1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Out of fuel

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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Out of fuel

Truck ran out of fuel, put in 3 gallons. Where is the fuel filter at so I can fill that? (1992 12 valve)

Second, if this doesn't work, do I need to bleed the air from my fuel lines, and how do I go about doing that?

Thanks, Nick
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
There is lever on fuel pump left side of block near starter. Just operate that for a few minutes and it should prime the system enough to start. If no resistance is felt you might have to bump starter to get fuel pump lever on low spot of cam.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 08:17 PM
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prime the heck out of it til you feel less resistance from priming, then loosen all the injector lines off the injectors about a turn (with 17mm wrench) then turn truck over til you get a good stream of fuel coming out of each injector. Then tighten them back up and should start right up.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nfc90
Truck ran out of fuel, put in 3 gallons. Where is the fuel filter at so I can fill that? (1992 12 valve)

Second, if this doesn't work, do I need to bleed the air from my fuel lines, and how do I go about doing that?

Thanks, Nick

If you can't find the fuel-filter, I doubt you will recognize the lift-pump they speak of, so I will try to walk you through it.


Both the fuel-filter and lift-pump are located on the left/larboard/port/near/driver side of the engine.

On the left side of the engine, centrally located, hidden behind the throttle-linkage bracket, should be the factory-issue fuel-filter.

If it is a standard un-molested factory-issue filter, there will be a two-wire pig-tail connected to the bottom of the filter.

This will need be un-plugged before spinning the filter off; the wires connect to the "water in fuel" warning light on the dash.


The lift-pump is aft of the fuel-filter, lower and closer to the fire-wall.

On the side of the lift-pump is a priming lever.

Working this lever up and down manually operates the lift-pump.


If you get good resistance to the lever strokes and it is pumping a healthy stream of fuel, with a healthy battery, NO BLEEDING of the injectors is necessary.


Just pump her up good and she should fire off.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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Thanks guys, I ended up finding the lift pump and filter Thursday night. Had to get the truck towed bc I didn't have the right size wrenches with me, but I'm gonna get her running today.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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Got a minute?

On the outlet side of the filter area of the head is a banjo bolt with a 10mm air bleed bolt.
Crack this bolt, plus 2-3 turns.
Work the fuel pump prime lever until this bolt runs diesel fuel out in a good stream (no air).
Follow the line from this fitting and you'll find where it is screwed to the injection pump.
It's right behind the timing case and is pretty easy to get to.
Loosen that flare nut (14mm) and again work the lever until clear fuel runs out.
Re-tighten the nut.

Now, take an 18mm wrench and crack each INJECTOR line, at the injector, open about a 1/2 turn.
Crank the engine until each injector line shoots fuel at least a foot from the nut.
Re-tighten the lines and attempt to fire the truck.
Once it fires, it may run rough, but it will smooth out with some time running.

DO NOT attempt to just crank the engine to get the injection sytem to prime up, as this is running the head and rotor totally dry on fuel and can hasten wear and score both.

There is a good reason that Cummins made priming the system easier by having a hand pump lever on the lift pump, and the above reason is it.

Running out of fuel sucks, so it's nice to know how to get it flowing again.
If it becomes a habit, I'd suggest an electric pump to make the re-fuel process quicker.

Mark.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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Ok I'd got another problem......how to physically fit the 18mm wrench through the injector lines to reach the nuts. Seems that I can't quite get the wrench on there coming in from every which way.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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From: Palmyra, Nebraska
You have to kinda' come in at an angle from above them.
They "shouldn't" be all that tight.

Mark.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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Ok, thanks Mark
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 06:01 PM
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Best is a "crows-foot" line-wrench.
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