Tallon Hydraulics HB kit pics
#1
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Tallon Hydraulics HB kit pics
I posted on another tread that I'd post pics of the kit, as soon as it came in. Very professionally boxed, and came with what seems like 20 pages of installation instructions. Was talking with Butch over at Tallon, about his thoughts on filtration, and he has a kit that mounts in line on the high pressure side between the booster and the PS pump. The filter cartridges inside the steel canister are replaceable. I am going to order that, as a way of preventive maintenance, and also as a warranty savior, should something fail in the booster cause of debris coming from my pump/steering unit. Butch is saving me a few bucks on fittings, since I purchased a kit from him.
Following are separate pics, since I haven't figured how to post multiple pics on a single post:
Following are separate pics, since I haven't figured how to post multiple pics on a single post:
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#2
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The length of the HB unit, from firewall side of plate to end of the MC is 14 1/2". I did not want to exceed 17"", cause it then would run into my intake horn. The mount plate is beefy, at 5/8" in thickness. It's great that the entire assembly came put together, so as I don't have to deal with pushrod adjustments. All done at Tallon.
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#3
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All hoses and fittings are first class, and the kit even included side by side hose supports, instead of using zip ties. I expected to use zip ties, as there's nothing wrong with it, but that added part is a bonus.
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#4
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All in all a nice kit. Part of my job is actually writing step by step, detailed instructions. The instructions that came with the kit are very specific, very detailed, with warnings of what not to do and what to check before proceeding to the next step.
I'd like to say right now, that "I'd do it again", but I'll save that for after the install, and hopefully positive results. I decided to swap out my power steering pump for a reman made for a 2000 model year with the dual returns, just like TCows did. While trying to stay ahead, I pre installed a tube and fin Derale cooler and think I cracked the return stem on the pump, cause I just can't get that pump to bleed out. Instead, it's vomiting out foamed fluid. Yes, I've tried all the suggestions from folks that have done it, along with the FSM.
Decided to throw that cheap Derale cooler, and instead bought an all aluminum Derale heat sink style cooler from Summit, that can be mounted anywhere w/o the need for air flow. 3" round x 3" tall x 14" in length, I'm mounting that thing right under the harmonic balancer, against the radiator support frame.
Probably going to be awhile before I install this bad boy, but I'll keep you all posted on the results.
Thank you
I'd like to say right now, that "I'd do it again", but I'll save that for after the install, and hopefully positive results. I decided to swap out my power steering pump for a reman made for a 2000 model year with the dual returns, just like TCows did. While trying to stay ahead, I pre installed a tube and fin Derale cooler and think I cracked the return stem on the pump, cause I just can't get that pump to bleed out. Instead, it's vomiting out foamed fluid. Yes, I've tried all the suggestions from folks that have done it, along with the FSM.
Decided to throw that cheap Derale cooler, and instead bought an all aluminum Derale heat sink style cooler from Summit, that can be mounted anywhere w/o the need for air flow. 3" round x 3" tall x 14" in length, I'm mounting that thing right under the harmonic balancer, against the radiator support frame.
Probably going to be awhile before I install this bad boy, but I'll keep you all posted on the results.
Thank you
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#6
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Floor boards for sure!
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mknittle (04-20-2017)
#7
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Upon further reading of the instructions pertaining to warranties, they specifically say, that all parts that have to be returned for any type of warranty inspection must be shipped back in the original box, or don't bother chasing down any warranty claims. "Keep the box" spelled out three times!
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mknittle (04-20-2017)
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#9
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Believe The Ragu said it was about $700.
Only thing I see that I am not a fan of is the HB unit being upside down. Now I realize why it was done this way, neater hose routing, but the weep hole is now on the top instead of the bottom. So if you loose a HB seal, or the MC starts leaking it will have to fill that whole area before you know there is a problem, unless there is another weep hole near the MC mounting flange?
Only thing I see that I am not a fan of is the HB unit being upside down. Now I realize why it was done this way, neater hose routing, but the weep hole is now on the top instead of the bottom. So if you loose a HB seal, or the MC starts leaking it will have to fill that whole area before you know there is a problem, unless there is another weep hole near the MC mounting flange?
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mknittle (04-21-2017)
#10
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Believe T-man said it was about $700.
