Update, long post
08-16-2006, 06:00 AM
#1
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Update, long post
Well, I have had my truck 3 weeks and have about 2000 miles on it. So far most things are good.
We had 3.65" of rain here in WNC last Friday night, which flooded the drivers side floor board. I have no idea where it came from. So, I pulled the carpet and cleaned the floorboard. There is some surface rust in the floorboard, so I am cleaning that and applying rubberized matting. Picked up a nice HX-35W, needs a wastegate acutator. Traded some '93 s10 blazer wheels for some older ferd wheels with 265-75-16 D rated tires.
I blew compressed air in the A/C drain tube, it helped some but still leaks in the floor some. I noticed that condensation pours in a small stream from the drain. Is the normal? much more than all the other cars/trucks I have had.
Rear diff gets pretty hot, so much that you do not want to keep your hand on it. Fluid level is good, but I do not think it has been changed. Also, under slow cornering, the rear tires bind/bite as you can feel it in the truck. Is this normal? 3.54 rear.
Took the first 450 miles trip, went up the Sulada grade on I-26 to Asheville. Went up well but the temps were rising. What do I need to do to the coolent system?
Pulled a 3000 lb car yesterday, I left the truck in OD. Is this ok. With the OD off the truck will only do about 55 mph at high rpm.
Where is the best place to mount a trans temp senor? I have some mopar +4 ATF ready to go.
And exhaust, I am not going to bomb this one out, yet. I will just do the BHAF, exhaust housing, etc. Will a mandrel bent 3" exhaust be ok? Also, has anyone made a heat sheild around the exhaust side/down pipe?
Oh well, enough for now.....
We had 3.65" of rain here in WNC last Friday night, which flooded the drivers side floor board. I have no idea where it came from. So, I pulled the carpet and cleaned the floorboard. There is some surface rust in the floorboard, so I am cleaning that and applying rubberized matting. Picked up a nice HX-35W, needs a wastegate acutator. Traded some '93 s10 blazer wheels for some older ferd wheels with 265-75-16 D rated tires.
I blew compressed air in the A/C drain tube, it helped some but still leaks in the floor some. I noticed that condensation pours in a small stream from the drain. Is the normal? much more than all the other cars/trucks I have had.
Rear diff gets pretty hot, so much that you do not want to keep your hand on it. Fluid level is good, but I do not think it has been changed. Also, under slow cornering, the rear tires bind/bite as you can feel it in the truck. Is this normal? 3.54 rear.
Took the first 450 miles trip, went up the Sulada grade on I-26 to Asheville. Went up well but the temps were rising. What do I need to do to the coolent system?
Pulled a 3000 lb car yesterday, I left the truck in OD. Is this ok. With the OD off the truck will only do about 55 mph at high rpm.
Where is the best place to mount a trans temp senor? I have some mopar +4 ATF ready to go.
And exhaust, I am not going to bomb this one out, yet. I will just do the BHAF, exhaust housing, etc. Will a mandrel bent 3" exhaust be ok? Also, has anyone made a heat sheild around the exhaust side/down pipe?
Oh well, enough for now.....
08-16-2006, 07:26 AM
#2
Registered User
Wow, tons of questions! 
If you have cab mounted clearance lights, check there for leaks. Other than that get out the garden hose and start spraying with someone in the cab.
The A/C pulls a lot of moisture out of the air. A small stream of water is normal from the evaportator drain. Try sealing it where it engages the duct work.
It sounds like you may have some form of locking rear end. To be sure, jack both rear wheels off the ground and put the tranny in neutral. Trun one of the rear wheels in either direction. If the other wheel rotates the same direction you have positraction or a locker. If the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction the rear end is open. As for the heat, I run a synthetic gear lube. Amsoil sevear duty 85w/90. It has less fluid friction and lubricates better than dyno oil thus it runs cooler. Don't forget the friction modifier to make the positrac work. You can get a finned cover that has an increased capacity if you are worried about the heat for about $300.
I tow in OD all the time. There is a temp sensor in the line going to the cooler. Once the temp climbs to about 280 degrees the tranny automatically cuts out the OD. I mounted my temp probe in the same line near the factory probe using a Swagelock tee.
You may want to check to see if you are getting full travel of your throttle. This is a wear point that is easily overlooked. Especially the bushings on the bracket near the IP. If you are getting full throttle you may want to go to a 3200 rpm governor spring. I really like what that did for my truck. 55 in direct drive sounds a little slow to me.
One of the first things I did was to upgrade my exhaust. I used the factory down pipe that has a heat shield and went to 4 inch just after the second elbow. I tried straight pipe but found the racket a lot too much. I installed a glass pack and that worked for a while but when the holes plugged up with soot it sounded like it wasn't there. I am now running a muffler that I bought from NAPA that was designed for a 855 Cummins in a school bus. It still sounds sweet but without the racket. You really want to stay away from the 3 inch exhaust system unless you are going to remain bone stock. With the HX35W you will need the bigger pipe.
