NJTman

Hey Folks.

Another day. Another trial and tribulation for us Dodge owners who love our trucks more than we really should.

So, the other day, I go out to the truck and the Brick sprung a leak at the fuel tank. Discovered that the fuel leak was only while running, and since the truck was running, common sense said that "it's not sucking air and dying out", so it must be the return line to the tank.

Oliver Foster was my first shout out, and he confirmed my original suspicion that the return tubes crack, as he's seen plenty of them over the years. Most break because you tend to want to drop the tank without first removing the fuel lines from the connector at the fuel reservoir, simply because they're almost impossible to get to , and get your hands in there.

BIG SHOUT OUT TO Oliver Foster

This "adaptation" of the bed access panel will eliminate that issue, as I can disconnect and access the fuel reservoir from above.

Well, after crawling around, I see that the leak is coming from the fuel tank reservoir module that sits in the tank dead center. Since there was 27 or more gallons of fresh fuel in there, I didn't feel like dealing with dropping the tank, I decided that for me, the best thing to do was to create an access panel, so that if or when I need to access the fuel sender, I can easily do so. First things first, is to act safely, and get the truck away from your home, garage, or children playing in the sandbox, so that you can "create an access" to the fuel sending unit.

I measured the distance from the edge of the retaining ring, out to the outer edge of the frame. I drilled a small pilot hole up through the bed, and located that up inside the bed. Measured, drew lines, and decided I found the top of the fuel tank.

Next was to get fire extinguishers ready, and have some fun cutting the floor section out, hopefully not winding up like Fire Marshal Bill.








Next thing I did was take a small welding blanket and place it over the top of the tank, to minimize sparks from hitting any diesel fuel on the surface of the tank, or caught in the crevices of the reservoir cap. You can use soaking wet towels as well, but make sure they're fire resistant or have a continual water dribbling on them should their be any ignition issues. The fellas on the site here, have instructed me to "be overcautious", but it's very unlikely to catch diesel fuel on fire unless you're really good at burning stuff up. Be safe, either way.

NJTman

Once you have all your markings, and your safety gear is set in place, start cutting the bed away, and pay attention to not allow your cutting disc to go much deeper than the thickness of the bed itself, as you can potentially cut the fuel lines, even though they're about 2-3 lower than the underside of the bed.



Marked bed and ready to roll

Cut the section of bed out

Fire blanket in place

Accessed the Fuel tank from above

NJTman

now that you can get to the fuel tank, I started the truck because I wanted to see just where the crack is on the tank reservoir. It turned out to be where Oliver said it would be, which is on the return tube of the reservoir. Oliver

Turned the truck back off, and disconnected the lines.

There are two tabs that you press inwards, while pulling the plastic fuel line backwards. They were very tight, which is good, as it shows that the seals were still okay in each tube. Once disconnected, I saw exactly where the crack was, and now all I had to do was figure out "what am I gonna do about it.".

Called the local Diesel shop, and took the parts over there to see what they could do. I also removed both o rings with a small pick out of each supply and return line, as I wanted new seals in them, once I put it all back together again.



Fuel was dribbling out of this area of the return line

Pulled the reservoir assembly out, and pulled the yellow o rings out of each fuel line

The crack revealed

edwinsmith

If I see a big fuel fireball in the east, I'll know what happened.

Seriously. Get back on here soon so we know you're safe.

Edwin

OOPS! Must be timing. I didn't see your other posts.
Glad you got it done without mishap.

Edwin

NJTman

So the diesel shop said what I thought they were gonna say, which is we don't have much to help you with this issue. The bung'd connector isn't a shelf item, and we all know that Chrysler NLA'd this part about a dozen years back. So whatta do ???

The fellas there said the only thing they would recommend is to replace the o rings (Already in mind), and fix the crack with "Rapid Fix" bonding / repair product they sell there. It's about $14.00, and they swear left, right, up and down, that this stuff WORKS !

I'm skeptical, but with an impending snow storm, not much choice, unless I wanted to fly in an airplane to Oliver's place pick up a replacement, then fly home. Not happening.

So, reluctantly, I buy the stuff, and head back home. I follow the directions, grind out the crack just a little bit below the surface of the plastic all along it's run, clean it up with a burring tool, and apply the adhesive. While the adhesive is WET, you sprinkle the other part (fiberglass flakes) which then bond into the wet adhesive. I used a heat gun to warm up the mess, and then once dried, applied round two, again warming up with a heat gun.

Once the stuff was dry (full curing is 24 hours), I ground the surface flat where the fuel line was to be moved onto the tube, so that the fuel line would actually fit. If i didn't grind it flush, there would be no way to get the fuel line back in place. Since the crack was primarily on the opposite side of the ridge of the tube, I did NOT grind that flat, as the only reason to would be to reinstall the push clips back onto the tube. I decided it was better to have a "thicker repair" than to have the clip in place. I secured the tube with zip ties to prevent it from working loose. The return line is only about 1 to 2 PSI of pressure, but no sense taking risks.

