The valve guide is what holds the valve stem when it's installed in the head. I haven't looked, but they can most likely be drilled out and replaced in a worst-case-scenario though they can usually be reamed and have a thin bushing installed that is broached to fit the valve stem.

The valve seat is what the closed valve sits on. They too can be replaced by cutting out the old one (assuming any cracks found between the intake/exhaust valve seats aren't too big and any found can be cut out). When one talks about a valve job, it includes grinding and seating (lapping) with clove compound so that each mating surface is the correct size and location on the given part.

The valve face and its mating surface of the valve seat are what's massaged.



The linked image here shows the valve seat (big brass looking circle with the valve guide in the center, again brass in this case) http://www.autoshopracingengines.com...s/DSCN0595.JPG

The valve seal is the little rubber cap that's located on the valve stem, inside the valve spring (assuming they're like the typical set-up.


I'd be real surprised that you find any of the iron components actually need replacement. A simple common re-mating should be all that's needed.

Hope this helps.

 

thanks for the info it really does help

 

What needs attention when porting the head on one of these? I thionk I've heard somewhere that you really need to focus on the exh ports more then the intake but I don't remember for sure or not.

 

For the average Joe with a burr, typically the first inch in the bowl does wonders (mostly blending). One can also streamline the boss around the valve stem guide. Seems I recall there's a boss in the intake side of the head, around the 1st and second cylinder that gets in the way.