im just looking in theory. but 35 gallons of #2 or more if i wanted bigger. i would buy some kind of sump i can punt in the bottom of the tank run an air dog 150 filter or a holly black with a good filter. i would drill a whole in the truck bed and run every thing right on through to the frame all 1/2 in lines. i could weld some kind of bettter fill cap on to the top. everything added would be welded to the tank. in theory it work fine in my mind but i want to know your thoughts ideas or if this is just a big no no.
thanks

 

If done, consider having the inside of the tank cleaned well and coated with some sort of fuel rated coating. The only thing that I've thought of with a setup like this would be the possiblity of sediment and any debris getting inside the tank. I suppose you could put a fine screen around the sump but you'd want to inspect it every once in a while to be sure there are no blockages.

I had given this same idea some thought. Essentially build a big box with a sloped bottom either to the center or driver side for a "sump" function, some baffling to cut down on movement of the volume of fuel, a filler neck on the side near the top or directly on top with a locking cap and an inspection panel bolted and sealed to the top, an electric level detector with an Ohm range matching the factory sending unit (so wiring can simply be spliced and connected to the factory gauge) and gravity feeding an electric pump of some sort with an isolation ball valve.

All that to replace the factory tank strapped to the frame rail.

How many gallons would be up to you and whether you'd want to spend that kind of money on a complete fill-up. To each his own, of course. I've still given it some thought, but only keeping the factory tank and just having a 30gal. tank/toolbox combo (reserve) using a solenoid valve on the outlet line which would be connected to the factory filler neck tube for on-the-go fill-ups .

 

I have a 45G slip tank which gravity feeds my stock tank with a solenoid, works great. I only use the slip tank to fill the stock tank and then shut off the solenoid. Takes about 30min to fill stock tank with the flip of a switch.

 

you are making it harder than it needs to be. we weld a fitting on the bottom of the tank and cut a hole in the bed where the fitting is. next a ball valve needed only to change filter, a clear sediment bowl then a 2 micron filter next to the filler neck on the stock tank. when you see the stock tank gauge start to drop, time to fill aux tank.

 

I have a very well built 91 gallon tank with 4 inches of tool box on top. It also gravity feeds the main, but it would be very easy to make it feed directly. It was made out of Florida from aluminum and was only around 800 bucks delivered to my house in Phoenix. I mounted it 6 inches above the bed so that I could slide things underneath and not lose so much of my bed. It gives me around 2200 miles of range.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...8&d=1279465822

Mark

 

That's what I was thinking, just don't open the factory fill cap if the aux. tank has fuel in it!

Would the return need to be plumbed to the top of the aux. tank?

 

I've got and AERO in bed 45 USG verticle tank that I use all the time - works great. It is plumbed through 2 mechanical valves that sit right next to the drivers seat so I can shift on the fly. The fuel sender operates via a SPDT switch and reads off the Dodge OEM guage which reads both OEM & AUX tanks. The feed lines run through the bed and connect to the existing OEM lines. It gives me over 1200 miles running solo or about 900 to 1000 miles towing depending where I run.

Bob

 

Carl, your fuel looks to be the wrong color!

 

A little tranny fluid in it for lubricity maybe.......

It's unclear if you are planning to abandon the stock frame tank and use just this one, or if this is to be an auxiliary tank.

In any case, keep it simple. A jerry can and a piece of fuel hose will get the job done, and anything else is improvement up to the point where maintenance effort exceeds benefit.

 

i want to remove the stock tank use the transfer tanks as a main tank.

 

Why remove the stock tank?

 

one looking at truck pulling. 2 bigger tank cause of long trips with work and i dont like the ramcharger tanks and the stock tank is plastic.

 

for marf75 no the return line does not need to be touched. and of course that is red atf in the diesel. I have never pulled and would like to know more. back to your question. fass, airdog and raptor are troublesome junk. I can not figure out what engine you have but here is my suggestion if you want to do away with the stock tank. plumb the aux tank as I did in the pix, go to a brushless pump like a fuelab or carter's new brushless next to a filter setup like this one shown in pix and connect to existing feed line. return line will connect to the drain plug on the tank. good fill caps are available without welding. pm me if you want part numbers. if you have a cp3 you will not need a pump.

 

I've seen set-ups where the bottom outlet from the in-bed tank is the filler neck for the OEM tank.

IMO, that is a slick set-up and it puts the stock 30+ gallon tank in conjuction with a ~50 gallon tank.
When the gauge starts to move, you have ~400 miles of driving left.

Another addition I have been seeing is using a RamCharger fuel tank conversion, which is ~ 35 gallons.

Imagine! A potential 3-tank combination that nets you ~120 gallons of on-board fuel and virtually NO wasted space from normal!

Mark.