Pyrometer install

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Aug 7, 2009 | 03:41 PM

raggmann

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 351

Likes: 0

From: Botha,Alberta,Canada

Pyrometer install

Ok, I've been searching for the "proper" place to install my pyrometer probe.
I keep running into:

Quote:

Originally Posted by RollinCoalSmoke

Read the how to sticky on drilling your exhaust for the pyro. There is a divider in the manifold and you need to clear that, one side or the other. Sorry I don't know how to paste the sticky for you here but look it up, there is a world of good info. there. These guys on here have done a fantastic job of compiling info. for us to use. bigbaddiesel you can do all the work yourself by following the stickies. Good luck, and have fun.

I've searched the stickies and haven't found what I need to know. There does not seem to be,or at least I can't find,anything labeled "where to drill your manifold".
Can anyone assit me on this search?

Thanks in advance.

Aug 7, 2009 | 03:52 PM

PADuallyBoy

Registered User

Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 201

Likes: 0

From: Berks County, PA

Drill into your exhaust manifold, on the left side (Rear three cylinder port) of the neck the flange for your turbo. You want it reading the rear 3 cylinders because they're hotter than the front 3. Hopefully this helps, I don't have any picture, maybe someone might have some somewhere.

Aug 7, 2009 | 03:53 PM

cootz

Registered User

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 132

Likes: 0

From: Eckville, Alberta

Here thee be.

http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9&ppuser=44592

Aug 7, 2009 | 03:55 PM

Free89W350

Registered User

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 1,540

Likes: 0

From: Pen Argyl Pennsylvania

here is a good picture from Wannadiesel's gallery

Aug 7, 2009 | 03:56 PM

jimbo486

Registered User

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 4,389

Likes: 114

From: Orange County, California

i would assume the front 3 may run hotter due to the size of the boss around the #1 cylinder. i could very well be wrong though. but that's the typical position of the thermocouple.

Aug 7, 2009 | 04:00 PM

raggmann

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 351

Likes: 0

From: Botha,Alberta,Canada

You guys ROCK.
This post hasn't even been up 20 minutes and I'm ready to be drillin'.

Thanks again,
Ragg

Aug 7, 2009 | 04:33 PM

unixcowboy

Registered User

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 666

Likes: 0

From: Central Mi

PS --

IF you have any letter drills ---
R is exactly the size of an 1/8" NPT tap

Trending Topics

What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

9.2k

1.2M
Want to buy front wheel bearing grease cap fort 1993 Dodge D250

11

167
Interior refresh

12

158
Key on power after external voltage regulator

15

642
Fuel Filler Neck Housing

5

138

Aug 7, 2009 | 04:51 PM

wannadiesel

Adminstrator-ess

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 22,594

Likes: 19

From: New Holland, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbo486

i would assume the front 3 may run hotter due to the size of the boss around the #1 cylinder. i could very well be wrong though. but that's the typical position of the thermocouple.

#5 and #6 are typically the first to scuff the pistons though. That's the thinking behind monitoring the rear port.

Aug 7, 2009 | 05:12 PM

foxtrot

Registered User

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 251

Likes: 1

From: sheet hole called California

does the pyro have to use a solid core wire ? or will stranded work as well ?
I ask because my wire keeps breaking I asume do to the vibrations of the truck.

Aug 7, 2009 | 05:22 PM

#10

93John

Registered User

Joined: Dec 2008

Posts: 130

Likes: 0

From: Lincoln, Illinois

I have solid core wire extension on mine, thats what came with my pyro. But I have seen a lot of regular stranded wire used as well. Do you have your wire zip tied up tight?

Aug 7, 2009 | 05:29 PM

#11

jimbo486

Registered User

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 4,389

Likes: 114

From: Orange County, California

Quote:

Originally Posted by wannadiesel

#5 and #6 are typically the first to scuff the pistons though. That's the thinking behind monitoring the rear port.

any thoughts on why #5 and #6 are the first to do so? are most manifolds typically divided for that particular reason? what about pulse manifolds? never noticed if they're divided or not. i'm almost thinking that they would be so that there are no opposing forces of exhaust gases when they reach the center outlet allowing better flow efficiency? hope that makes sense

Aug 7, 2009 | 05:36 PM

#12

wannadiesel

Adminstrator-ess

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 22,594

Likes: 19

From: New Holland, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbo486

any thoughts on why #5 and #6 are the first to do so?

Poor coolant circulation.

Aug 7, 2009 | 05:38 PM

#13

jimbo486

Registered User

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 4,389

Likes: 114

From: Orange County, California

gotcha! i saw a write up about something that can be mounted to the back of the head in place of the freeze plug to help circulate the coolant better. i can only assume it was one of the gurus on here.

Aug 7, 2009 | 06:38 PM

#14

foxtrot

Registered User

Joined: Jul 2009

Posts: 251

Likes: 1

From: sheet hole called California

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93John

I have solid core wire extension on mine, thats what came with my pyro. But I have seen a lot of regular stranded wire used as well. Do you have your wire zip tied up tight?

The last time it broke was on the back of the gauge.
I called ISSPRO they said use the wire that came with it, I will fix it one more time then try stranded.
Its only broke a couple times but I dont think it should ever break.