;D

I am looking at purchasing a 93 D250 w/Auto. Truck has 214,000 miles on it. Body is fair, nothing that can't be fixed.

Here is what I found on first Inspection:
1. AC is overcharged
2. Rear Hub is leaking all over rear drums. Need to rebuild rear brakes and change seals?
3. Center Link and strut Rod(?) bushings are shot. Need to replace.
4. Fuel pump (rear drivers side of block) is weeping heavily. Is this an expensive repair?
5. Fuel Injectors are weeping/oozing around O-rings/Grommets. Should I have them cleaned while thy are out? Who do you recommend.

What is a fair price for a truck in this condition?

Thanks JOhn in South Carolina

 

Just for some comparison, I saw a real decent looking C/Cab in my neck of the woods with around 240,000 miles, auto, well maintained for $6500Cdn.
I paid a heck of a bunch more than that for mine, but it had a few goodies and some $ thrown at it before I bought it.

 

Sounds like simple but annoying ,time consuming repairs. The fuel/ lift pump is $40 or so if you look up some of the advertisers here. Curious what is being asked for the truck? My 93 250 with 72k, auto, some xtras ,tow goodies, pretty much perfect in and out was purchased for 7k two years ago. Im at 106k now and have considered selling for a first gen 4x4.
Good luck!!

 

Don't let the high miles scare you on the engine anyway.. The rest is like you said repairable.

1. AC Shouldn't be too much trouble once you have it blead down to the right level. Question is why is it overcharged?

2. Rear hub leaks may entail bearings if the drums have never been off. The drums/hub are all one piece on these rigs and just checking the brakes requires pulling the axle shafts and bearing assembly. Seals are cheap.

3. Steering, been down that road. : If the center link is toast I would also look at the ball joints if its a 2wd. These trucks are netorious for eating ball joints. The reason I say this is that if the truck was ever in for an alignment, they would have checked the center link as well as the ball joints. They probably never have been looked at. Go MOOG...

4. Fuel pumps are easy, just did mine (lift pump thread). I don't know about $40.. Mine was $150 CAD from Cummins and was about 1.5X that at DC. ??? Anyway if its leaking oil, gasket. Leaking fuel, replace pump.

5. There is no reason for the injectors to be wet at all. They are dry inserted into the head. The moisture may be from leaking tappet covers. If you have the injectors out anyway, do a compression test to ensure the engine is still good.

Price...... Well thats dependant on the market, ie location. I can't speak to a good price in USD.. :-

IF you need any info, it will be here.

J-eh

 

;D

Got the truck last night!!! Gave 3200 USD for it.

Stopped by and got the center link, strut rod bushings and the low ball joints.

I'll change those out Sat. and change the oil.
I plan on running rotella for a short time and switching to synthetic. Good Plan?

 

Congrats!..smart move, you won't regret it. Consider sending a sample of your existing oil to a company that does Oil analysis, establish a baseline and go from there. Synthetic is good...especially up here in the frostie North. I have an Oil analysis of Amsoil after 30,000kms of use and the tests show "no maintenance action required at this time". I changed it anyways but a good indication of the extended life of a good synthetic oil.

 

Also have the BAHF coming in sat. Printed out the mounting template and will cut the bracket with the plasma cutter toniight

 

Don't waste the metal! That template is only for 2nd gen trucks. Maybe some guys who didn't spring for the Old Smoky mount can chime in here and tell how they mounted their BHAF?

 

OK, plasma cutter is turned off. Thanks for the tip

I had the tranny flushed out today with 14 QTS new ATF, via the double sided piston method. Changed the oil

I ordered 3 oil sample kits from Oilguard, I have the oil sample that was in the truck b4 I changed as a baseline.

Sat. will be a busy day.