Only thing I see that I am not a fan of is the HB unit being upside down. Now I realize why it was done this way, neater hose routing, but the weep hole is now on the top instead of the bottom. So if you loose a HB seal, or the MC starts leaking it will have to fill that whole area before you know there is a problem, unless there is another weep hole near the MC mounting flange?
Only thing I see that I am not a fan of is the HB unit being upside down. Now I realize why it was done this way, neater hose routing, but the weep hole is now on the top instead of the bottom. So if you loose a HB seal, or the MC starts leaking it will have to fill that whole area before you know there is a problem, unless there is another weep hole near the MC mounting flange?
#12
Registered User
Believe The Ragu said it was about $700.
Only thing I see that I am not a fan of is the HB unit being upside down. Now I realize why it was done this way, neater hose routing, but the weep hole is now on the top instead of the bottom. So if you loose a HB seal, or the MC starts leaking it will have to fill that whole area before you know there is a problem, unless there is another weep hole near the MC mounting flange?
Only thing I see that I am not a fan of is the HB unit being upside down. Now I realize why it was done this way, neater hose routing, but the weep hole is now on the top instead of the bottom. So if you loose a HB seal, or the MC starts leaking it will have to fill that whole area before you know there is a problem, unless there is another weep hole near the MC mounting flange?
#13
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Regardless, once done you are going to love it! just make sure to wear your safety belt on the test drive.
#14
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I, too, was thinking about that weep hole, except not over coffee but while I was going to the bathroom this morning....anyway, looking at the factory HB set up on my 02 Powerstroke, it is so cluttered, and pitch black underneath that booster. Seems most cars and trucks are getting more and more cluttered, it's a wonder how the professional mechanics do their magic getting to anything. If, the weep hole was dripping at all, I would not see the initial drip mess on anything under the booster due to the clutter, and by the time it made it to the floor, wouldn't that also be kind of too late? I understand TCows theory in our trucks, cause heck, it's got all sorts of room, and maybe see the drip sooner?
Speaking from experience, based on this concept- years ago, when I noticed my brakes were starting to show its age the first time, being a newbie to brakes I figured I just needed shoes and pads. I was under the truck for some reason, and saw my factory booster soaking wet. That's what prompted me to do the repairs. Funny thing, though, not a drip on the ground. That was the same with my tappet cover leak I had. The side of the engine had a film of moisture, but no leaks on the ground. Underneath, soaking wet.
There's this fact about how water travels and is an important concept to understand in the sheet metal trades, particularly architectural roofing and flashings. Water will travel by ways of capillary attraction(how water has a tendency to cling on and pull upwards against gravity)adhesion( how water tends to travel, like how it moves laterally under your gutters after the rain stops, or how it moves horizontally on your windshield when you are at a stop and it just starts to drizzle) wind driven, and negative pressure(air sucking in so strong it pulls rain into the building). I believe these concepts affect all sorts of liquid, and that drip underneath will cling on and travel to all sorts of places before it makes that first spot on the ground. Especially if a material that was underneath the booster had some sort of soaking capabilities, which most sound deadening material does.
Now, with the weep hole on top, that will be seen as soon as you pop the hood, but who pops their hood up every 5 minutes?
I think, either way, it could be too late by the time someone notices a leak.
Speaking from experience, based on this concept- years ago, when I noticed my brakes were starting to show its age the first time, being a newbie to brakes I figured I just needed shoes and pads. I was under the truck for some reason, and saw my factory booster soaking wet. That's what prompted me to do the repairs. Funny thing, though, not a drip on the ground. That was the same with my tappet cover leak I had. The side of the engine had a film of moisture, but no leaks on the ground. Underneath, soaking wet.
There's this fact about how water travels and is an important concept to understand in the sheet metal trades, particularly architectural roofing and flashings. Water will travel by ways of capillary attraction(how water has a tendency to cling on and pull upwards against gravity)adhesion( how water tends to travel, like how it moves laterally under your gutters after the rain stops, or how it moves horizontally on your windshield when you are at a stop and it just starts to drizzle) wind driven, and negative pressure(air sucking in so strong it pulls rain into the building). I believe these concepts affect all sorts of liquid, and that drip underneath will cling on and travel to all sorts of places before it makes that first spot on the ground. Especially if a material that was underneath the booster had some sort of soaking capabilities, which most sound deadening material does.
Now, with the weep hole on top, that will be seen as soon as you pop the hood, but who pops their hood up every 5 minutes?
I think, either way, it could be too late by the time someone notices a leak.
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