I don't think that's a good idea. I like the muffler adapter idea better. Copper from a plumbing supply house would be good too.

 

My 1985 Ford/Cummins has the HUGE Ford diesel radiator common for that year.

The Ford bottom outlet (or I guess really it's the "inlet" ), as you know, is at the extreme LEFT side.

If you have a non-I/C, the Cummins bottom water-neck sort of points toward the rail on the RIGHT side.

I used the Dodge/Cummins bottom hose on the engine; Dayco #B71530

You state 1-3/4 on your Ford radiator; MY 1985 Ford diesel radiator is 2".

I used Dayco #70739, a 2" (at both ends ) hose with one 90* bend and long legs on both sides; I cut the radiator end to put the hose as close to the radiator as possible, without "kinking" the bend.

I had the exhaust shop bend a length of 2" "galvalume" tubing; two mild angles, as best I can remember ( it's under the truck where I don't see it ).

This tubing section is maybe 18-24" long.

I could have used more of the hose length and less tubing, but that approach made for an overly long hose that had no support and I feared it might sag and kink; I like the longer tube a lot better; the radiator end of the tubing is very close to the radiator inlet/outlet/whatever.

Anyway, I installed both hoses and positioned them to the best advantage; then, I bent a stiff wire to the shape I wanted and took this to the bender as my pattern.

I didn't put any "ferrules" or "ridges" on the ends; I just double-clamped each hose and it has never leaked, not even one drip in over three years.

For stabilization/support, I put two plain old U-bolt exhaust clamps onto the tubing and fabricated a couple of simple brackets that bolt to the bottom of the core-support and attach to the "legs" of the muffler clamps.

To mate non-I/C Dodge/Cummins to Ford diesel radiator at the top, I used Dayco #71040; in un-cut, as bought, condition, this hose is quite busy, with some un-necessary bends at both ends; but, there is that "just right" section sort of in the middle that is just what the doctor ordered.

I am a dedicated GATES hose and belt man; for reasons unknown to me, my local old-timey parts-house quit handling Gates and went to all Dayco; he knows better, so it must have been a money thing.

That being said, the guy was nice enough to let me plunder through his hose collection and carry dozens to the truck/engine for matching up what would work; so..........., to be decent about things, I bought his Dayco hoses.

>>> Check your Ford radiator and see if it isn't 2", instead of 1-3/4. <<<

The radiator end of the Dodge hose should also be 2".

Hope this tells you what you need to know.

 

Thanks for the good info BK,

Yes the 01 Superduty radiator has 1 3/4 and the Cummins in 2 1/4, measuring OD.

 

What are the other specs on that SD radiator, width, height, core/end tank material, and location of inlet/outlets?

Thanks, Aaron

 

Aaron, the '01 F radiator is 30 1/2 wide, 32 tall, and 2 1/4 thick core. I figured the F radiator to be about 20-25% bigger than Dodge rad. so hopefully my one little fan will keep up. If not I got room to add another one.

 

Thanks for the measurements. Yeah the stock rad is 25 3/4" X 21", so I think that the PS rad would fit, if not for the height. Will have to take a look with a tape. Might have to cut the front of the frame to fit.

Must be nice to have all that room in there!

 

Aa, thats why I had to build a 3 1/2" body lift. If all my calculations are correct the hood should close with a 1/2" clearance. Trust me I sure hope they're correct . Done everything else twice....

 

Where are you getting the other ~8" from?

 

apw50, thats one of the advantages of having a 68 Power Wagon

 

This is a sweet build nice to see a good towing build

 

I missed the part where you said what gearing is in the back??

I'm still having a hard time believing with all 'dem gears your transmission final drive is gonna be 1:1

 

He said his aux box is a under-direct-overdrive unit. If his main tranny is direct in high gear he still will have an overdriven final if his brownie box is in overdrive. Crossy, it does not matter how many trannys you have in a row. If they were all 1 to 1 in high gear then thats all your gonna get. I have not been in many brownie trucks but the way I remember it you select your brownie gear and leave it alone. Some gears you may be able to split but as was said before the gears are not all in a row.

 

Thanks Waldo. I plan on towing my '49 Cat bull dozer. It weights 15, trailer 6, power wagon 10 = 31K. Hell no I ain't stooping at the scales LoL

CS, the only OD is the Brownie and it's a big jump too. If I shift the Brownie to OD the 10 speed has to be down shifted 2 gears to keep the same rpm, normaly I would only down shift one gear to keep accelerating.

I really don't need the OD with the tall tires and 3:73 gear. But since my buddy sold it to me cheap I couldn't resist. But I'm trying to make this old W one of a kind and do a good job too. The girl friend says she willl drive it if reliable and I would love for her to drive it :-)

 

How do you guys feel about this filter set up?

What if the filter was on a 45 so it's away from the engine? Would that pass inspection?

Sure has a sweet whistle with the filter right on the turbo.

 

I would duct to a cold air box for the filter, open to inside the fenderwell with some sort of splash guard to keep the water and big chunks out.