Tallon Hydraulics HB kit pics
04-26-2017, 08:30 PM
#46
Registered User
Thread Starter
My wife hates me, what are you talking about. No way I'm sharing the hate, Mark, LOL!
Had an ok day- got the booster on. Little glitches started to arise, like all HB conversions. I don't care what anyone says, if they claim true bolt on, if it wasn't made specifically for the model year truck, there's gonna be glitches!
First off, the booster fell right into place, like I knew it would, but prior to doing that I pre measure the brake pedal rod out of the factory vac booster. 6 5/8" from back of booster to center of eyelet. The Tallon kit, with the eyelet threaded all the way out and barely hanging on with two whole threads, only gave me 6 3/8". No big,went to the local Ace hardware and got the length right with a rod coupling and some threaded rod, all 3/8-24 thread to match the booster rod in the kit.
Next glitch, was the proportioning valve bracket. It did not match the two bolts and its center to center layout, the ones that hold the mAster cylinder. Plus a corner of the bracket collided with the boosters accumulator cylinder. Had to ream out the bracket holes, and then take a cut off wheel to the bracket. Master cylinder and bracket all bolted.
Connected all my cooler lines, and the return line from the Tallon booster to the new, reman PS pump. So, all rubber hoses are done.
Next, is the fit up of the brake line to the master cylinder. Dang, I struggled with that. Ended up over hulking one of them and kinking it. Gotta run to the parts store tomorrow.
Tomorrow, I have to attend class, a class on installing AN fittings onto stainless braided lines. Who else would be the teacher, but MKnittle himself! I'll bring an apple, and pull a Spicole and have a pizza sent during the lesson, LOL.
I've seen the process done, but never tried myself. I feel it may be a one shot deal, after the hose is cut to length, so I need a lesson.
Had an ok day- got the booster on. Little glitches started to arise, like all HB conversions. I don't care what anyone says, if they claim true bolt on, if it wasn't made specifically for the model year truck, there's gonna be glitches!
First off, the booster fell right into place, like I knew it would, but prior to doing that I pre measure the brake pedal rod out of the factory vac booster. 6 5/8" from back of booster to center of eyelet. The Tallon kit, with the eyelet threaded all the way out and barely hanging on with two whole threads, only gave me 6 3/8". No big,went to the local Ace hardware and got the length right with a rod coupling and some threaded rod, all 3/8-24 thread to match the booster rod in the kit.
Next glitch, was the proportioning valve bracket. It did not match the two bolts and its center to center layout, the ones that hold the mAster cylinder. Plus a corner of the bracket collided with the boosters accumulator cylinder. Had to ream out the bracket holes, and then take a cut off wheel to the bracket. Master cylinder and bracket all bolted.
Connected all my cooler lines, and the return line from the Tallon booster to the new, reman PS pump. So, all rubber hoses are done.
Next, is the fit up of the brake line to the master cylinder. Dang, I struggled with that. Ended up over hulking one of them and kinking it. Gotta run to the parts store tomorrow.
Tomorrow, I have to attend class, a class on installing AN fittings onto stainless braided lines. Who else would be the teacher, but MKnittle himself! I'll bring an apple, and pull a Spicole and have a pizza sent during the lesson, LOL.
I've seen the process done, but never tried myself. I feel it may be a one shot deal, after the hose is cut to length, so I need a lesson.
04-26-2017, 08:47 PM
#47
Registered User
My wife hates me, what are you talking about. No way I'm sharing the hate, Mark, LOL!
Had an ok day- got the booster on. Little glitches started to arise, like all HB conversions. I don't care what anyone says, if they claim true bolt on, if it wasn't made specifically for the model year truck, there's gonna be glitches!
First off, the booster fell right into place, like I knew it would, but prior to doing that I pre measure the brake pedal rod out of the factory vac booster. 6 5/8" from back of booster to center of eyelet. The Tallon kit, with the eyelet threaded all the way out and barely hanging on with two whole threads, only gave me 6 3/8". No big,went to the local Ace hardware and got the length right with a rod coupling and some threaded rod, all 3/8-24 thread to match the booster rod in the kit.
