Oil burning mode of motoring
#1
Oil burning mode of motoring
Hi,I am new to this oil burning mode of motoring. I just bought a 1991 CTD auto 350 4X2 dually hoping it will tow my horse trailer and JD tractors with better results then my Ford F-350 4X4 with a 351. So far I noticed the CTD truck is not a speed demon but appears to pull the hills better. What should I expect when I finally start to pull a trailer? Also is the rear end a 3.07?
#2
Adminstrator-ess
Re:Oil burning mode of motoring
Welcome, green one ;D
Does your truck have an overdrive switch? If not, you have 3.07 gears. You can wring a lot more power out of your Dodge for very little money, poke around in the Tech facts section. Just make sure you get gauges before you start.
Does your truck have an overdrive switch? If not, you have 3.07 gears. You can wring a lot more power out of your Dodge for very little money, poke around in the Tech facts section. Just make sure you get gauges before you start.
#4
Adminstrator-ess
Re:Oil burning mode of motoring
Yeah, it will tow fine. Remember that this engine peaks about 2000 RPM lower than your 351 did. If you had 4.10's in this truck, you'd have a hard time going 65.
#5
Registered User
Re:Oil burning mode of motoring
Is there no data plate under the hood?..on the front clip somewhere showing the diff ratio?....3.07 sounds high for a 1 ton...but I could be wrong...
Congrats on the purchase, although I haven't pulled/carried a lot of weight, I have found my truck, which I love so much, really doesn't pay a whole bunch of attention or run much different or burn more fuel with or without the weight...it loves to work! Does that make sense?...
Congrats on the purchase, although I haven't pulled/carried a lot of weight, I have found my truck, which I love so much, really doesn't pay a whole bunch of attention or run much different or burn more fuel with or without the weight...it loves to work! Does that make sense?...
#6
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Re:Oil burning mode of motoring
Rip out your old air box and get a BHAF (big honkin air filter), you can read about it hear.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=12110
Take a sawzall to your exhaust, right behind the muffler, until you have money for an after market exhaust. The pipe is just about pinched off over the axle.
Take off the top cover of the pump housing (4 large flat, standard screws), gently lift the rubber diaphram out, take out the large spring, turn the metal pin with the cone shape (AFC Pin) , 90 deg clockwise so the steepest part of the cone is centered on the pin that is in the hole towards the front of the engine. Don't move the throttle, without the AFC pin in place. Put everything back together.
Think seriously about a pyrometer gauge. This will at least tell you when it is ok to shut down, to get the most life out of the turbo. When you get it, you can get directions here on installation.
If you seek more power after you take care of these, add a boost gauge to the pyro, and these guys will surprise you.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=12110
Take a sawzall to your exhaust, right behind the muffler, until you have money for an after market exhaust. The pipe is just about pinched off over the axle.
Take off the top cover of the pump housing (4 large flat, standard screws), gently lift the rubber diaphram out, take out the large spring, turn the metal pin with the cone shape (AFC Pin) , 90 deg clockwise so the steepest part of the cone is centered on the pin that is in the hole towards the front of the engine. Don't move the throttle, without the AFC pin in place. Put everything back together.
Think seriously about a pyrometer gauge. This will at least tell you when it is ok to shut down, to get the most life out of the turbo. When you get it, you can get directions here on installation.
If you seek more power after you take care of these, add a boost gauge to the pyro, and these guys will surprise you.
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