Wouldn't it be easier to put a new set of rings on the pistons to control you original problem? I know it would not be as much fun though.

I sure wish the 6BT was designed to take a liner like the big boys do, then we would be talking about doing inframes.

Why not evacuate the vapors using a scavenger pump and inject them into the exhaust downstream of the turbo where the gasses are still hot enough to vaporize them, shouldn’t have much smell then.

For RV’s there used to be a system that took the waste from the septic tank and used the heat of the exhaust to incinerate it or maybe cremate it.
I have been behind some big tour busses that had exhaust that smelled like diesel and a hint of poop.

I am sure if you got too much vacuum in the crankcase that it could rob you of your power.

 

I've considered making a centrifuge type catch-can should it prove necessary. Perhaps a common soup can bombed such that the engine vapors would enter the top-side of the can about it's perimeter, and spiral out through a centrally located exit in the top of the can. Maybe a 1/4" open drain-line.




This is what happens when you're on-call, nobody's calling, and you've got a cool CTD sitting in the backyard. But then again, we're aliens, and that's how we roll.


Well Jim, . . . . if you've not caught on, I seem to have issues with just changing the rings so to speak. I'd figure that while I'm in there, I'd just as well ~
- Go with some after-market pistons, relieved to accommodate the appropriate cam of course.
- Trick connecting rods with rod studs no doubt.
- Main bearing studs.
- A girdle to tie the main bearing bosses to the block.
- Radius all sharp edges inside and out.
- Perhaps paint the interior with some electric motor winding enamel.
- Dry sump . .. ? But that would mean a trick accessory drive-belt system.


But then all that would mean the long-block could now readily handle a wee-bit more power and RPMs.


Ya see?

My name is David, and I'm a CTD junky.

 

Keep a close eye on that air filter. I think that with the blowby coming in before the filter you are going to wind up with a oil soaked filter in a pretty short period of time. If I was going to route my breathers to the intake I'd do it after the filter.

Why not use an oil that doesn't stink, like Delvac 1300?

 

Oh I'll be monitoring the air filter. I'm not 100% convinced the mess will stay as is. I've some jerk in the back of my head that keeps hollering about all the danged plumbing in the way.

I'm currently running Amsoil in the engine. As expensive as it was, it'll be there a while.

 

I like the info so far that I read about this... I am just wondering why no one ever uses a universal oil filter spin on adapter with a oil filter. The filter will catch all the oil and you will have no mess. Al you would have to do is replace it every so often and you are good to go.

 

Most likely becacuse that would be to easy.

 

Too restrictive.

 

Very interesting. Why you say that.?

 

You are trying to get the crankcase pressure down to atmospheric. A filter is by nature restrictive.

 

I do see what you are saying. I just trying to figure out what I am going to do about mine and reading and searching..

 

As long as we're on the blow-by subject, decidedly low-tech, but if you are just unhappy about a post-park drip on the floor you can do something like this:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_112.jpg

That's a Coors Gold can, BTW - arguably one of the worst beers on the planet.

 

Do you get any oil around the can? or that come out of it from the mist?

 

http://www.maesco.com/products/racor...ccv_intro.html
I THINK THIS IS WHAT YOUR LOOKING FOR

 

thanks I never seen this before. But yes I think you got it..

Now I have to figure out what cfm we are talking about?

 

No, it just collects the few drops that drain down the tube after shutdown. And my engine's not making enough blow-by to accumulate anything there at all yet. I suppose if anything ends up residual in the can that will be a good indicator someday.