Rear brake upgrade
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Rear brake upgrade
Aloha people,
Just converted the rear brakes on my W 250 per the info in the 'stickies'. It works great however, the pedal takes a longer stroke to work. I understand the larger wheel cylinders require more fluid so.... is there a need to upgrade to a one ton master cylinder to fill up the new rear cylinders in one stroke? Or.... should I just adjust the shoes tighter?....Could I have kept the original W 250 cylinders to have that same 'tight' pedal feel? Thanks guys.
Aloha-
Just converted the rear brakes on my W 250 per the info in the 'stickies'. It works great however, the pedal takes a longer stroke to work. I understand the larger wheel cylinders require more fluid so.... is there a need to upgrade to a one ton master cylinder to fill up the new rear cylinders in one stroke? Or.... should I just adjust the shoes tighter?....Could I have kept the original W 250 cylinders to have that same 'tight' pedal feel? Thanks guys.
Aloha-
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Aloha people,
Just converted the rear brakes on my W 250 per the info in the 'stickies'. It works great however, the pedal takes a longer stroke to work. I understand the larger wheel cylinders require more fluid so.... is there a need to upgrade to a one ton master cylinder to fill up the new rear cylinders in one stroke? Or.... should I just adjust the shoes tighter?....Could I have kept the original W 250 cylinders to have that same 'tight' pedal feel? Thanks guys.
Aloha-
Just converted the rear brakes on my W 250 per the info in the 'stickies'. It works great however, the pedal takes a longer stroke to work. I understand the larger wheel cylinders require more fluid so.... is there a need to upgrade to a one ton master cylinder to fill up the new rear cylinders in one stroke? Or.... should I just adjust the shoes tighter?....Could I have kept the original W 250 cylinders to have that same 'tight' pedal feel? Thanks guys.
Aloha-
Yes, check this first!
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While reading older posts, I have noticed some of us kept the original W 250 cylinders while only upgrading to the 3" shoe. I thought the larger W 350 cylinder was necessary for the upgrade as more pressure was needed for the wider shoe? I did notice the 350 cylinders had a slightly different fitment while mounting them. It may be to accommodate the wider shoe OR it may have just been the brand that I used? It was Raybestos. Anyhow, like I mentioned, after more 'break-in' time and readjusting the shoes tighter, the pedal is rock hard and bites higher. I'm happy with it.
#6
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You used the DODGE 1-ton cylinders, right ??
I have also read of swapping in the GM 1-ton cylinders.
How do the GM 1-ton cylinders compare to the Dodge 1-ton units ??
Which is the better and why ??
Thanks.
I have also read of swapping in the GM 1-ton cylinders.
How do the GM 1-ton cylinders compare to the Dodge 1-ton units ??
Which is the better and why ??
Thanks.
#7
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GM are 1/16" bigger bore.
From the way my STOCK 1 ton Dodge brakes work, I would not want more braking power back there. They already like to lock up on loose surfaces, especially at speeds lower than the ABS will engage.
From the way my STOCK 1 ton Dodge brakes work, I would not want more braking power back there. They already like to lock up on loose surfaces, especially at speeds lower than the ABS will engage.
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Yes, I used the W 350 cylinders. From what I was told, W 250 has a 1" bore whereas a W 350 has a 1 1/8 bore, not enough difference to necessitate larger master. I have also heard of the GM 1 ton cylinder upgrade on our trucks. Like Dave mentioned, it's pretty solid.
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