It actually now is the same as my old crew was steering wise.

Without the draglink hooked up the box would turn 3.5 turns lok to lok. Compare that with yours. Maybe my steering stops on the axle need some liberating to get more turning radius?

It is great on the highway no twitchy weirdness.

Thanks let me know if you have any more questions.

 

And in response to all this crap...

We are blazing a new trail here it should be easy enough to perform this upgrade for someone. After all we are always bombing our trucks for the fun of it right? Better off modified!

 

i think you took the word crap the wrong way, I meant all these issues and all the upgrades that have to be done, not the drama in the thread. My setup works good, and glad I don't have to go through this.

 

If you can cut all the drama out of this thread, I think its sticky worthy.


I will be attempting this sooon as I have found a parts donor waiting for me to molest her!

 

Now I know why you needed the high-flotation custom beer floats!

But seriously: It seems to me that if the steering gear end of the drag link is in mostly the same place, then it is going to load the frame the same way, whether you have the RR mounting system, or the stock system. The loading (on the frame) is determined by the relative location of the two ball joints, and the frame, regardless of the shape of the parts in between. Now, it is possible that the RR style bracket is tougher than the new style stamped plate -- it sure looks beefier -- and maybe it does a better job of transfering the load to the frame, but both boxes twist the frame in both directions.

Also, FWIW, according to the FSM the frames are NOT made from high carbon steel, and can be welded, with proper care . . .

 

The RR box doesn't twist/load the frame on the same plane as the stock box. RR loads the frame parallel to the tall side of the frame. The stock box loads the frame (and plate mostly) in a sideways fashion. Not unlike 2wd or crossover steering setups but with the plate the box is further forward right next to the front cross member and rivets on the stock 4wd setups.

It is obvious to me how this load is handled differently by the frame - and not unlike MOST heavy duty class 8 applications. (as stated before)

FYI I had to do this mod because the plate on my truck came cracked/welded when I bought it. I had a spare plate/box lying around but chose this route because it is the best option for steering IMO.

 

I picked up a steering box reinforcing bracket from a ramcharger the other day.
So my question is, should I run that bracket with stock steering or get the RR box setup that's at the salvage yard??

 

Isn't that your choice ?


I'm changing mine over so I don't have to deal with cracked gear plates.....this is what I want to do to prevent further issue.

 

It absolutely is my choice, but I would like to make it an educated one!

Let me rephrase it, does this extra.bracket actually take stress of the mounting plate or just the frame? The way I see it , it doesn't do squat for the mounting plate just the frame, maybe.
Is the RR steering better(radius,ratio,feel) then the factory 93 stuff?

 

Radius?? Are you asking,,,Does it make your U-turns tighter NO

Ratio??? NO comment

Feel??? Well that depends. city driving I doubt youd feel the difference.

If your driving on 45mph country roads and on the freakways

 

Got tired of my leaky junk yard gear box.

Went to Seattle and got this.

 

Nice. In stock 3/4 input configuration as well. Any differences in steering feel?

 

Looks good!!!!

Did Harvey rebuild your box, or did he have an existing core in stock to work with?

--Eric

 

I don't know who rebuilt it.

Court ( I believe that is his name ) helped me out on this sale.

The GB above is a off the shelf stock unit.

My old one is still there.

 

May I ask how many dollars??
Does this company ship??