is it true? Help
#1
is it true? Help
Well tonight i believe i got gelled. I was about a mile or so from home when sputter sputter dead. I'm not sure if my fuel heater works. i am just wonder if its true if the gel really starts in the filter. I can run up to NAPA in the morning and get two filters replace the one I have and keep a spare. I just want to make sure its there and not in my lines. Any other tips on getting my baby running?
Thanks Derek
Thanks Derek
#2
Registered User
Do you run any fuel additive? I run 2 cycle oil to help lube the internal IP and injectors parts, and then a few ounces of Howes diesel fuel treatment to make sure I don't gel.
And from the advice of Bearkiller...I run the small clear, cheap, easily replaceable fuel filter BEFORE my IP. If it gels up I could easily spot it in the clear filter housing.
And from the advice of Bearkiller...I run the small clear, cheap, easily replaceable fuel filter BEFORE my IP. If it gels up I could easily spot it in the clear filter housing.
#4
1st Generation Admin
It's my understanding that when the fuel "gels", it actually starts as small globs so to speak (it's actually the more waxy, lower boiling point elements congealing). It's those small globs that plug the fuel filter. The fuel doesn't gel exclusively at the filter. If it's cold enough, it'll gel where ever it is, tank, lines, etc.
The fuel heating element is designed to, hopefully, heat the passing fuel, on it's way to the filter, just enough to prevent those passing small globs of wax from plugging the filter. It's not intended to heat the tank of fuel (The IP will do that with some run time).
The way I understand the winter blends of fuel, they pretty-much mix in some no1 fuel oil with the regular no2 diesel. The no1 is thinner and sorta acts as a solvent in the thicker no2, lowering its cloud-point (where gelling starts). As with anything else, nothing comes for free, the no1 fuel oil has a little less BTU content compared to the same measure of no2.
Make sense?
(If I'm off, somebody correct me. )
The fuel heating element is designed to, hopefully, heat the passing fuel, on it's way to the filter, just enough to prevent those passing small globs of wax from plugging the filter. It's not intended to heat the tank of fuel (The IP will do that with some run time).
The way I understand the winter blends of fuel, they pretty-much mix in some no1 fuel oil with the regular no2 diesel. The no1 is thinner and sorta acts as a solvent in the thicker no2, lowering its cloud-point (where gelling starts). As with anything else, nothing comes for free, the no1 fuel oil has a little less BTU content compared to the same measure of no2.
Make sense?
(If I'm off, somebody correct me. )
#5
Do you run any fuel additive? I run 2 cycle oil to help lube the internal IP and injectors parts, and then a few ounces of Howes diesel fuel treatment to make sure I don't gel.
I usually add some white power service with each fill up i put in ten gallons of fuel a day or so ago and forget to put in some PS. so this leads me to believe its gelled
And from the advice of Bearkiller...I run the small clear, cheap, easily replaceable fuel filter BEFORE my IP. If it gels up I could easily spot it in the clear filter housing.
is this the type that i can just cut the supply line and install it. what size is the fuel line? 3/8" ?
I usually add some white power service with each fill up i put in ten gallons of fuel a day or so ago and forget to put in some PS. so this leads me to believe its gelled
And from the advice of Bearkiller...I run the small clear, cheap, easily replaceable fuel filter BEFORE my IP. If it gels up I could easily spot it in the clear filter housing.
is this the type that i can just cut the supply line and install it. what size is the fuel line? 3/8" ?
#6
I have my doubts that white PS does much if any good. I have had a new un-opened bottle in the back of my truck jell up on a cold night. Having lived and worked in Wyoming for the past 28 years, I believe the only thing that works is properly blended fuel. Some stations go 80/20 around here in the winter. (80% #1, 20% #2) My guess is you have other problems (lift pump?) or if you are jelled up, you got some bad fuel.
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#8
DTR's "Cooler than ice cubes 14 miles North of North Pole" member
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Yep. Sorta.
The filter is where you actually have the problem surface.
That's why the filter is where the problem surfaces. The little globs (or wax) collect and block the fuel flow.
Yep. Pretty much right on. The #1 has less of the parafin wax in it so it doesn't cloud as easily . Less wax to begin with the less chance of build up. The process to get more of the wax out to make the #1 also lowers the BTU content. Less BTUs = less milage/power.
#1 also has WAY less lubricity making it much harder on your IP and injectors. Always a good idea to run some 2-stroke and/or anti-gel/lubricity modifier. I use Stanadyne performance formula. Of course I run straight #1 for about 6 months every year.
The filter is where you actually have the problem surface.
It's my understanding that when the fuel "gels", it actually starts as small globs so to speak (it's actually the more waxy, lower boiling point elements congealing). It's those small globs that plug the fuel filter. The fuel doesn't gel exclusively at the filter. If it's cold enough, it'll gel where ever it is, tank, lines, etc.
The way I understand the winter blends of fuel, they pretty-much mix in some no1 fuel oil with the regular no2 diesel. The no1 is thinner and sorta acts as a solvent in the thicker no2, lowering its cloud-point (where gelling starts). As with anything else, nothing comes for free, the no1 fuel oil has a little less BTU content compared to the same measure of no2.
#1 also has WAY less lubricity making it much harder on your IP and injectors. Always a good idea to run some 2-stroke and/or anti-gel/lubricity modifier. I use Stanadyne performance formula. Of course I run straight #1 for about 6 months every year.
#9
ok so i got a new filter and filled it with 911 poured the rest into my tank. the truck is primes fuel coming out of the bleeder above the filter. cracked #1 injector there is fuel, but it wont catch. i disconnected my grid heater and gave it an small mist. and it wont catch still, what is going on this is my only vehicle and i need to use it today and everyone at the house is gone. how can i get this rig running?
#10
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Carck open 4-6 and crank it til there's plenty of fuel flowing out of them and close them off. crack open 1-3 and crank til it lights off then close off 1-3. It'll run like crap on 3 cyl but it will run. Should clear up in a second or 2.
#12
is there a way to bleed the rest of my injectors without bumping then engine with the starter? last night it died with the key on so i am sure its not my fss, i check it and it has power with the key on.
#14
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YOu can bleed the injectors by cranking even by yourself. You don't have to close off the lines while they are spitting fuel at you. Just crank away untill there is plenty of fuel running out the lines then close them off and crank again. It'll fire.
#15
Lots of LP pumping will do it eventually.........
YOu can bleed the injectors by cranking even by yourself. You don't have to close off the lines while they are spitting fuel at you. Just crank away untill there is plenty of fuel running out the lines then close them off and crank again. It'll fire.
YOu can bleed the injectors by cranking even by yourself. You don't have to close off the lines while they are spitting fuel at you. Just crank away untill there is plenty of fuel running out the lines then close them off and crank again. It'll fire.