Just wondering how your truck is running?
Did the CNC headwork make a big difference in performance?
Saw the video from CTECH, has me interested, was it worth it?

 

motor seems to run like a beauty but I've only been able to drive it to town once because the transmission is leaking a lot. The parts just came in to fix it so hopefully I'll have it operational very soon so I can actually drive it on a regular basis again. I miss the ole girl.

I can't say if the ctech head was worth it or not yet. Haven't driven it enough for the reasons I mentioned.

The first impression of it when I did get to drive it was that it spools a bit easier and quicker. I can't tell if cruising temps are down or not because it was really cold outside the day I did drive it. I'm not sure if it runs cleaner yet either because it was dark.

I'll be sure to update the thread when I can actually put a few miles on it.

I also want to get my new injectors I ordered in too but they haven't come in the mail yet. they should be 80lpm marine bosch injectors. One of my injectors currently leaks a little compression but because I can't drive it anyways I don't wanna go through the hassle of fixing it if I'm just going to be swapping the injectors soon anyway. I'm hoping I see them in a week or 2. It's been over 4 weeks since I ordered them

 

Hey so what did all your head work cost from ctech? Did you just send them your bare head with nothing assembled on it? I went to do some research on there website but its down for some reason.

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Yeah the bare head was sent to them

Port/Polish & valves cut & orings is a package for $1250

I then bought Hamilton #165 springs for $550

I had the head cut for the updated tophat style valve stem seals for $72

And I bought larger valves for $360.

If I get another head done I'll just send them a loaded head that has #60 springs already. I'll just use stock valves to save cash and I'll only do the p&p/orings/valves. For $1250. For most applications you don't need the extra stuff I got.

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That's pretty reasonable for all that work. I'm really wanting to build a mild p pump motor for my crew and just kinda scoping out what I will need to spend.

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Yeah price wise I thought it was great. If I did the same stuff over again the only thing I'd change is I wouldn't have done the bigger valves. I don't think they really make much difference until you take the intake log off and do a full port job on the intake runners.

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How long did it take them from the time you sent it off till when you got it back?

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sorry I didn't see this post. I think it was a month and a half or so? I can't remember exactly to be honest. It might have even been longer.

Another little update.

Finally got the new converter in. Revmax billet unit with a 5r110 turbine. Seems good so far. Literally only have like 200 miles on the new motor but it runs good except for the surging issues I had before are still present, which is really disappointing.

The new injectors from Hungry diesel are good. Light haze when it's cold but otherwise runs pretty clean. The motor runs cleaner than it did before but I don't know if that is the new head, or the injectors or what. I changed too much to know one way or the other. I don't know what max boost is yet as I haven't actually cracked it open yet. plus my surging makes the boost needle bounce like a fat chick, so I can't really nail down a solid number either

It seems to run maybe a touch warmer under light throttle, but runs cooler than before above 5-6psi and is noticeably cleaner in that ball park as well. Again, who knows if it's the head or the injectors, or maybe a bit of both.

with the valet shut I only max out at maybe 20psi but that little bit of fuel has no trouble spooling the turbo, which is nice. It didn't before either it may be a little better yet. Tough to say for sure as I haven't driven it much.

It's been a long time since I drove the truck but from what I remember in that low-mid boost range (5-20psi) it seems to run a bit stronger too

One last thing I noticed, is the truck takes WAY longer to cool down at idle after driving it. That's probably compliments of the porting.

 

One thing after another....

Motor is out and coming back apart...

very shortly after my last post this happened.

Update with the issue of the motor

As you recall this is the sound it was making the last time it was started


Cam journals have worn pretty badly... hopefully not so much that the block can't be machined for bushings


I'll be talking to the machine shop tomorrow and probably calling Hamilton about that cam exchange Zach offered, as well as figuring cost for zinc additive, cam bushings etc.

 

That Sucks.

 

Why would your engine eat cam journals? It's a round journal with relatively light loading running in a film of oil under pressure.....

OR NOT

 

Nose pressure from the valve springs was too much apparently. Oil pressure was quite good too in fact. 35+psi hot. Despite that, the pressures from the springs was enough to overcome the oil and cause contact between the surfaces.

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Wow, those things are huge compared to a car gas engine and I run 225 on the seat and 710 open spring pressures in my little small block mopar.

 

Well many people run the same springs as me without issue. For whatever reason it wiped out my journals.

These have about 165# seat pressure and around 350# seat pressure @ 0.50 compression on the spring which after the rockers do their work is about the max that they get compressed with the cam that I ran. That 350 lbs of pressure after being put through the fulcrum that is the rocker turns into like 590 lbs of pressure on the tappet at max lift.

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Man, I gotta say no way, even at 590 you aren't even close.

Look very closely at how it oils, I bet something is plugged up.

Cast iron is one of the better bearing materials to use in the speed range these things turn.

I can't say I have even seen a cam wipe journals like that.