Next glitch, was the proportioning valve bracket. It did not match the two bolts and its center to center layout, the ones that hold the mAster cylinder. Plus a corner of the bracket collided with the boosters accumulator cylinder. Had to ream out the bracket holes, and then take a cut off wheel to the bracket. Master cylinder and bracket all bolted.
Connected all my cooler lines, and the return line from the Tallon booster to the new, reman PS pump. So, all rubber hoses are done.
Next, is the fit up of the brake line to the master cylinder. Dang, I struggled with that. Ended up over hulking one of them and kinking it. Gotta run to the parts store tomorrow.
Tomorrow, I have to attend class, a class on installing AN fittings onto stainless braided lines. Who else would be the teacher, but MKnittle himself! I'll bring an apple, and pull a Spicole and have a pizza sent during the lesson, LOL.
I've seen the process done, but never tried myself. I feel it may be a one shot deal, after the hose is cut to length, so I need a lesson.
Had an ok day- got the booster on. Little glitches started to arise, like all HB conversions. I don't care what anyone says, if they claim true bolt on, if it wasn't made specifically for the model year truck, there's gonna be glitches!
First off, the booster fell right into place, like I knew it would, but prior to doing that I pre measure the brake pedal rod out of the factory vac booster. 6 5/8" from back of booster to center of eyelet. The Tallon kit, with the eyelet threaded all the way out and barely hanging on with two whole threads, only gave me 6 3/8". No big,went to the local Ace hardware and got the length right with a rod coupling and some threaded rod, all 3/8-24 thread to match the booster rod in the kit.
Next glitch, was the proportioning valve bracket. It did not match the two bolts and its center to center layout, the ones that hold the mAster cylinder. Plus a corner of the bracket collided with the boosters accumulator cylinder. Had to ream out the bracket holes, and then take a cut off wheel to the bracket. Master cylinder and bracket all bolted.
Connected all my cooler lines, and the return line from the Tallon booster to the new, reman PS pump. So, all rubber hoses are done.
Next, is the fit up of the brake line to the master cylinder. Dang, I struggled with that. Ended up over hulking one of them and kinking it. Gotta run to the parts store tomorrow.
Tomorrow, I have to attend class, a class on installing AN fittings onto stainless braided lines. Who else would be the teacher, but MKnittle himself! I'll bring an apple, and pull a Spicole and have a pizza sent during the lesson, LOL.
I've seen the process done, but never tried myself. I feel it may be a one shot deal, after the hose is cut to length, so I need a lesson.
04-26-2017, 09:39 PM
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
Following are some shots of today's progress
04-26-2017, 09:43 PM
#49
Registered User
Thread Starter
Almost did a major blunder, and either cut the accumulator apart or scratched it bad. I ended up slightly kissing it, when I had a grinder with a cut off wheel to the Proportining valve bracket. Now it's something I'll see for a long time. Oh, well, the problems that come with modifying.
04-26-2017, 10:01 PM
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm gonna replace that front brake line. Even though it's installed, I want it to look like MKnittles brake lines. I've never formed brake lines, and even though the radius's are full, it looks like chit to me. Can anyone suggest a tool of some sort, to bend nice lines like the factory? All my tubing benders are sized for A/C refer lines. Do they make ones sized for brake lines?
04-26-2017, 11:46 PM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Found a tool at Orileys, to do the brake lines. Start fresh in the am
The following users liked this post:
mknittle (04-27-2017)
04-27-2017, 08:17 AM
#52
Registered User
04-27-2017, 09:09 AM
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
Do you have a pic of the tool, for future reference? If I ever have to redo, and fabricate multiple brake lines I may invest in a better one, but for two lines approx 8" in length, this $10 tool will have to do. But do send a pic, as I love tools, LOL!
The following users liked this post:
thrashingcows (04-27-2017)
04-27-2017, 12:55 PM
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
Brake lines to Master cylinder all done!! Only took me almost 3 hours to bend up 7" of two 1/4" tubes! If this was my line of work, I'd be sent off to the unenjoyment line...Ha!
