non I/C radiator to I/C radiator swap.....?
#2
Registered User
Please fill out your Signature with your truck info...helps us know how to answer a lot of questions.
But assuming you have an 89/90..early 91 non-IC truck that is still sporting the original rad support. You will have a bit of a job. The IC rad uses brakets on the bottom of the rad support to hold it in place...then the upper bracket off the top of the core support for the top. Not sure if you can make this work?
The rest is rad hoses, thermostate housing, fan shroud, fan, fan hub, and clutch.
I personally went the other direction...but a non-IC rad into an IC rad support.
But assuming you have an 89/90..early 91 non-IC truck that is still sporting the original rad support. You will have a bit of a job. The IC rad uses brakets on the bottom of the rad support to hold it in place...then the upper bracket off the top of the core support for the top. Not sure if you can make this work?
The rest is rad hoses, thermostate housing, fan shroud, fan, fan hub, and clutch.
I personally went the other direction...but a non-IC rad into an IC rad support.
#4
Registered User
If you swap out the rad support with an IC unit then the swap would be easier...but you would still need all the other components to swap things properly.
My guess is your considering this because you need a new rad for your truck. And the $500= for the non-IC unit is almost twice the cost for an IC rad....am I close? But the added cost for all the other components will be far more then just paying the money for a new Non-IC rad.
Look into a re-core...last one I had done was about $300.
My guess is your considering this because you need a new rad for your truck. And the $500= for the non-IC unit is almost twice the cost for an IC rad....am I close? But the added cost for all the other components will be far more then just paying the money for a new Non-IC rad.
Look into a re-core...last one I had done was about $300.
#5
Registered User
You can find a 3-row, Spectra (?), i/c radiator on Rock Auto for about $200. Hoses and the thermostat kit are cheap. Thrashingcows is correct listing all of what you'd need iIf you choose to go through with it. If you do, I'll provide you an ESN from an i/c engine you can take to Cummins to get the correct thermostat housing.
I've personally done the non i/c to i/c swap between my '90 and '91.5 trucks in my sig. I created a thread here as the project took place.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...p-t292649.html
I've personally done the non i/c to i/c swap between my '90 and '91.5 trucks in my sig. I created a thread here as the project took place.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...p-t292649.html
#6
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Anyone know the BTU rating of each of them? which one will extract more heat aside from the IC being crossflow, are the oil coolers the same?
Just wondering, I had a custom high density core (domestic brass not Chinesse) hand soldered and reenforced built for mine when it started to leak.
It did not cost that much money.
Jim
Just wondering, I had a custom high density core (domestic brass not Chinesse) hand soldered and reenforced built for mine when it started to leak.
It did not cost that much money.
Jim
#7
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If you swap out the rad support with an IC unit then the swap would be easier...but you would still need all the other components to swap things properly.
My guess is your considering this because you need a new rad for your truck. And the $500= for the non-IC unit is almost twice the cost for an IC rad....am I close? But the added cost for all the other components will be far more then just paying the money for a new Non-IC rad.
Look into a re-core...last one I had done was about $300.
My guess is your considering this because you need a new rad for your truck. And the $500= for the non-IC unit is almost twice the cost for an IC rad....am I close? But the added cost for all the other components will be far more then just paying the money for a new Non-IC rad.
Look into a re-core...last one I had done was about $300.
Bingo..... I think re- core it is....
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#8
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Well I couldn't get anyone to do a re-core. Everyone wanted to sell me a new. So I finally got a new one from Keystone $301 to my door, which was cheaper by about $100 than anyone else.
I did notice that the new rad is about a row thinner than my old one. Hopefully it won't be a problem, the only towing I do is the racecar.
I did notice that the new rad is about a row thinner than my old one. Hopefully it won't be a problem, the only towing I do is the racecar.
#9
Ive done it before on a non ic truck. basically take a hole sw I dont remember the size to drill two holes in the bottom lip of the core support for the rubbers to slip into then cut about 3" off the factory rad mounts for the new rad to fit nice up top you'll see what I mean. then drill some holes to mount the top rad brackets to the core support. then change the thermostat housing upper hose fan hub fan blades and mount the fan shroud. or run an electric fan like I did n keep the stock non ic fan bracket n pulley.
#10
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the fan shroud is the hard part to find, you can make one, also the non ic fan support is offset, the later fan is larger, 22", i ebay'ed the tstat housing. i had a modified non ic radiator that still ran the engine hot, the ic radiator eliminated higher temps, i rarely get the fan clutch to lock up now, much improved.
#11
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when I did my swap I just cut my non I/C core support at the top ,drilled the cross member for the lower rad mounts and made 2 brackets for the top supports ,later I used a 24v fan and had a HVAC buddy build me a custom shroud I also just used 3 90* bends for the upper rad hose till I found a I/C Tstat housing. It turned out looking good and sure cools better .but its still not enough for heavy towing my next mod will be a second gen rad, NV5600 swap.I am pulling things together and doing my home work I want the factory look and not rat droppings
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