Any one have some idea what could have cause the power door locks and windows to stop working then at the same time on both doors.

Heres what i've checked so far without an electrical diagram and the drivers window stuck down. Fuses look good and have 12.46 volt at both switchs on the driverside and also have voltage across the driver door lock switch with lock and unlock throws, check and clean grounds at the battery, front clip, fire wall and two points under dash. Checked ground continuity from driver door to cab and is good. And also check wiring harness connections under dash and hood. Havent check the passenger door switches since seeming like a commom fault with both doors.

This occurred over the last few weeks with the locks and windows working about every other time the truck was used and sometimes the locks would work with the drivers door open then as soon it was close the locks quit working. Did remove the drivers door panel to check connection at lock motor which was good.

Thanks for the help,

 

The contacts in the switches on your passenger's door are probably corroded. The circuit goes through the switches on both doors at the same time -- Or maybe you have a bad wire over on the passengers side, since both functions aren't working -- but if you are lucky, taking those switches apart and giving them a good cleaning will solve the problem for no $$.

 

If you've lost power in both doors, then problem would have to be in the drivers side door or prior to that. The power supply goes to the driver's side first and then over to the passenger side. If the problem was only in the passenger side, then the problem would be there, but seeing the problem appears to be on both sides, then the problem has to be on the drivers side.
I would recheck the grounds through the switches. The circuits, I'm almost sure that they are ground activated.

 

Oh well,

Made friends again with my drive door panel and almost a pro at getting the darn thing off now but getting back on will take much more practice, hopely that won't happen.

Checked the passenger side switches other than a little road grim all were fine with proper voltage at switches and when toggled but dont really understand why when the switch is cycled in the up position, the down side of the switch will have 12 volts and is also the same when toggled the other way.

And again remove the drive door panel and checked wire harness going direcly to the window motor at the connector had 12 volts on both leads and also found no chaffing of the visible harnesses.

Really looks like i'm going to have too get my hands on a wiring diagram of the door lock and window circuits to make this go way.

So much for the easy solutions, thanks guys but still need a rain coat for the rainy days.

Thanks again

 

Recheck with a test light. You can have lots of resistance and still show 12 volts on a multimeter because there's no load. The only time I use a multimeter is on computer stuff and to check resistance.

 

This is probably something you have already checked but I got a wierd deja-vu feeling when I heard your problem. I had the same condition happen - and I think I remember that there was a problem with my fuse box. It may have been one of those little circuit breakers which replace the fuse. I was very tired when it happened and I may not remember things quite right. I do remember that the solution had nothing to do with the actual devices which stopped working.

 

I remember this being a problem for me when I trouble-shot my bad door lock switch problem.

 

I had this problem on a GM car several years ago. I finally found a broken wire in the wiring loom that ran from the door to the pillar. Everything tested fine, when I had it apart. But....when I had it apart, the door was open & the broken wire apparently was making enough contact. A very frustrating ordeal!! Just thought I'd throw in my .02 from a past experience.

 

the fuse box has 4 main leads coming in from under the hood, 2 full power 2 keyed power I believe. The door/window one must be weak, cuz the fuseable link burned up on my truck, and it kept blowing 30A fuses when I tried to just redo it with a new one. I eventually rewired it and now my windows and door locks have power all the time.

 

All is well boys and girls,

Just made a 315 mile drive this afternoon with a tail wind coming out of Kansas, driving at 68 to 71 mph in mostly light traffic with a 10 minute idle then a few stop/goes and the fuel gauge is just a hair line under 1/2 tank, best truck i've ever had.

And yep, found broken black 12 ga wire in the wire loop from the drivers door to the cab, broke right where the wire loop flexs the most when the door opens and closes, which appears to provide the grounding side of the door lock and window circuits.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

Glad you found your problem!