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Project Sno Ball ....85 RamCharger

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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 05:10 PM
  #31  
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From: vermont
Originally Posted by MrFusion
A nudge is as good as a wink to blind bat! EH! EH!


'E asked 'im knowingly...
"Say no more, say no more"
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 12:49 AM
  #32  
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So went back across the border to pick up Ol' Sno Ball today. I fired it up and checked the tranny fluid....smelled like burnt clutches...and was low. So i added 3 quarts of fluid and it actually seemed to work OK. I managed to drive it up onto the trailer....was expecting to have to drag it up slowly with a come-a-long....but had to run it up in 4Lo since the plow dragged on the ramps....but it went up and on under it's own power! Still have all the parts coming for the tranny rebuild....but think I'm going to gamble a little....going to do a complete service on the tranny....drain, pull the valve body and adjust the front and rear bands, then replace a couple of the seals, then new filters and fluids and see if the tranny will get by for a year or so.

Getting it across the border from the USA to Canada went surprisingly well.....so once home I began checking things out. Pulled the rear bumper so I could open the hatch, in great shape. Then began pressure washing the engine bay, and underneath etc. once the engine was mostly clean I noticed that it had an older Eddy performer intake, and a 600 holley with Vac secondaries, and electric choke, also has one of those Leece neville 160 amp(?) alternators. But seems to run well enough.

Tomorrow will be service tranny and motor time, and if I have time will pull the wheels to check out and service the brakes....flush and bleed the system as well.
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 07:01 AM
  #33  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
That's darn right cool.....

Put a quart or two of Rislone trans fix in it. The stuff is gooey, and helps cushion seals, clutches and other internal parts. I use it each trans service, and my trans still shifts perfect with 200K and hundreds of plowing hours on it. Makes the trans run really cool.


Put a Derale pan on there, with a Temp gauge to the cab. I used one of the temp senders from autozone which was electrick 1/8" NPT, and it fit perfect. It's a coolant sensor, but temperature is temperature, IMO.....

Great to hear.....
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #34  
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Cows whats involved in getting a vehicle from the US to Canada? I would ask the same question for those who have brought one from Canada to the US?
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:19 AM
  #35  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by freight train
Cows whats involved in getting a vehicle from the US to Canada? I would ask the same question for those who have brought one from Canada to the US?
It's a little more involved now, but still pretty easy.

Once you you have decided on a vehicle, you will need to get a ITN (international trade number). And if your not a USA citizen you will have to use a border broker to file the on-line paper work involved with this. You need the vehicle VIN #, title/reggi #, weight, make model etc. Then they file the paper work on your behalf and you get your number.

Once you have that number you can show up at the USA border with your paper work, ITN, title, bill of sale, you need to file the paper work at least 72 hours before you show up. Then once the 72 hours is up you show up with the vehicle and they do a VIN verification, stamp your paperwork and go.

Canada side you provide the above paper work, fill out a form, pay your taxes and you should be good to go. If the vehicle is newer then 15 years it has to go through a RIV program.

Once in Canada you have to have the vehicle pass a safety inspection, then you can register and insure it.t.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:24 AM
  #36  
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Done a bit of work on Sno Ball....got it brought across the borders and home, went very well with no issues.

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Then started doing some clean up.

Engine bay before.....

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After.....

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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:31 AM
  #37  
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Once home I opened the tranny up and figured I'd do a band adjustment, filter change and replace the selector shaft seal.

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Also added a drain plug...as I always do. Usually get the B&M kit, but NAPA has the exact same unit for about half the price.

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There is a small dimple where the magnet goes over to help keep it in place. I drill out the center of that to about 9/16, the hammer the dimple flat, then re-drill and install the drain. Magnet fits fine behind it and does not interfere with the dip stick.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:40 AM
  #38  
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Thought I remembered how to adjust the bands....tightened them up to 72 inch/lbs and then sealed up the tranny, filled it and fired it up. Well it would not move! Thought the e-brake seized up so pull the rear drums and made sure the cables were free.....still no moving.

Took me a bit to figure out what I had done wrong. Then actually checked the FSM to double check the band adjustment, and realized that once at 72 in/lbs you have to back the band adjustment off a certain number of turns....Doooh! So had to drain the tranny and pull the pan so I could re-adjust things properly. Thanks goodness for the drain plug I just installed...

Once adjusted properly the tranny seems to work great! Don't think it will need a rebuild anytime soon....hopefully.

But I think I have figured out why the fluid smelled so burnt...at least once of the reasons...

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Tranny line is resting right on the exhaust pipe! Some poor dual exhaust installation. Will see if I can adjust the pipe away, if not then I will install one of those heat socks you can use on spark plug wires if too close to headers or manifolds.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:48 AM
  #39  
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The rear bumper was bent up.....and because of that the rear hatch would not open.

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So pulled the rear bumper....all the bolts broke which was nice. And got the hatch open.

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My friend/neighbour and I beat the thing back into basic shape with some big dunnage, couple sledge hammers and hammer and dolly.

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The bumper was pretty beat, so also required some re-welding.



Coat of light grey paint and installed it back on.

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Not sure if I like the light grey...was looking for silver but could not find it in Tremclad brush on. Might re-paint it later, or see if I can find a more RC-esque type rear bumper.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #40  
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While was under the truck I had to pull the old gear reduction starter to pull the inspection cover to see if there was a drain plug on the torque converter...I never get one of those. Anyway since I had the starter out I figured I would toss that old 15lb beast and install one of my Junk yard high torque mini starters.

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Haven't done much since then, other then order some needed parts, and dip into my parts stash for some more needed parts.

Getting to crunch time for the move, so not much spare time.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #41  
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The things we do for fun Gonna be a heck of a project.
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 02:00 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows

Not sure if I like the light grey...was looking for silver but could not find it in Tremclad brush on. Might re-paint it later, or see if I can find a more RC-esque type rear bumper.
Tremclad aluminum might be what you are looking for, here's a pic I took while building a hitch on my boat trailer. The tremclad is at the front of the trailer. If not a Westin surstep bumper looks good on these trucks IMO

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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 05:55 AM
  #43  
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This will be a cool setup.

I know next to nothing about auto trannys other than adjusting bands. What is the silver plate hanging down and why? Can't you adjust the bands without taking that off?
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 07:30 AM
  #44  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by KRB
This will be a cool setup.

I know next to nothing about auto trannys other than adjusting bands. What is the silver plate hanging down and why? Can't you adjust the bands without taking that off?
That's the valve body. Not sure why he's got it a hangin.....

TC ?
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 10:53 AM
  #45  
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by KRB
This will be a cool setup.

I know next to nothing about auto trannys other than adjusting bands. What is the silver plate hanging down and why? Can't you adjust the bands without taking that off?
Originally Posted by NJTman
That's the valve body. Not sure why he's got it a hangin.....

TC ?
Yes that is the valve body, and it's hanging by the park rod, and it's hanging because you have to pull it down and swing it out of the way to replace the selector shaft seal.

Also if you can't find a drain plug on your torque converter, loosening, or pulling down the valve body will allow about half the torque converter to drain back through.
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