rrgrassi

I pulled the back up light switch connector and was able to confirm that the lights do work. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the purple/black wire at the switch connector, and the lights did light up.

I put the tranny in reverse, and tried to see if the back up light switch would close. No electrical continuity according to the Multi Meter. I have a new switch on order.

Also, there is no power coming from the white wire at the switch connector. Yes, I did have the ignition in the "Run" position.

Where does that wire connect on the fuse panel? I did not find any blown fuses.

Thanks!

thrashingcows

I had reverse light problems at one time too on my NV4500. I checked the switch with a multimeter and it said the switch was in OK shape. I checked all my wiring and it still didn't work. i was stumped at why the lights would not work.

It was my neighbor who said I should try an actual "Test Light" I did this and this time the switch did not work. I bought a new reverse switch and installed, and everything worked.

Not sure why the multimeter showed the switch working, and and actual test light showed other wise?

rrgrassi

They can do some strange things. Since I got a "1" on my multimeter, which means open circuit, I ordered the switch.

I did use a jumper to test to the lights. They worked when connected to the battery, but not from the white to the purple/black wire.

So I need to trace the wire back to the fuse panel. I just do not know where that is on the fuse panel...

Thanks!

crazzywolfie

should be fuse number 13. from what i have found it sounds like the fuse might have blown.

rrgrassi

Cool!!! THANKS!!!!! I do now have my switch to install also.

crazzywolfie

i probably would not replace the reverse light switch if there is nothing wrong with the old one. now if you feel like spending money you should put your backup lights on relays. makes a noticeable difference.

j_martin

A meter is a sensitive instrument, meant to measure the voltage on a circuit without loading (affecting) the circuit itself.

So, if the meter has 20000 ohms/volt sensitivity, and you have it on a 20 v range, the meter resistance is 400,000 ohms. If you're measuring the drop through a dirty switch that has 1000 ohms resistance, it'll measure only a few hundredth of a volt less than the supply.

If you try to power a bulb that has a resistance of 25 ohms with that same switch, the voltage will be 0.3v on the bulb, not enough to even make it glow dimly.

There's your electricity 101 lesson for today.

rrgrassi

Thanks!!!!

The switch was $10. Being that the truck has about 260,000 miles on it, it's a cheap replacement.

The new switch, if the ball bearing barely moves, full continuity on the meter.

crazzywolfie

i hate replacing perfectly good parts even if the new parts are cheap. that old switch most likely could have been good for a million miles where the new one might wear out in less than 260,000 miles. could have put the $10 towards putting your backup lights on a relay. makes big difference.
1 light on a relay and the other 1 running off stock wiring.

thrashingcows

I'll have to read this about 56 times to truly grasp what your saying...never did get electricity 101.

j_martin

Look up ohms law for more information.

Also, I've noticed over the years that ignorance can be cured but stupidity is forever. Your choice.

rrgrassi

I understand that concept. However, the old switch shows an open circuit, even when the ball bearing is pressed in. It does not pass voltage through either. For me, that means a dead switch.