turbo changeout
turbo changeout
I would like to get a 16cm housing for my truck. Would I be able to install it myself? I can mechanic a bit. And where would I find a good by on one? thanks to your answers.
Changing it isn't that hard: just soak everything with penetrating oil for a few days before-hand, be patient getting the nuts off the manifold, and make sure the oil lines are clean before you take them apart.
Once the turbo is off the truck, take the screws out that hold the housing on, put the turbo on a solid bench, or on a board on the floor, and gently beat around the outside circumference of the housing. This will make the housing "walk" off the center section of the turbo. (When I first read the instructions on the TST site, this made no sense to me at all, but if you bang on it, it will start to move from side to side!) While you are beating on it, you need to turn the turbo shaft to make sure that it spins freely and look at how the turbine is centered in the housing. If the turbine starts to drag, beat on the other side of the housing to walk it back the other way. It is crucial that you do not bend the turbine at all by binding it in the housing.
Once the old housing is off, apply anti-sieze and tighten the screws back up evenly, once agian making sure not to bind the turbo.
I don't know what the prices are at these days, but there is a seller on e-bay "raylene" who sells injectors and turbo housings -- I bought a brand new 14 that came with gaskets & o-ring for less than anyone else was selling the 16's, and the 16 from this person would have been less than the 14 . . . Even if they don't have a housing posted, I'd shoot them an e-mail, they had great prices and were very nice to deal with.
Once the turbo is off the truck, take the screws out that hold the housing on, put the turbo on a solid bench, or on a board on the floor, and gently beat around the outside circumference of the housing. This will make the housing "walk" off the center section of the turbo. (When I first read the instructions on the TST site, this made no sense to me at all, but if you bang on it, it will start to move from side to side!) While you are beating on it, you need to turn the turbo shaft to make sure that it spins freely and look at how the turbine is centered in the housing. If the turbine starts to drag, beat on the other side of the housing to walk it back the other way. It is crucial that you do not bend the turbine at all by binding it in the housing.
Once the old housing is off, apply anti-sieze and tighten the screws back up evenly, once agian making sure not to bind the turbo.
I don't know what the prices are at these days, but there is a seller on e-bay "raylene" who sells injectors and turbo housings -- I bought a brand new 14 that came with gaskets & o-ring for less than anyone else was selling the 16's, and the 16 from this person would have been less than the 14 . . . Even if they don't have a housing posted, I'd shoot them an e-mail, they had great prices and were very nice to deal with.
I don't wanna step on any toes, but I found it easier to remove to turbo with the housing still on the truck, after about 1 hour of cussing and calling the turbo housing everything I could because I couldn't get to the bottom nuts, I decided to remove the turbo, which gave me room to get to the nuts. I did SOAK it all down with JB Blaster and used a dead blow hammer on the turbo to FINALLY get it to move, but make the love taps light, it didn't take much for me to feel the wheel start to try to bind. I removed the turbo, then the housing and re-installed in that order, it was just easier for me. One thing to watch out for is the bottom bolts on the turbo, if I remember right, one or maybe both won't come out completely unless you walk the turbo out as you unscrew it, install in the same way, not like I first tried to do
. It also is ALOT easier if your wife is not in the kitchen window on the phone saying " mom, can you hear Terry cussing his truck, and it wasn't even broke"
. It also is ALOT easier if your wife is not in the kitchen window on the phone saying " mom, can you hear Terry cussing his truck, and it wasn't even broke"
To add to what Alec said, don't expect the housing to just pop right off after a few taps. I wailed away at mine for 20 minutes before I saw any movement at all, and it took me another half hour of gentle alternate tapping to get the thing off. It's not a difficult or complex, it's just tedious and aggravating. At least you get to use a hammer.
I wailed and hammered on mine but couldn't get it to budge. I was afraid to wail on it any harder so I screwed the bolts back in then backed them out again with an open ended wrench but first I placed a short bolt on top of the bolt I was backing out and let it jam up against the housing on the other side. Then as I backed the bolt out it simply forced the two halves apart. I had to do this with all the bolts at the same time, criss-crossing back and forth. Was a bit tricky to keep the bolt from getting spit out but worked fairly well.
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You guys have NO IDEA how frustrating it can be to tear down a turbocharger.
We do around 15 or so on a typical day, some so rusted and stuck together that the ol' acetalene torch comes out to pay a visit. Sometimes the bolt heads just sheer off with only a wrench, and sometimes the bolts are so corroded that there's nowhere to get a solid bite with the wrench or socket.
As for our trucks... everyone has posted VERY helpful tips. I have another I'll add to the list, it makes life a HECK of a lot simpler to follow these simple rules.
Use a solid punch and give each bolt (ANY BOLT, Turbine Housing to Bearing Housing, or TH to Manifold, whatever...) a couple of solid LOVE TAPS on each flat part of the bolt head that is accessible. By doing this you give the bolt a "shock" much like the impact guns do. These shocks are what free up stuck bolts, without breaking the bolt.
Be sure to use anti-seize compound on each bolt, and around the bearing housing where it seats into the turbine housing....this will make it easier to take off if you need to in the future....always plan ahead, make it a breeze the next time around, even if you don't think there will be a next time. Consider it "insurance"
We do around 15 or so on a typical day, some so rusted and stuck together that the ol' acetalene torch comes out to pay a visit. Sometimes the bolt heads just sheer off with only a wrench, and sometimes the bolts are so corroded that there's nowhere to get a solid bite with the wrench or socket.As for our trucks... everyone has posted VERY helpful tips. I have another I'll add to the list, it makes life a HECK of a lot simpler to follow these simple rules.
Use a solid punch and give each bolt (ANY BOLT, Turbine Housing to Bearing Housing, or TH to Manifold, whatever...) a couple of solid LOVE TAPS on each flat part of the bolt head that is accessible. By doing this you give the bolt a "shock" much like the impact guns do. These shocks are what free up stuck bolts, without breaking the bolt.
Be sure to use anti-seize compound on each bolt, and around the bearing housing where it seats into the turbine housing....this will make it easier to take off if you need to in the future....always plan ahead, make it a breeze the next time around, even if you don't think there will be a next time. Consider it "insurance"
I wanted to use the forcing screw method, but I couldn't get the housing to budge before I was afraid that I would strip the threads out of the housing
maybe I was being to shy, but the wordt part for me about the job was trying to apply a lot of force to a bunch of very delicate stuff . . .
If I had an acetelyne torch with a rosebud, I would have been using it!
maybe I was being to shy, but the wordt part for me about the job was trying to apply a lot of force to a bunch of very delicate stuff . . .If I had an acetelyne torch with a rosebud, I would have been using it!
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