Relay for gauge lights
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The bigger bang for headlight switch relief is to relay the headlights. If you tow, also relay the trailer lights - then adding a few gauge lights is not going to matter to the switch and you retain the dimming function.
Then headlights are what usually melts stuff, but putting in LED lights in the gauges will help as well. They are brighter, but they also draw less power than a standard bulb. You get brighter lights that are still able to be dimmed and take some strain off the switch.
If you relay the head lights it takes a lot of load off the switch and you can upgrade the wire to the head lights so they work better than stock. The voltage drop on the factory harness to the head lights is signifcant due to the small wire cross section.
i have my lights wired to a power distribution block similar to this. The distribution block then has a 40amp relay that switched to come on with the key. It is also the source for my plow controller, brake controller any anything else i want to add in the future.
Both my trucks have the headlights relayed. But on the 2wd I went one step further and tapped into the tail light circuit and put the tail/running lights on a relay. The one I tapped into is only for the rear tail lights, the front running lights aren't on that tap. But this carries the load for any trailers attached also, that was my main concern.
Also all the gauge lights I put LED's in so the added load from them is very very minimal!
Also all the gauge lights I put LED's in so the added load from them is very very minimal!
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've relayed my running lights for my cabover and boat trailer and I guess I'll do the head lights next. Dumb question, can the bulbs be replaced in older gauges with new led type? I'm not all that familiar w/leds.
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