Tried to get it on video, but I just can't tell, almost looks like a crack but that could just be a casting line.
I really didn't want to have to take the pump off, I think I sheared the timing pin last time like an idiot.
I bought a good German reseal kit, but I need to find the leak first.
Need my truck!

 

Looks like a crack to me. One way to check is to clean and dry the area very well then apply some talcum powder to the immediate area. The talc will draw any residual fluid out of the crack making it more visible. An old mechanic's trick.

 

I will try that.
Thinking about this pump: 89-93 Dodge Cummins 5.9L THD Competition VE Pump (puredieselpower.com)

 

Knowing what I know now, I wish I had stuck with the stock IP. Just my 2 cents.

 

Did you have trouble?

 

I do have problems. High EGT being the worst. If you change one part in these injection systems, plan on changing everything else to balance it out. A bigger turbo and intercooler would probably help mine. But after being forced into an early retirement, it left me with no money to pay for it. So as the weather permits, which it hasn't, I am going to detune the pump as much as I can. I have already downsized my fuel injectors. That helped only a little. I have an OEM fuel pin ready to put in. Then turn down the fuel.

 

Throw in that OEM fuel pin then. Literally takes 3 minutes, a flat headed screw driver and 2 - 10 MM wrenches is all you need.
A earlier NON intercooled AFC spring will help with making the fuel come on less quickly, which would control EGTs and smoke. Those springs are about $20.

I would have done those two things first before buying new injectors, if I was trying to detune a 12V on a budget.

 

I have too much compressor, more fuel would help. My EGT's with this 62/84 and a 14cm housing are quite low, even with POD's.

 

The injector I replaced had been in 2 different trucks with a lot of miles on them. They were having issues and needed to be replaced anyway. I have to work outside in the dirt. This summer was nothing but storm after storm. Any good days were occupied with more important needs.

I have the same 62mm compressor, where did you get the 84mm turbine wheel and does it require a special turbine housing?

 

62/86, and yes, the biggest housing possible in the H1C frame. Got it from Gillette in Utah. 7 blade also. I had to drop from a 16cm to a 14cm, and I still have trouble lighting it. Need more drive pressure, and I am hoping the cut delivery valves will help.

 

Maybe it's because you are running a manual vs my automatic. Basically, we have the same turbo except I have a 16cm housing. Mine has no lag at all. What is your tire vs gear combination? I'm running 235/75R16s with 3.54 gears. Had a break in the weather and swapped out the fuel pin. Deepest side with the nylon collar. While I was there, I raised the star wheel a full turn. No significant difference. EGT down to 1500° vs 1600°. Better, but still too high. Boost slows down at 40psi but continues to climb to 45 vs straight to 45 before. Power and smoke seem the same. Need to hit the steep hills next. Make a few runs then back off the fuel screw. My idle is too high anyway. I really need to get my intercooler in and out temp gauge hooked up.

 

It's my "rare air". In the summer at the drag strip in Albuquerque the D/A factors at over 10,000 ft, and I live 2,000 ft above that.
I have a hard time getting it to light. With the 6 blade 60mm and the 16cm I had a 4 or 5 second lag, but then it would hit and light the tires.
Now it is a softer, changing to the 14 didn't make much of a difference. I even had it ceramic coated.
Nitrous would help a lot, but I need more fuel!
As it is now, my old engine is still pulling hard and just starting to defuel at 90 when I shift into 5th.

 

Density altitude will do it. I'm pretty much at sea level and mostly standard atmospheric conditions. In the winter we can go well to the negative side on a very cold high-pressure day. I've calculated as much as -7000 feet below sea level more than once. At high density altitudes, you need to decrease your fuel. In other words, you are running to rich. Increasing drive pressure under those conditions is a problem. I would suggest twins.

 

Back from breakfast where I was giving this some more thought. It boils down to two components, fuel and air. They must be held in a relative balance to be efficient. Sence there is little you can do about density altitude; we need to modify fuel delivery to compensate. Sense the problem is off idle spool up, that is what needs to be addressed. Decrease initial fueling to get the wheel spinning, then increase fuel. There are three things I can think of right off that will help. The first is the fuel pin. Do you remember the old M&H M2 pin? It had a 2-stage ramp. Started off at a lower fueling rate then stepped into a higher one as boost pushed it further down. Second is to delay the fuel pin's journey to the bottom. Either by upping the star wheel and or a higher spring rate. And third is changing where the fuel band is in relation to throttle position. That is done with the fuel screw, which is not an accurate label for what it does. There is very interesting thread on here that explains how each of the adjustments actually work and how one person made adjustment in sequence to achieve an efficient balance. Now let's look at the other side. As I said earlier, increasing drive pressure under those conditions is a problem. So why fight it, just use what you have. The fueling adjustments/modifications should have increased it a little, so what can we do with it? Turbine housing would be a great place to start. Sense the 14cm3 didn't make much of a difference (but it did make some), why not go to a waste gated 12 or even a waste gated 9 off an HY35? If you have concerns about the smaller housings being a choke point, you can always open up the bypass port. The main point is to slow initial fuel delivery and help the turbo spool sooner. I used to live near Flagstaff, AZ, so I know how heat and altitude affects a diesel.