Engine temps are going to rise when it is under a load and in warmer weather. That is what it is supposed to do. The factory gagues are for the most part unreliable but according the the factory service manual as long as the temp doesn't remain within an 1/8th inch of the high end of the normal range you are OK. The normal range is the area that is encompassed buy the rocker in the middle of the gauge. Operation outside this range is not recommended.
I have a dually so I can't comment on wheel selection. I hope this helps, have fun.
If you have cab mounted clearance lights, check there for leaks. Other than that get out the garden hose and start spraying with someone in the cab.
The A/C pulls a lot of moisture out of the air. A small stream of water is normal from the evaportator drain. Try sealing it where it engages the duct work.
It sounds like you may have some form of locking rear end. To be sure, jack both rear wheels off the ground and put the tranny in neutral. Trun one of the rear wheels in either direction. If the other wheel rotates the same direction you have positraction or a locker. If the other wheel rotates in the opposite direction the rear end is open. As for the heat, I run a synthetic gear lube. Amsoil sevear duty 85w/90. It has less fluid friction and lubricates better than dyno oil thus it runs cooler. Don't forget the friction modifier to make the positrac work. You can get a finned cover that has an increased capacity if you are worried about the heat for about $300.
I tow in OD all the time. There is a temp sensor in the line going to the cooler. Once the temp climbs to about 280 degrees the tranny automatically cuts out the OD. I mounted my temp probe in the same line near the factory probe using a Swagelock tee.
You may want to check to see if you are getting full travel of your throttle. This is a wear point that is easily overlooked. Especially the bushings on the bracket near the IP. If you are getting full throttle you may want to go to a 3200 rpm governor spring. I really like what that did for my truck. 55 in direct drive sounds a little slow to me.
One of the first things I did was to upgrade my exhaust. I used the factory down pipe that has a heat shield and went to 4 inch just after the second elbow. I tried straight pipe but found the racket a lot too much. I installed a glass pack and that worked for a while but when the holes plugged up with soot it sounded like it wasn't there. I am now running a muffler that I bought from NAPA that was designed for a 855 Cummins in a school bus. It still sounds sweet but without the racket. You really want to stay away from the 3 inch exhaust system unless you are going to remain bone stock. With the HX35W you will need the bigger pipe.
Engine temps are going to rise when it is under a load and in warmer weather. That is what it is supposed to do. The factory gagues are for the most part unreliable but according the the factory service manual as long as the temp doesn't remain within an 1/8th inch of the high end of the normal range you are OK. The normal range is the area that is encompassed buy the rocker in the middle of the gauge. Operation outside this range is not recommended.
I have a dually so I can't comment on wheel selection. I hope this helps, have fun.
08-16-2006, 08:14 AM
#3
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Hmm check these out!
Cowl crack fixes:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...en&onlynewfaq=1
Clean out the HVAC box:
http://ramchargercentral.com/index....howtoshow;id=45
b]Upgraded OEM Fan and Fan Clutch
Dodge has issued an updated Fan which has more twist on the blades and is lighter. If you plan on upgrading your fan clutch, I strongly suggest you also upgrade to this new fan. Again, this is an OEM component from MOPAR.
Fan- 52028653
Clutch module- 52028760
Cowl crack fixes:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...en&onlynewfaq=1
Clean out the HVAC box:
http://ramchargercentral.com/index....howtoshow;id=45
b]Upgraded OEM Fan and Fan Clutch
Dodge has issued an updated Fan which has more twist on the blades and is lighter. If you plan on upgrading your fan clutch, I strongly suggest you also upgrade to this new fan. Again, this is an OEM component from MOPAR.
Fan- 52028653
Clutch module- 52028760
08-16-2006, 09:03 PM
#4
flashgordon, have you installed the new fan and clutch pn's you listed from mopar in your 91.0 non i/c truck? did they fit?
08-16-2006, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by PapeCAT
flashgordon, have you installed the new fan and clutch pn's you listed from mopar in your 91.0 non i/c truck? did they fit?
NOPE!!!! I bought the fan and the clutch but the fan blade is to large for the fan shroud! Basicly the fan,and shroud are the same size!(the fan would just be wedged on the shroud and would never move)
I need to ether hack up the fans shroud,build a new fan shroud,modifay a intercooler radiator in my truck......with shroud,that is allso no longer avalible new, or mod a 2nt gen radiator.....witch is the route that i'm leaning to the most!
Mostly becuse you can still by the radaitor and shroud for the 2nt gen!!
I guy cam in yesterday with a 89(that he clamed to have 400,000) and evan thow it look real redneck,he ran a flex hose (2)from the upper radiator back to turbo crossover tube and then back to the radiator. it was a 2nt gen radiator and fan shroud but still had the non intercooled fan in it. It look puny with the 2nt gen shroud!
He clamed that once the truck got up to temp,it wouldn't move the needle, know matter how hard he used it and what he was pulling!
