mknittle

The stub on the MC covers the weep hole anyway. When I took mine apart it had quite a bit of fluid in there. That's why I re sealed it in the forst place I didn't know for sure if it was beak or power steering fluid.

thrashingcows

When I was messing around with several HB units I noticed some have the weep hole placed mid bore like Augie's....but I found a couple others that had the weep hole as a small notch near the MC mounting flange.

bigragu

Derale heat sink cooler, part number 13260 from Summit, came in today. Well made, solid. Not worried about any road debris banging this one up. Dual pass, approx. 14 1/4" in length from outside edges of mount flanges. Looks like this'll hold about a quart plus some change of PS fluid.

bigragu

1/4" NPT ports at one end, to minimize excessive lengths of hose. 3" in overall height, and diameter from fin tip to fin tip is 3". Nice and compact. One of the reviews from a Jeeper/Rock crawler said his laser thermometer shot out and read 160 degree temps, so it's drawing the heat out pretty good, I'd say.

bigragu

Does anyone know, the sizes of the front and rear connections to the proportioning valve? The HB MC has 1/2-20 on the front, and 9/16-18 on the rear. I believe the 93's also have those same sizes coming out of the MC, but I believe the sizes are flipped around.
I'm trying to source brake lines, but need to know the sizes at the P Valve connections. It would be on my 93. TCows? Oli? Deere Country? Got everything figured out, except those connections. Thanks, guys.

mknittle

Sorry I am not of much help mine is buried behind the starter in the frame.

thrashingcows

I just cut off the nuts, then added them to the new lines....then flared the new ends. So no idea what size they are.

Dan s

I e been keeping up with this thread and others on hydro boost brakes. I don't really understand how it works yet. Is it worth the time/money. My brakes r the stock ones. Pump it one time and then u have them. Master cylinder is always wet. Think it leaks out the rubber gasket. Just curious

mknittle

that's what I did.

bigragu

Our factory vac system of braking works great, provided you are up on the maintenance. These trucks are old, and so are the brakes lines, MC, Booster, all that. If you are looking to get stellar brakes, I would first go thru this check off list, while keeping the factory vac system:
1. Upgrade to 1 ton rear brakes- that's 3" wide shoes and 1 1/8" wheel cylinders.
2. New drums, pads, and rotors. All brand new hardware, seals, etc.
3. Swap out your brake hoses to stainless braided at all 4 tires
4. Delete the RWAL valve- this is optional, but highly recomended to delete
5. New booster and master cylinder- just because these parts are new, doesn't mean they are good. These parts, and their lack of quality today, I feel are the main reasons that folks convert over to HB.
6. Be very dilligent on the rear drum star wheel adjustments, and the brake bleeding process.

Some folks on here swear by their factory brakes, and if you read their posts, they're on top of it(brake maintenance).
Me myself, I'm just tired of the inconsistent braking that seems to start off great, then over time just falls away. That list above? Done all that. Like I said, worked great for awhile, then after about a year or so, not too stellar anymore.
I want to join the folks that have to wear protective face gear for when they have to apply the brakes, LOL.
If you want to read good treads on HB conversions, specific to our trucks, MKnittle, ThrashingCows, JFonder, and Ouchieman basically did detailed write ups on their installs.

bigragu

OK, then. That's what I'll do.
Thanks, fellas

mknittle

The hydroboost uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump instead of vacuum. but you already knew that.
The advantage is higher line pressure 2500psi vs 1500psi for vacuum. You also get a higher firmer pedal with better feel.

Maybe the best part is you get rid of the problematic first gen time bomb of a master cylinder.

cost depends on how you go about it. I have less than $300 into mine.But I like hunting parts.

mknittle

The fittings look a little diferent than the ones I used do the sleeves unscrew?
they must be different because of the braided stainless. I used the cloth woven hose and the sleeves were threaded.

Angry Johnny

Hey Augie, I went to that site but didn't see a specific kit for our trucks. Which one did you get?

bigragu

AJ, you have to call Butch at Tallon Hydraulics. So far, I've called that number on the web site and he has answered every time. He told me that they don't advertise any diesel kits because their clientele is mainly the muscle car guys. But, he has a kit already figured out for us first genners cause he's had multiple requests for them. If your interested in a put together kit, if you call him just mention my name, as I've been bugging the hell out of him lately, with all the questions, LOL. I found out about Butch from cummins forum and competitiondiesel.com forums. Everyone said he was the go to guy.
The basic kit does not come with a MC, just the booster and all the lines and fittings. I believe it starts out at like $625. With the addition of the MC, it out it there at $695. I almost went with my own MC, but his are brand new wildwood MC's(think that's the name) and I didn't feel like messing with the push rod adjustment. If the booster would have failed due to my poor adjustment, it would have voided the warranty, I believe. I know the new MC in the kit comes with an 1 1/8" bore.
With that said, they do provide instructions in the kit for if you provided your own MC, and how to properly set the pushrod gap.
Edit: needed to add this, if and when you decide to chat with Butch and have interested in a kit, make sure and let him know if youre running front disc/rear drum, or some folks have disk front and rear. It makes a difference in the type of accumulator that goes on your set up.