1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

The motor Build thread.

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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 11:55 PM
  #106  
Rick 12v CTD's Avatar
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From: Thunder Bay
yup I do know it does indeed go straight to the pump. The port from the cooler to the pump is a really short distance too. It's only a couple (maybe 4" tops) from one to the other.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #107  
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From: Thunder Bay
Well I got it a little more apart last night. got access to all the rod caps and got the pistons loose and got it spinning. It was stuck because of the #5 main bearing (I was wrong before, #6 is the thrust bearing) and 2 or 3 of the rod bearings were pretty stuck and one spun about an inch and a half

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crank is coming out today and I'll have it mic'ed and polished if it's still usable. The rod that spun appears ok, but I am a little worried about it, there are heat marks on the cap. Mostly worried about the rod bearing bore being distorted from the heat

front cover and cam have to be pulled before I can get the crank out.

I was hoping for a little better result but I suppose it could be much worse.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 05:11 PM
  #108  
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From: Streator Illinois
Yep, consider yourself fortunate.

With the pressure these thing run under, things can go bad very quickly.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 05:28 PM
  #109  
Rick 12v CTD's Avatar
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From: Thunder Bay
yeah you're definitely right.

Even if the crank is too damaged for std bearings I have another crank I can use so it's not really that big of a deal, just annoying.

As an aside, I ordered an electric pump for pre-lubing/priming the system and a fumoto drain plug with a hose nipple on it, which is where I'll get oil from when I use the electric pump to pump oil pre start up. Next week I'll go to the local hydraulic and fuel supply store and get the rest of the fittings and hose I need for that plus a check valve
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #110  
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From: Isanti, MN
Don't remember if you figured the cam was toast or not. Had a V6 4.3 Chevy run out of oil once. Crank and cam were both toast, even though it was a roller cam.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #111  
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From: Nanoose Bay B.C. Canada
I have been bit once before on rebuilding by taking the word of the machine shop that's why i double check all my clearance's on Assembly? just a thought
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 11:56 PM
  #112  
Rick 12v CTD's Avatar
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From: Thunder Bay
Cam looks good actually. There was still plenty of assembly lube on everything for that. so that's nice at least.

I got the crank out and had a good look over everything.

DB, it wasn't a clearance issue. It was an oiling issue. Or lack thereof.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:00 AM
  #113  
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by Rick 12v CTD
Cam looks good actually. There was still plenty of assembly lube on everything for that. so that's nice at least.

I got the crank out and had a good look over everything.

DB, it wasn't a clearance issue. It was an oiling issue. Or lack thereof.
I'd look at the cam bushings with a jaundiced eye.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #114  
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From: Richmond, VA
FWIW: the few times we re-built engines, we spun the engine (with the starter) with the injectors removed until we built oil pressure. With no compression or ignition load, you can spin the engine a long time with just the assembly lube . . .

And sorry to hear that life has been kicking you a little.
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Old Feb 7, 2019 | 12:43 PM
  #115  
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Why did this thread die? All this reading and suspense for nothing lol
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