Ticking sounds
#1
Administrator
Thread Starter
Ticking sounds
Exhaust leak.
Tic tic tic, for about the last month, I have been getting a ticking sound from my exhaust, I could hear it when ever I got near my turbo, also I could hear it when driving next to buildings or semi trailers down the freeway.
With a bit of investigating I found I that I had an exhaust leak from #5 exhaust flange,
So last week I finally replaced the gaskets and as I figured, #5 was burned out at the bottom; you can see where it had burned.
I loosened all of the bolts so the manifold was loose and then I removed the bolts, cylinder at a time, I had cut a scraper blade flat so I could slip it down the space between the head and manifold and remove anything that would be remaining, after it was clean, I replaced each gasket and then torqued the entire manifold to I think it was around 45 lbs, Id have to look at my notes.
After I installed the last gasket and torqued them I looked down and found 1 gasket left over on top of the valve cover so after a head count between the flanges I found I did replace all of them and whoever packaged them gave me an extra one, must have been for the 7th cylinder.
Anyhow, I still have an exhaust leak from #5 cylinder flange, guess the manifold has warped or whatever.
Does anybody make a set of extra thick hollow copper gaskets that could stop this leak?
It is not bad but I know it is there and I do not want to take any chances burning my head or an exhaust valve.
I have tried retoquring them.
What are my options, where would I find a good used exhaust manifold, Cummins parts are non existent here in Southern California.
Has anyone had any luck with a tubular exhaust manifold and do they fit well or are they like headers that always loosen up and burn out?
Thanks Jim
Tic tic tic, for about the last month, I have been getting a ticking sound from my exhaust, I could hear it when ever I got near my turbo, also I could hear it when driving next to buildings or semi trailers down the freeway.
With a bit of investigating I found I that I had an exhaust leak from #5 exhaust flange,
So last week I finally replaced the gaskets and as I figured, #5 was burned out at the bottom; you can see where it had burned.
I loosened all of the bolts so the manifold was loose and then I removed the bolts, cylinder at a time, I had cut a scraper blade flat so I could slip it down the space between the head and manifold and remove anything that would be remaining, after it was clean, I replaced each gasket and then torqued the entire manifold to I think it was around 45 lbs, Id have to look at my notes.
After I installed the last gasket and torqued them I looked down and found 1 gasket left over on top of the valve cover so after a head count between the flanges I found I did replace all of them and whoever packaged them gave me an extra one, must have been for the 7th cylinder.
Anyhow, I still have an exhaust leak from #5 cylinder flange, guess the manifold has warped or whatever.
Does anybody make a set of extra thick hollow copper gaskets that could stop this leak?
It is not bad but I know it is there and I do not want to take any chances burning my head or an exhaust valve.
I have tried retoquring them.
What are my options, where would I find a good used exhaust manifold, Cummins parts are non existent here in Southern California.
Has anyone had any luck with a tubular exhaust manifold and do they fit well or are they like headers that always loosen up and burn out?
Thanks Jim
#2
Registered User
I have seen 12Vs with 3,4 or even 5 standard metal gaskets behind an exhaust manifold, obviously to deal with a warped manifold.
It might work for you.
Or, if you need a used manifold I have a bunch of used 12V manifolds sitting on my shelf, next to my Cummins turbo collection.
It might work for you.
Or, if you need a used manifold I have a bunch of used 12V manifolds sitting on my shelf, next to my Cummins turbo collection.
#3
Banned
I have seen 12Vs with 3,4 or even 5 standard metal gaskets behind an exhaust manifold, obviously to deal with a warped manifold.
It might work for you.
Or, if you need a used manifold I have a bunch of used 12V manifolds sitting on my shelf, next to my Cummins turbo collection.
It might work for you.
Or, if you need a used manifold I have a bunch of used 12V manifolds sitting on my shelf, next to my Cummins turbo collection.
#4
Banned
but to address the original topic. I think it's BD Diesel that makes a cast iron type manifold that's supposed to be better than stock but not the "tube header" style. might be something to look at
#5
Registered User
Without pulling the manifold off completely, you don't really know where the damage is. If it's the manifold, it's pretty easy at that time to have it re-faced, or replace it if it's warped too bad.
Messing with it might cost you some damage to the head that'll be harder to deal with.
Neat idea about the slip-scraper though.
Messing with it might cost you some damage to the head that'll be harder to deal with.
Neat idea about the slip-scraper though.
#6
Administrator
Thread Starter
I was thinking about removing the exhaust manifold then after making sure there is nothing obvious, set it flange side down on a piece of glass with carbide paper between and see if I could level it out, this will at least show the leak.
I have repaired a fair amount of AMC and Vega manifolds this way back in the olden days.
I was hoping for a nice set of hollow copper gaskets that would crush and seal the leaks.
I found some nice looking aftermarket manifolds but wow $470.00 is a bit more than I want to spend today although it it would look nice sitting in there.
Thanks
Jim
I have repaired a fair amount of AMC and Vega manifolds this way back in the olden days.
I was hoping for a nice set of hollow copper gaskets that would crush and seal the leaks.
I found some nice looking aftermarket manifolds but wow $470.00 is a bit more than I want to spend today although it it would look nice sitting in there.
Thanks
Jim
#7
Administrator
Thread Starter
Without pulling the manifold off completely, you don't really know where the damage is. If it's the manifold, it's pretty easy at that time to have it re-faced, or replace it if it's warped too bad.
Messing with it might cost you some damage to the head that'll be harder to deal with.
Neat idea about the slip-scraper though.
Messing with it might cost you some damage to the head that'll be harder to deal with.
Neat idea about the slip-scraper though.
Do you think they could resurface the manifold successfully, decent machine shops are getting scarce around here.
Jim
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#8
Administrator
Thread Starter
Can I leave the turbo connected to the outlet pipe and slip the manifold out from under it or does the turbo come out first, didn' want to mess with the oil lines.
#9
Banned
but to answer your question, i'm sure it could be done. i just hate working around stuff
#10
Registered User
I take all the 1st gens off the road as soon as the plow trucks even think about spreading salt for the winter.
One '89 12V 5 speed 4x4 dump truck mostly for firewood, as I go through 12 cords a winter.
One '93 auto 4x4 12V for plowing snow.
Two more 12V project Ramcharger conversions waiting for me to have some time...
I need a few spare Cummins parts in the shop.
Yeah, my man cave of a shop horrifies a few of my friend's old ladies.
I am okay with that, you can always leave them at home next time...
I don't have a TV, I have Mopars and dogs.
So if Jim needs a manifold, I got that covered.
#11
Registered User
Jim, I installed an ATS manifold on my engine back in April. I have my stock one if you'd like to have it. As best I can tell, it's not warped and it never leaked.
If you'd rather have your manifold machined true, stop by L&R Automotive in Santa Fe Springs and speak with Derek (if he's available). I had them machine my cylinder head years back when I pulled it to replace the gasket. They did a great job and are pretty inexpensive. The total bill for the work was around $400 which included hot tanking, magnaflux and a valve job. I've had them machine a flywheel that I sold with a clutch and pressure plate. That was only $45.
If you'd rather have your manifold machined true, stop by L&R Automotive in Santa Fe Springs and speak with Derek (if he's available). I had them machine my cylinder head years back when I pulled it to replace the gasket. They did a great job and are pretty inexpensive. The total bill for the work was around $400 which included hot tanking, magnaflux and a valve job. I've had them machine a flywheel that I sold with a clutch and pressure plate. That was only $45.
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