.
I've not really had time to play with it. wannadiesel had suggested starting no sooner than 20psig. Dave, ya reckon I could start it at 15 or so and ramp it very aggressively on up to full on at 25 or so?
As far as the mix goes, The fella down at the Advance Auto Parts is apparently into W/M as well and was quick to say that according the the MSDS, the TroubleFree brand of windshield washer fluid was 45%.

They had it on sale for $1.68 a gallon. I went ahead and got 8 gallons for now as I wanted to run the thing. Otherwise, I've found a local fella who's selling Methanol $3.70 something an individual gallon, or $1.74 a gallon in 55 gallon lots.
Anyhoot, I've seen no change with EGTs running that stiff a mix. Pretty much 1300*F at WOT (no load).
Well with the start at 17, and full on at 21, with the tune **** at 10 . . . . .


No hints of bog that I can detect. It certainly pulls much harder from a rolling stop on up to 60ish. EGT's seem a small bit warmer . . . . perhaps pushing 1350*. I dunno. There's been a shooting up the road
and I don't think the cops would be into my new W/M kit right now.


No hints of bog that I can detect. It certainly pulls much harder from a rolling stop on up to 60ish. EGT's seem a small bit warmer . . . . perhaps pushing 1350*. I dunno. There's been a shooting up the road
and I don't think the cops would be into my new W/M kit right now.
Well ill inject my two cents once again, the 3 nozzles on my system are adjustable. it elimanates having to buy bunches of nozzles.
http://www.pnramerica.com/hydraulic/hollow.html
after a long search i settled on nozzles from this comp. mainly because a slight varied pressure varies the gph drasticly. nozzle one comes on at 12 psi, and is set to 3.5 gph at 125 psi. nozzle two comes on at 25 psi, its set to 12 gph at the same psi. although my system uses a 175 psi pump i control the pressure with voltage, at 11 volts it drops to 160 and so on. Now this voltage is controled by a tuneable box in the cab, with the box i can control max pump pressure even gph to each nozzle as i choose. the third nozzle is a towing nozzle, its 1.5 gph at 75 psi. it kicks in at 10 psi of boost, its only purpose is cool things off towing loads i shouldnt be. the last point ill make is the towing systen cant be engaged if the performance system is on, reason i want a towing system thats economical and without a kick in the butt (not its purpose).
now why did i not just buy a cooling mist system ? cause at the time tunability wasnt advanced enough for my tastes, from any of the venders, but if i had it to do now its coolingmist all the way.
http://www.pnramerica.com/hydraulic/hollow.html
after a long search i settled on nozzles from this comp. mainly because a slight varied pressure varies the gph drasticly. nozzle one comes on at 12 psi, and is set to 3.5 gph at 125 psi. nozzle two comes on at 25 psi, its set to 12 gph at the same psi. although my system uses a 175 psi pump i control the pressure with voltage, at 11 volts it drops to 160 and so on. Now this voltage is controled by a tuneable box in the cab, with the box i can control max pump pressure even gph to each nozzle as i choose. the third nozzle is a towing nozzle, its 1.5 gph at 75 psi. it kicks in at 10 psi of boost, its only purpose is cool things off towing loads i shouldnt be. the last point ill make is the towing systen cant be engaged if the performance system is on, reason i want a towing system thats economical and without a kick in the butt (not its purpose).
now why did i not just buy a cooling mist system ? cause at the time tunability wasnt advanced enough for my tastes, from any of the venders, but if i had it to do now its coolingmist all the way.
Originally Posted by jrussell
Well I added a second 15gph nozzle and still can't bog the motor. Even with the system on max at 7psi and holding the throttle at 7-10psi it won't show any signs of bogging.
What size nozzles are you running Dave and what duy % would you estimate the pump is running at (or psi)?
What size nozzles are you running Dave and what duy % would you estimate the pump is running at (or psi)?
I think they are rated at 60 psi, though, and I imagine I'm pushing more than that.The pump starts at 50% duty cycle and is at full power by the time boost hits 35 psi.
I don't think you are running enough pump pressure, it sounds like the nozzles are plenty big.
I wouldn't be injecting water/meth at that low of boost. Not enough fuel is going through the motor at that point and it is easy to put out the fire. 15 psi is the absolute minimum I would turn it on, the smaller your turbine housing the later you are going to need to turn on the spray.
Originally Posted by BC847
Well with the start at 17, and full on at 21, with the tune **** at 10 . . . . .
No hints of bog that I can detect. It certainly pulls much harder from a rolling stop on up to 60ish. EGT's seem a small bit warmer . . . . perhaps pushing 1350*. I dunno.
No hints of bog that I can detect. It certainly pulls much harder from a rolling stop on up to 60ish. EGT's seem a small bit warmer . . . . perhaps pushing 1350*. I dunno.
From what I've heard recently the water meth works best when ported directly over the intake heater grid( or as close as possible). Dyno results have proven up to a 20hp increase over any other configuration.
Course, this guy only designed turbo and intake sytems, what does he know!
Rick
Course, this guy only designed turbo and intake sytems, what does he know!
Rick
Originally Posted by runamuk
From what I've heard recently the water meth works best when ported directly over the intake heater grid( or as close as possible). Dyno results have proven up to a 20hp increase over any other configuration.
Most likely so as there should be less fall-out or loss due to impingement along the intake tract.

As with any engine, this amounts to a number of compromises. Direct injection would be ideal but impractical here. Injection in each horn might be second choice, but balancing the fog to each cylinder becomes an issue or so it seems to me.
Placing the injector(s) as I have should address the majority of uniform distribution (ignoring fall-out).
I can't help but imagine that evaporation of the fall-out sorta balances things in the end. I suppose the question there might be does this hold true when comparing steady-state operation versus short-burst operation as with my stop light racing (as it were).
I think I need to up-size the smaller of the two injectors I'm currently running. That's assuming a duty-cycle of 10 would make the engine just begin to bog. Were that the case, I could back off the duty-cycle a bit to fine tune it. Hmmm . . . . . .. ?
@ wannadiesel, yup Dave, though I have not read it myself, the guy at Advance says it's 45% according to the MSDS. I confess I might have got a little on my hand when filling the tank. It felt VERY much like rubbing alcohol. In addition to the poison labeling, it's also labeled as flammable.
I'm not sure at what percent blend the liquid becomes flammable (as expected, all are flammable to a degree when fogged).
And please don't hold me to the EGT's I'm seeing right off. We're only talking a couple-a-three passes just now.
BC847 uhm huh ?
I tried half a dozen locations including nozzles in the intake plate. i saw no hp diff on the dyno, and in WWII on the fighter craft if inj point was to close to valves it caused damage, now i have no idea if this could damage ours.
And the secret to the system working right is pressure, in my opinion anything less than 125 is way to little and adding multiple nozzles this needs to be accounted for.
I tried half a dozen locations including nozzles in the intake plate. i saw no hp diff on the dyno, and in WWII on the fighter craft if inj point was to close to valves it caused damage, now i have no idea if this could damage ours.
And the secret to the system working right is pressure, in my opinion anything less than 125 is way to little and adding multiple nozzles this needs to be accounted for.







