No, you don't want the KSB ("bottom solenoid") hot all the time. It uses a temp switch (part "B" in your first post). Run the power through that switch and then I will be happy.

The other guys already explained what it does.

 

With all this confusing KSB crap ..... I still got a couple more questions for you guys.

A. wiring directions for the alternator

B. the fan belt is trying to walk off the tension idler. This OK or needs fixen?

C. how do I get a flange for the turbo discharge? I need three, 2 more for the exhast brake.

Thanks for the help.

 

A. See the sticky, there's an article on using an old style Mopar regulator.

B. New tensioner assembly is mandatory.

C. Ebay is probably the cheapest way.

 

I'm pretty happy with the KSB running off a switch I put in the dash. Flip the switch when you need KSB, no temp sensor to worry about.

 

IOW, there is nothing "retarded" about this!

 

Wanna D. OK I looked through the sticky and found some info on a voltage regulator.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
Looks like I only use the top two studs. A lot of equipment only uses the big stud.... why not use the big stud off the bottom of this Alt? Could it be because no internal regulator?

I just got back from a big 8,800 mile Harley trip (went by myself) and visited/spent the night with people that I've met from the antique tractor and truck forums. It would have been nice to stop and visit with you.

Attached is the East half of the map, went right by your place

 

Haha you drove like right next to my house it looks like.

Did you happen to cross the delaware memorial bridge or the commador barry?

 

The big stud gets wired to the positive battery terminal using a big wire - at least 4 gauge.

 

Cs, yes I did go over the Delaware Mem. bridge. Was a great trip. Would have been nice to meet you too.

Wanna I been looking through the sticky but a lot of stuff is repairing what they already have. I don't have anything, it's all from scratch. Please don't assume I know this stuff. "use at least 4 ga." is good info and what I need to hear, so give it till it hurts

What are the two small studs on the alternator for? Do I use them?
Is a a fuse needed on the 4 ga. wire?

 

The tensioner pulley pivot is probably worn out of line. Eventually it will likely throw that belt.

You're gonna get ostracised if you keep usin' them dang Fram oil filters. It has been said that their filter media disintegrates and clogs oiling nozzles. Use Fleetguard.

 

All you need is the big wire to the battery from the main terminal and the two small wires from the field terminals to the regulator.

A mega fuse is highly recommended on the charging wire. The alternator is a 120 amp unit, so a 150 amp fuse will let it charge at full power while still protecting the battery in case of a dead short.

 

35-06, I better get a new tension pulley then, don't want to throw my new $70 belt. I've been working on this truck for about 5yrs. and oil filter came on the engine when I bought. But when I change the filter I'll be sure and not put a fram back on.

Wanna, this is my second time rewiring this truck. The first time I did an OK job but only used 4 colors of wire. Try chasing a yellow wire when there is 15 other yellow wires . This time I got two old wire harnesses and separated all the colors and stretched them out. Now all the wires are color coded. Next time I'll fallow the yellow wire with an orange strip LoL.

Right now a truck battery is mounted in the bed with 00 cable running to the starter, no fuse. I plan on running from the alt. to the starter with a mega fuse.

I really appreciate all the help and support, it's helping me to get a lot things done.

 

Not just the pulley, get the whole tensioner assembly.

Don't sweat the Fram.

 

Only 17 guages but what are the 5 sticks for?

This ???? might even stump Wanna D

 

I'm not old enough to know how to drive that one.