I posted on here a couple weeks ago saying that my truck would not start. The concensus was that my fuel shut off solenoid went bad, which is what I was thinking. Got around to putting it today and still no start, it just cranks. I pulled the solenoid back out and took the plunger and spring out to see if it would start.... Nothing. I'm not getting fuel to the injectors. I cracked the line coming out of the lift pump to see if I got fuel and it shot out of there. The injector pump is less than a year old. I have not replaced the fuel filter yet... I know that is probably the first thing that I should have done. Any Ideas what else it could be? For those who did not read my post a couple weeks ago, I was just driving my truck when it died and wouldn't start.

 

It is good idea to change the fuel filter first, after you have got it changed out, bleed the fuel filter by loosen the bleeding bolt right above the filter and operating the manual pump lever. Pump it till there are no more air bubbles coming from the bleeding bolt. Then go to the fuel lines at the injectors and loosen them up a little and crank engine over and see if the fuel comes out. If fuel is present, then tighten the fuel lines and start the engine.

 

What shape was the old shut off selinoid? Was the rubber all torn up? I've heard of this happening and sending pieces throughout. It's a long shot but I say bleed the IP till you're ready to sell and it will probably start.

 

Although the filter is not always to blame, it is the first place to start trouble-shooting.

If you don't have/can't afford/ a fuel-filter, remove the bleeder screw at the filter-head and have someone crank the engine, while you watch.

If no fuel squirts out, then, most likely, the filter is plugged.

I have had them be running like a freight-train, then just fall out from under themselves and die; then, screw on a new filter and all is good.


When replacing a fuel-filter, I have never done anything special, other than to fill the filter full before screwing it on, no messing with bleeding, just crank it up.



Make the next thing on your list = installing a fuel-pressure gauge; a ten-dollar one is just as good as a two-hundred-dollar one; any gauge is better than no gauge.

 

I agree, filter 1st then you can bleed right to the IP by removing the shut off solinoid and using the priming lever on the lift pump.

 

I went to try and start mine after being stored all winter (parked it in late October). It was about 15-20 degrees today, but it has gotten down to -25 this winter at some points, so that's the temps the engine has been subjected to.

The battery was really weak despite having been unhooked during that whole period, so I wasn't able to get real long periods of cranking out of it even when jumping it. However it seemed to spin over pretty good, just for 10 seconds at a time before it'd get too weak again.

I can definitely hear the grid heater cycling and see the voltage drop when it does it, so that's working, although it seemed odd to me what a short amount of time it'd stay on for (5 seconds tops about).

Admittedly I forgot to put any kind of fuel treatment into the tank before I parked it, but the fuel filter and fuel were both totally brand new at the time (less than 50 miles on that filter, and I ran the tank out of fuel accidentally right before bringing it over to storage, so I bled the lines and got new fuel in them, etc.) Last spring and summer when I was driving it now and then it'd always fire on the first crank, so this was kind of a surprise.

I was working by myself so this was kind of tricky, but I did crack a couple injectors and then crank it and I'm not sure if fuel went squirting out at high pressure, but it sure did come out out of the injector lines.



I really wanted to shoot some ether into the air intake, but the big "IMMEDIATE ENGINE DAMAGE" lettering deterred me. Is there anything else I should try? I'm going to go over tomorrow with a warm battery and a filter wrench and see if either of those things does it...

 

If you disable the grid heaters, you can give it a shot of starting fluid, but be sparley with that stuff.
If you spray it without disabling the grid heaters, you will be retrieving intake parts.

 

Will it really increase the chances of it starting anyway? I'd also have to unbolt the intake crossover casting by the looks of it, so maybe it's not worth it...

 

Just take the big hose going to the turbo, spray in there.

 

Yep, what he said.

To disable the grids, remove one (doesn't matter which one) small wire from BOTH of the the relays on the fender. They just pull off, so it will only take a couple seconds.

A whiff of ether will get it running unless there's a massive fuel leak or the pump is trashed.

 

Replaced the fuel filter and that did not fix the problem. I cracked the lines and gave it a sniff of ether to see if I could get fuel to come out of the lines. I got number 3 and number 5 to squirt some fuel. I am thinking that my injector pump has gone bad, but is it possible that it slipped timing? I just think that it is kinda odd that it is only shooting fuel out of 3 and 5. Let me know what you think.

 

Even if the timing is wrong you should get fuel to all 6 injectors just at the wrong time to make it run.

 

Where, exactly, did you squirt the ether ??

I wouldn't be "cracking" injector-lines and using ether at the same time.

Dis-connect power to the grid-heaters; THEN, open an intake-boot; mist the ether directly into the intake while someone is cranking.

Just a mist; don't drown it; a little goes a long way.


Use this advice at your own risk.