04-27-2017, 12:59 PM
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
Can someone verify, maybe you AJ, if flexible stainless braided lines are allowed from the connection to the Master Cylinder from the proportioning valve? Seems I heard, the flexible lines were not DOT standard. Just need verification.
So far, this has been the hardest part of the install. Last night, I scoured thru most of the HB treads, and seems the brake lines and the sourcing of fittings, and installations, are never talked about. Maybe this is why, LOL.
Can you imagine if hard lines were required on all plumbing fixtures!!! I know they once were!
So far, this has been the hardest part of the install. Last night, I scoured thru most of the HB treads, and seems the brake lines and the sourcing of fittings, and installations, are never talked about. Maybe this is why, LOL.
Can you imagine if hard lines were required on all plumbing fixtures!!! I know they once were!
04-27-2017, 01:09 PM
#58
Registered User
Our factory vac system of braking works great, provided you are up on the maintenance. These trucks are old, and so are the brakes lines, MC, Booster, all that. If you are looking to get stellar brakes, I would first go thru this check off list, while keeping the factory vac system:
1. Upgrade to 1 ton rear brakes- that's 3" wide shoes and 1 1/8" wheel cylinders.
2. New drums, pads, and rotors. All brand new hardware, seals, etc.
3. Swap out your brake hoses to stainless braided at all 4 tires
4. Delete the RWAL valve- this is optional, but highly recomended to delete
5. New booster and master cylinder- just because these parts are new, doesn't mean they are good. These parts, and their lack of quality today, I feel are the main reasons that folks convert over to HB.
6. Be very dilligent on the rear drum star wheel adjustments, and the brake bleeding process.
Some folks on here swear by their factory brakes, and if you read their posts, they're on top of it(brake maintenance).
Me myself, I'm just tired of the inconsistent braking that seems to start off great, then over time just falls away. That list above? Done all that. Like I said, worked great for awhile, then after about a year or so, not too stellar anymore.
I want to join the folks that have to wear protective face gear for when they have to apply the brakes, LOL.
If you want to read good treads on HB conversions, specific to our trucks, MKnittle, ThrashingCows, JFonder, and Ouchieman basically did detailed write ups on their installs.
1. Upgrade to 1 ton rear brakes- that's 3" wide shoes and 1 1/8" wheel cylinders.
2. New drums, pads, and rotors. All brand new hardware, seals, etc.
3. Swap out your brake hoses to stainless braided at all 4 tires
4. Delete the RWAL valve- this is optional, but highly recomended to delete
5. New booster and master cylinder- just because these parts are new, doesn't mean they are good. These parts, and their lack of quality today, I feel are the main reasons that folks convert over to HB.
6. Be very dilligent on the rear drum star wheel adjustments, and the brake bleeding process.
Some folks on here swear by their factory brakes, and if you read their posts, they're on top of it(brake maintenance).
Me myself, I'm just tired of the inconsistent braking that seems to start off great, then over time just falls away. That list above? Done all that. Like I said, worked great for awhile, then after about a year or so, not too stellar anymore.
I want to join the folks that have to wear protective face gear for when they have to apply the brakes, LOL.
If you want to read good treads on HB conversions, specific to our trucks, MKnittle, ThrashingCows, JFonder, and Ouchieman basically did detailed write ups on their installs.
04-27-2017, 01:35 PM
#59
Registered User
Can someone verify, maybe you AJ, if flexible stainless braided lines are allowed from the connection to the Master Cylinder from the proportioning valve? Seems I heard, the flexible lines were not DOT standard. Just need verification.
So far, this has been the hardest part of the install. Last night, I scoured thru most of the HB treads, and seems the brake lines and the sourcing of fittings, and installations, are never talked about. Maybe this is why, LOL.
Can you imagine if hard lines were required on all plumbing fixtures!!! I know they once were!
So far, this has been the hardest part of the install. Last night, I scoured thru most of the HB treads, and seems the brake lines and the sourcing of fittings, and installations, are never talked about. Maybe this is why, LOL.
Can you imagine if hard lines were required on all plumbing fixtures!!! I know they once were!
04-27-2017, 01:45 PM
#60
Registered User