New O-rings in the fuel lines, lubricated both with 3-in 1 oil (any oil will do), and slid them back on. Tied the tubes together for greater support, locked the tube onto the bung with zip ties, and started the truck.

No leaks.

Granted this is temporary ( to me ), as I want to get a replacement fuel reservoir from either Ollie, or buy a 1996 to 1997 Dodge 2500 reservoir, (Carter P74699R) and figure out how to swap out the fuel gauge connector as it's different than our 1st gens electric connection. In other words.... To be continued.

In the meanwhile I'm working on adding flanges to the cut out section of the truck bed flooring, to return it back to where it sat previously. Since it will be screwed in place, I can access the fuel tank anytime I need to with just a screwdriver.

Again, to be continued.



Rapid Fix

Rapid Fix The crack in the tube

All back together, and not leaking.

Angry Johnny

Some one already cut an access panel in the bed of my truck and siliconed it back in place. Or you could remove the bed like my son did on his truck.

edwinsmith

Unfortunately, though I have a decent winch, I don't have a tree big enough to hang it from nor do I have six stout sons to lift the bed off. So I would have to cut the same access panel that Tman did. I'm really interested to see how he fixes the "access panel" he just made so it's neat strong and able to access it if it starts leaking again.

Also, how does that unit seal to the tank? Is there a big o-ring or is it specially shaped to do the job?

Good Job!

Edwin

NJTman

Here's how to go about it, in two different fashions.

1. Take that panel I cut out, weld a strip of metal 3/4" all the way around its perimeter to the top of the panel. Drop the panel in the original location with the new flanges in place, use a sealant below, and zip screw low profile screws through it, and be done. I would NOT use silicone, as you'll be screaming at yourself when you tried to pry that panel back off, as the silicone would make it very difficult, at best.

2. take that panel I cut out, weld a strip of metal 3/4" all the way around it's perimeter on the BOTTOM of the panel. Since it's oblong, you will be able to stick the panel through the hole sideways, and install it from below.

I'm taking route #2.

Why ?

It's more difficult, yes, because how in the world am I gonna be able to lift that thing into place, and get the screws into it?

Once I can get the Linex bed liner off of that panel, and I have the flanges welded from below, I'm going to weld to the lower sections of the panel two tabs. Those tabs are what I will be able to "grab" the panel with, so that I can install the screws hold it in place. most of the screws will be in the valleys, and not the hi sections. Why ? Because I want the panel to be as "FLUSH" as possible. A small bead of sealant in the joint, and it's again water proof.

The fuel reservoir assembly is somewhat water resistant.

The large outer ring ( BLUE ARROW IN PHOTO) clamps the unit to a large o ring type gasket that sits on the tank lip. When you tighten that outer ring, it compresses the O ring in between. I'm not really concerned about water entering there. I'm more concerned about water entering in the individual bung locations where the 27 year old gaskets / grommets

are located.(RED ARROWS IN PHOTO) I'm not confident that water sitting on top of that assembly won't allow water into the tank. Those gaskets / grommets are a bit tired.

NJTman

It would be done either way. Most people either drop the tank, or remove the bed. Oliver said the bed is easy to remove, just a few bolts on the outside of the frame, the filler neck connection, some wiring connections at the rear harness, and it lifts off. I don't have the luxury of what Edwin said previously.

oliver foster

I just got back from the shop where I was working on the old plow truck. It just keeps dumping snow up here.
I just read your whole sending unit saga. I was leaning heavily toward you finding a cracked return nipple on that sending unit judging from the info. you gave me over the phone the other day.
That goop seems like a good quick fix. I can dial you in with a good OEM 1st gen sending unit, if that its how you want to proceed.
Glad to see you up and ready to plow snow with the Brick.
Glad to help out as well.

N. Besonderes

Wait! There are o-rings in the fuel line side of the Q/D connections? Dang it! I wish I had known that a few weeks ago when I was dropping my tank for the second time.
So, does this mean I need to dick with wiggling those connections off again so I can put new o-rings in there?

Fordzilla

Alternately you could drill two holes in the valleys of the panel, thread them for short panhead machine screws and start those screws in the threaded holes...These are your "handles...When the panel is secured where you want it, run the short screws all the way down and grind the heads almost flush to the panel...You don't have to seal the screw heads if you're going to Line-X back over the panel anyway......Ben

NJTman

yes yellow diesel rated o rings. Theyre extremely hard to replace. Getting them out wasn't bad. Reinstalling them was a pain. Not so much the 3/8" supply line, but the 5/16 " return took forever. I would not want to work on them with the tank in place, as id be really pushing my personal limitations.

OTOH, if its not leaking, and your truck runs fine, you should be okay.

NJTman

Awesome idea. My only change to what you said, is that I will use the screws in the valley sections of the panel, and screw them all the way down, as you said, but They will remain for future use.

edwinsmith

Tman:

I would put the flanges on the bottom of the panel. Then after you get it through the hole put a BIG horseshoe magnet on it and lift it into place while you start the screws into the pre-threaded holes in the new plate flange. Works great on steel plates. Doesn't work worth a darn on airplanes though.

Edwin