Noob questions
Noob questions
Ok, I have never owned a Cummins before let alone a Dodge truck. I got a 90 Dodge 250 truck pretty decent few bumps and scrapes but works well. But I have some questions that are pretty basic but bear with me.
Where is the fuse box? My turn signals and brake lights don't work so I am thinking its a fuse.
Where is the jack usually stored? I found the rods under the hood on the passenger side but not that jack itself.
What causes that metal door pin wear out(in the door frame that the latch grabs)? The guy I got it from said it needs to be replaced every few months.
How hard is it to adjust the fuel? One website I went to made it seem simple but when I went to look at the pump I realized it wasn't very simple for a noobie to Cummins.
I had a 6.2 POS diesel and that was pretty easy to mess with the timing and fuel screw but this is new to me but once I learn I am sure it will be easy.
Where is the fuse box? My turn signals and brake lights don't work so I am thinking its a fuse.
Where is the jack usually stored? I found the rods under the hood on the passenger side but not that jack itself.
What causes that metal door pin wear out(in the door frame that the latch grabs)? The guy I got it from said it needs to be replaced every few months.
How hard is it to adjust the fuel? One website I went to made it seem simple but when I went to look at the pump I realized it wasn't very simple for a noobie to Cummins.
I had a 6.2 POS diesel and that was pretty easy to mess with the timing and fuel screw but this is new to me but once I learn I am sure it will be easy.
Fusebox is under the steering column. It should be clipped into the trim piece just below the column - but it can't have gotten far from there.
The jack is hiding out under the coolant recovery tank, near the air filter.
A badly misadjusted door would wear out the pin.
Adjusting the pump is the easy part, figuring how to get tools in there to do it is what's hard. Taking the throttle linkage bracket off the side of the engine makes things much easier.
The jack is hiding out under the coolant recovery tank, near the air filter.
A badly misadjusted door would wear out the pin.
Adjusting the pump is the easy part, figuring how to get tools in there to do it is what's hard. Taking the throttle linkage bracket off the side of the engine makes things much easier.
Alright thanks. Only other question i have right now is about the rear axle. What axle did they come from the factory with? And I was told it has a posi but it doesn't seem to really engage cause in a little bit of gravel it seems to spin the tires a bit. I was thinking of swapping it out for a GM 14bolt FF thats locked for added traction that I will need when I got to Wyotech cause it should be pretty snowy in the winter.
You have 3.07 gears. Pull the diff cover to check whether or not it's a limited slip. It may just need a new set of clutches.
You won't want a locked rear. These things are hard enough to drive in the snow without the rear end trying to step out all the time.
You won't want a locked rear. These things are hard enough to drive in the snow without the rear end trying to step out all the time.
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Alright so I know nothing about towing I will admit it.
Checked the fuses and they are still good and I don't have turn signals or brake lights. Going to clean the terminals see if that helps.
Checked the fuses and they are still good and I don't have turn signals or brake lights. Going to clean the terminals see if that helps.
Your turn signals and brake lights might just be the bulbs burnt out. They are dual filiment bulbs (can be picked up at any auto parts store) and when one of the filaments burns out, it can cause the lights to not work. This is what happened with my truck, I had no brake lights, replaced the bulbs, bam! Brake lights work perfectly
DTR's "Cooler than ice cubes 14 miles North of North Pole" member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 9
From: 14mi North of North Pole
Laramie dosen't get that much snow. A few big drifts every now and then but the wind that makes them usually will take care of them as well ( I graduated there in '96)
Well one of the light bulbs in the rear looks burned out guess I'll pick up a new one and some spares.
Oh yeah my truck came from Canada originally so the speedo is in KM if I got another gauge cluster it should swap in easy without a problem right? I don't think it would since its the same thing basically just the numbers are reversed on the speedo.
Oh yeah my truck came from Canada originally so the speedo is in KM if I got another gauge cluster it should swap in easy without a problem right? I don't think it would since its the same thing basically just the numbers are reversed on the speedo.
Here's my 2 cents on the rear end
I would do what Wanna said about checking the clutches on the dana LSD.
I have a gm 14 bolt and a 307 dana 70 and I'm doing an engine swap inta my motorhome, anyway here is the delema.
If you decide to go with the 14, the issue will be the ratio that the rear end has. They mostly come with a 456 and that will rev the you know what out of your cummins, especialy with the 727 (No OD). If you find a 14, make sure it is a 410 or less to start with. These 14's have a different case, carrier and thickness of gear which will allow you to go with a 321 or so. The 456 and up 14's have a different case, carrier and thickness of gear that won't allow you to install a 321.
Sooooooo.....
Stick with the Dana 70. It put me at ease seeing what people are pulling with them too, and the ring gear is 10.5 inches too.
You can take your vin and get the build sheet from a dealer to see if you have an lsd rear or not. It's also nice to see what the truck came with anyway.
As for the lights, the best way to diagnose for me is to take a test light or multimeter and start from the rear and work your way up to the front of the truck. If you check the sockets for power and they have none then start looking for busted wires behind the rear wheels. My dad had problems with this as he always drove on gravel roads. Electronics are easy just be mythodical and patient and make sure your test light works.
Good luck
Eric
I would do what Wanna said about checking the clutches on the dana LSD.
I have a gm 14 bolt and a 307 dana 70 and I'm doing an engine swap inta my motorhome, anyway here is the delema.
If you decide to go with the 14, the issue will be the ratio that the rear end has. They mostly come with a 456 and that will rev the you know what out of your cummins, especialy with the 727 (No OD). If you find a 14, make sure it is a 410 or less to start with. These 14's have a different case, carrier and thickness of gear which will allow you to go with a 321 or so. The 456 and up 14's have a different case, carrier and thickness of gear that won't allow you to install a 321.
Sooooooo.....
Stick with the Dana 70. It put me at ease seeing what people are pulling with them too, and the ring gear is 10.5 inches too.
You can take your vin and get the build sheet from a dealer to see if you have an lsd rear or not. It's also nice to see what the truck came with anyway.
As for the lights, the best way to diagnose for me is to take a test light or multimeter and start from the rear and work your way up to the front of the truck. If you check the sockets for power and they have none then start looking for busted wires behind the rear wheels. My dad had problems with this as he always drove on gravel roads. Electronics are easy just be mythodical and patient and make sure your test light works.
Good luck
Eric
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