Hmmmm..........., let's see, Dodge, Ford, GM, and Cummins parts; go ahead and use some I-H and StudeBaker stuff to round it out.

Is it going to stay yellow ??

 

BK, thats why I call it the Mc Mobile Yes on of the beginning pics shows the cab on a trailer with fresh yellow paint. It matches my old Cats.

The wiring was a birds nest so I gutted it all out and starting fresh with color coded wires from the wrecked truck.

The W has a hot cable running the battery to the starter and this cable coming up is hot with the starter solenoid. C 1rst pic. I don't understand this 3 terminal solenoid. Please explaine and do I need fuses for this?

No directions with this solenoid (c 2nd pic) and don't know how to wire it. Please explaine. Should any additional fuses be used?

More story and pics but I need some answers LoL

Now that the W's steering is doing much better I still needed more gear so I put in a Road Ranger 610 tranny. 610 = 600lbs. torque rating and 10 forward gears. Ya one would think that since the tranny has more gears it would go faster... NOT... when both tranny's high gears are direct . Now I got about $500 in the tranny along and an air compressor to switch ranges.

Hmmmm mind starts spinning. Lets just take the 01 F-350 dually rear end out of the wrecked truck with 3:73 gears. So out with the W's Dana 80 and 4:88 gears. Now my minds really spinning with possibilities so I get the gas axe out

This was a wise decision my friend, I angle cut the W's frame right before the leaf hangers. Now with endless wheel base options I lengthen the wheel base 2' to allow for the Brownie box and Wicked Winch. Now I got the F-350's fuel tank, sway bar, shocks, disk brakes, emergency brake, everything = happy, happy, happy.

So far so good????

 

Are you sticking with the GM front? What are you going to do about the wheel bolt pattern difference? I cannot tell what the wire your holding in your hand goes too right off. Looks like a great project. Are there plans for the winch? Gin poles maybe?

 

Yea incase you don't know the ford rear is gonna have a metric lug pattern and the GM front will have standard....but they make adapters i think..spacer thingies

nice project! coming along great!

 

Right you are on the bolt-pattern differences.

But, I wouldn't let a mixed set of wheel patterns keep me from progress.

Every day, I see brand new shiny expensive cars that came from the factory with, believe it or not, non-interchangeable differing wheels on front and rear, and usually lefts and rights also, most even with different tire sizes specified on front from those on the back.

These are really fun when Mr. American Consumer comes in and asks for a tire rotation and, after one of the shop-monkeys has already gotten all four wheels taken off, we discover that all we can do is put them back where they were.

 

The starter relay is Chrysler's way of connecting the neutral safety switch and taking the load of the solenoid off the ignition switch. Yours is missing a connection in the upper left corner.

How you wire the universal relay depends on what you are using it for. The terminals have numbers next to them. 85 and 86 are the control side, power goes to 85 and ground goes to 86. 30 and 87/87a are the switch side. 30 gets the constant hot. 87 is the normally open contact, 87a is the normally closed contact. Usually 87a doesn't get used.

 

Thanks wanna, I found out today the old solenoid does not work. Can one of those smaller Bueler work for the starter solenoid? Or how many amps needed?

Mixing Metric + Standard lug patterns (kinda thought one of you guys would have caught it in the first section of pics) LoL

Ok let me give you another clue;
In the pic below your looking at both standard and metric bolt patters.... Ya U C?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&d=1247267968
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2&d=1247286648

 

WOW this thing is sweet. How come a ford rear end, and where did you get the road ranger and brownie? Sorry just curious?

 

That looks like standard ten-bolt BUDD wheel to me.

 

They make adapters from 170mm (new sd ford) x 8 lug to 10 lug as well as 6.5" x 8 lug to 10 lug. He used the appropriate adapter for each axle to get the 10 lug wheels on there.


Rear Ford Metric lug spacing axle has these (or equivalent)

http://www.aquasunmotorsports.com/sh...merican_Force_

front GM axle has these:

http://www.aquasunmotorsports.com/sh...1-08_Chevy_GMC

 

Good Eye PC.

Took me a long time to figure out what wheels to run until I saw another pickup with 22.5 Alcoa's. Then the light came on....

The pic below shows the GM 6.5 x 8 and the Metric Alcoa truck wheels. All 4 Alcoa's are metric. Now I can rotate tires and wheels just not adapters since SD in front and Metric in rear.

In the pic with the broken studs shows why I got a tow truck ride home. One road side repair the trusty tool box couldn't help out.

Thank goodness the tire has a good load rating LoL

 

ouch!

What size studs did you have on the front, 1/2" ? I have been running the 19.5s with the stock 1/2" studs but have the 9/16" upgrades sitting in the garage waiting to go on... Scary that the studs broke but not the adapter's fault! Those 22.5 rims and tires are heavy!!

 

That's some pretty interesting front end work. What's the deal with that long sway bar-looking thing with the welds in it? It also looks like you've installed some sort of trackbar. Do those springs use shackles on both ends?

 

By track bar are you referring to the crossover steering link. Looks like he had to extend the sway bar because the mounts would've interfered with said link and that explains the welds on teh sway bar.

 

Yeah, you can use one of the little universal relays for that. It looks like they were using yours for a heavy power junction block though. Gonna need to do something about that, or use a Ford starter relay just so you have a heavy lug to use as a junction point for that big feed wire.