My overdrive is acting stupid
#1
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My overdrive is acting stupid
When I go down the highway I have to let off the pedal to get it to go into overdrive. Then at around 50 it will down shift into third. I have to really mash on it then let out and it goes back. I’ve looked through the faq but seen nothing similar. Thanks in advance
#2
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Just to be a poophead, I have to put in my $.02 worth. I don't like those automagic things behind my Cummins. My 5 speed runs fine and other than a worn shifter has never given me any problems. And it only shifts into overdrive when I want it too.
Edwin
Edwin
#3
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I'm with Edwin, but I believe that there is an adjustment to the cable that affects this, hopefully a much more learned member will chime in...Mark
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edwinsmith (02-07-2019)
#4
Administrator
Here is a youtube of the tvs cable adjustment:
and this in the sticky:
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/tps-adjust.jpg
...Mark
and this in the sticky:
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/tps-adjust.jpg
...Mark
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edwinsmith (02-07-2019)
#5
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The throttle cable isn't going to affect just overdrive. Overdrive is electronically controlled hydraulics. You have a throttle position sensor going out if everything else is working fine, like a/c, cruise, speedo, and the other 3 gears of the transmission.
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NJTman (02-08-2019)
#6
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AJ is the man !
The TV cable is there for the purpose of controlling the 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears, and the timing in which they're individually held in gear. You can control the duration of shifting between 1st 2nd and 3rd, by adjusting the TV cable, but the OD, as AJ (the man) said, the OD is controlled by the TPS.
The TPS is expensive, and most of us slushy owners have switched to the Potentiometer. Costs about $6.00, and IMO, very reliable.
I think you can test the TPS with an OHM meter, to see if it's not reading properly.
IF the TPS turns out to be okay, and you've gone though everything else (ecm, wiring, etc), it's unfortunate, but you're looking at repairing the OD unit itself, internally. This is exactly what I just had to have done.
The TV cable is there for the purpose of controlling the 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears, and the timing in which they're individually held in gear. You can control the duration of shifting between 1st 2nd and 3rd, by adjusting the TV cable, but the OD, as AJ (the man) said, the OD is controlled by the TPS.
The TPS is expensive, and most of us slushy owners have switched to the Potentiometer. Costs about $6.00, and IMO, very reliable.
I think you can test the TPS with an OHM meter, to see if it's not reading properly.
IF the TPS turns out to be okay, and you've gone though everything else (ecm, wiring, etc), it's unfortunate, but you're looking at repairing the OD unit itself, internally. This is exactly what I just had to have done.
#7
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Ok Ok stop piling on, I said that I didn't know anything about automatics, mostly because I'm not stupid . This thread sat for a while without response, so I sacrificed myself knowing that there would be incentive to attack my posts and it worked perfectly BWAAAAAAAA...Mark
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#8
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Ok Ok stop piling on, I said that I didn't know anything about automatics, mostly because I'm not stupid . This thread sat for a while without response, so I sacrificed myself knowing that there would be incentive to attack my post and it worked perfectly BWAAAAAAAA...Mark
Oh boy.
Mark is off his meds again !
Did you get your wiper arms ? You should be a happy camper now.
Ooops... Thread Derailment...
#10
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Hey T, was it the "I'm not stupid" comment? If so, I'm sorry ...Mark
#11
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Pull the two wire connector at the trans side, and test the leads. The blue (Thicker) wire is HOT, and the orange with light green stripe wire is GROUND (in mine). Hot should be on with the key on, as the OD solenoid is powered anytime the truck is turned on (key on). The ECM through the TPS, grounds the orange wire once it senses the speedo sensor has hit 35MPH. or so. You can substitute a separate grounded switch in the cab to temporarily ground out the plug while driving to see if it's functioning properly. I did this, and it made zero change, which then led me to a rebuild.
Read here:https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-quit-330573/
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maybe368 (02-08-2019)
#13
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Like they said, test the TPS.
I ditched mine, bypassed the pentiometer route and just installed a diode that JMartin made up for me. Been working perfect ever since...
I ditched mine, bypassed the pentiometer route and just installed a diode that JMartin made up for me. Been working perfect ever since...
#14
Registered User
Sometimes you can test them and see the problem, other times you can't. The bad spot may be so small that the meter may not show it when you are sweeping through it. But since the condition is obviously related to throttle movement it's a pretty safe bet to say the TPS is at fault.
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