First pic is of what i seem to think is the gov screw?
if i losen the lock nut and back that sucker out will i gain much rpm? or will the throtle pedal just max at the floor? im thinking i could get 2-300 more rpm's.

 

picture #2 is showing what i belive to be the fuel screw.(if i turn this in i should get more boot/power and may need to turn the idle down i think)

it no longer has the lock colar on it from what i can tell because all i see is the screw (showing 3/4 in threads) and the lock nut.

is 3/4 in threads normal for showing for stock settings?

(i did see the idle screw tucked way back in there)

 

Congratulations! You've passed VE Pump Adjustment Identification 101! The high idle screw (aka governor screw) can give you a little more RPM. Back the screw out until the linkage can't touch it, then thread it back in enough so that the screw stops the linkage, not the insides of the pump. Don't want to mess up that pretty new pump, do we? You may need to adjust the throttle linkage either at the turnbuckle by the pump or by bending the accelerator pedal arm in order to get the linkage to go all the way to the stop by pushing the pedal.

I don't know that there is a "normal" for stock settings on the main fuel screw, go ahead and play with it, let the pyrometer be your guide. With the 21 cm housing you probably won't be able to turn it up much. And yes, you'll need to adjust the idle speed after you play with the fuel screw.

 

I turned my fuel screw in, got more power, but couldn't get to the idle screw. How do you adjust it w/o removing the pump? Just when i turned it up and went for a test drive with the idle it kept gaining rpm w/o me doin anything. Had to turn it off 3 times to get home(3 blocks) got back and after turning it back down i noticed the throttle return spring was broke. Was this part of my problem. Not turnin' it back up til i figure the idle screw though.

 

ive read some guys have just grinded the end of the idle screw down to lower it. other have made some sweet tools. there was a pic on tdr with a set up im going to make.

does turning the fuel screw at all(even a lil bit) need idle adjustment?

jiMMy

 

When we did my pump the weekend before last, we got to the idle screw with a center punch and a few taps on the 10mm lock nut to get it loose. From there you can back the lock nut off with your finger and adjust the idle screw. There's a slot on the back side of the idle screw for a flathead screwdriver...but at all angles, I couldn't get a screwdriver into the slot and be able to turn it with the lines in the way. We took one side of the throttle shaft off, then opened the lever to full throttle, and adjusted the idle screw with a pair of needle-nose pliers from the front side.

In the future, I'm either going to flip the idle screw around so I can access the slot on the end with a screwdriver from the front...or tack weld another nut on the back end of the idle screw to adjust it with a 10mm wrench. Unless of course someone has a better way of getting to it.

In my new-found power upgrades and excitement, we forgot to tighten the lock nut back, over the past week my idle has been rising. Today I popped the hood and the lock nut was about to fall off...so it was hammered back into place and it idles good again.

hope that helps

 

If you flip the idle screw wouldn't the end ware and cause problems turnin it. The grinding sounds like the route i'm gonna take. Didn't think of that.

 

Be careful... if you were experiencing RPM climb without applying throttle pressure you are the ragged edge ( I mean REAL close!!) of runaway....

pb

 

Could the broken return spring cause that? It didn't run away til the second stop sign.