Ok a'm realy starting to run on with the mouth so i will stop now............
My plan, is to first move the radiator inlet to the drivers side of the radiator and if that dont work or don't work well enuff then i will be dueing the 2nt gen radiator and intercooler........... but thats anther story!
08-17-2006, 06:36 PM
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"Also, under slow cornering, the rear tires bind/bite as you can feel it in the truck. Is this normal? 3.54 rear."
On your dif grabbing issue... BE CAREFUL I followed the recommendations about friction additives and sort of got used to some binding on really tight corners.
My clutch pack in the limited slip was worn out and it stressed the dif so badly that I blew some spider gears thousands of miles from home.
Apparently when the friction materials are gone, the metal to metal contact grabs rather than slips. My only option was to have a shop rebuild it and the bill was frightening. It is well worth the price to have that problem fixed before it gets expensive.
There has been no noise on corners since the repair. Last time I changed the lube, I used GM's concentrate which they developed for noises in their Dana's.
On your dif grabbing issue... BE CAREFUL I followed the recommendations about friction additives and sort of got used to some binding on really tight corners.
My clutch pack in the limited slip was worn out and it stressed the dif so badly that I blew some spider gears thousands of miles from home.
Apparently when the friction materials are gone, the metal to metal contact grabs rather than slips. My only option was to have a shop rebuild it and the bill was frightening. It is well worth the price to have that problem fixed before it gets expensive.
There has been no noise on corners since the repair. Last time I changed the lube, I used GM's concentrate which they developed for noises in their Dana's.
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08-17-2006, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 91.5CTDBanks
thanks Bill, I will check into that.
the posse lube ware out, and like Bill said, causes it to jump insteed of sliding around when turning corners!
08-18-2006, 10:46 PM
#9
Adminstrator-ess
Originally Posted by Bill Tomlinson
"Also, under slow cornering, the rear tires bind/bite as you can feel it in the truck. Is this normal? 3.54 rear."
On your dif grabbing issue... BE CAREFUL I followed the recommendations about friction additives and sort of got used to some binding on really tight corners.
My clutch pack in the limited slip was worn out and it stressed the dif so badly that I blew some spider gears thousands of miles from home.
Apparently when the friction materials are gone, the metal to metal contact grabs rather than slips. My only option was to have a shop rebuild it and the bill was frightening. It is well worth the price to have that problem fixed before it gets expensive.
There has been no noise on corners since the repair. Last time I changed the lube, I used GM's concentrate which they developed for noises in their Dana's.
On your dif grabbing issue... BE CAREFUL I followed the recommendations about friction additives and sort of got used to some binding on really tight corners.
My clutch pack in the limited slip was worn out and it stressed the dif so badly that I blew some spider gears thousands of miles from home.
Apparently when the friction materials are gone, the metal to metal contact grabs rather than slips. My only option was to have a shop rebuild it and the bill was frightening. It is well worth the price to have that problem fixed before it gets expensive.
There has been no noise on corners since the repair. Last time I changed the lube, I used GM's concentrate which they developed for noises in their Dana's.
08-19-2006, 06:17 AM
#11
Adminstrator-ess
We're not talking about replacing the ring and pinion. The clutches wear out, which lets the spiders move away from the side gears and wears them out. It would never make any noise going straight because all that stuff runs at the same speed in a straght line. Mine made no noise at all, even on corners.
First thing to do is what flashgordon said, change the lube to make sure you have the limited slip additive in there.
First thing to do is what flashgordon said, change the lube to make sure you have the limited slip additive in there.
08-19-2006, 11:57 AM
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With worn out clutches they make no noise going down the road. It is almost as though you have a nice ring and pinion but no differential at all.
When you corner, there is no differential action. The metal to metal contact in the clutch pac only slips under extreme force... hence the banging sound. On soft ground, especially if you are not loaded, you may not even notice there is a problem because of wheel slippage.
A few tight turns in a parking-lot will induce the grab and slip phenomena which WILL kill your differential. Usually a spider gear just blows up. The amount of damage it does varies a lot.
It is cheap and easy to fix the problem ahead of time by replacing the worn clutch pac.
If you are really fortunate it may only be the lack of friction reducer that is causing your problems. Also I have heard that if you use synthetic gear oil, you may not need the friction reducer.
When you corner, there is no differential action. The metal to metal contact in the clutch pac only slips under extreme force... hence the banging sound. On soft ground, especially if you are not loaded, you may not even notice there is a problem because of wheel slippage.
A few tight turns in a parking-lot will induce the grab and slip phenomena which WILL kill your differential. Usually a spider gear just blows up. The amount of damage it does varies a lot.
It is cheap and easy to fix the problem ahead of time by replacing the worn clutch pac.
If you are really fortunate it may only be the lack of friction reducer that is causing your problems. Also I have heard that if you use synthetic gear oil, you may not need the friction reducer.
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