Yea with the way that is now, your sucking hot air from the exhaust manifold and from the alternator :nono: not good at all.

Put a 45 on it and some pipe, clamp the filter on the end, maybe bring it out so the back of the filter is like at the alternator??

 

That's not you engine bay is it?? i don't remember you painting the firewall green and it has one of them funky inline inj. pumps on it.

 

I ran my Ford/Cummins just like that for probably a year before I spent a bunch of money and plumbed in a filter-box.

I expected towing EGT to dramatically decrease, but I can't see it on the PYRO.

It sure sounded a lot better when the filter was clamped straight on the turbo.

On his Ford/Cummins, my cousin had a plumbing boot slip from under the clamp and suck through the turbo, costing him an engine, along with a small engine fire that scorched the hood pretty bad; he has ever since been running the filter just like you have pictured.

 

BK, he must not of had a after cooler to trap the turbo debris after it granaded?

I already have a big tractor fresh air box mounted. But I like all the turbo whistle

No it's a pic of my buddies truck.

 

Can I shorten the pyrometer wires if I cut them at the same length?

 

Nooooo, don't do that. They are calibrated to be that length.

 

Cool truck. What part of town are you in.

 

Thanks DW, I'm way out in Rosedale.

 

This Jacobs/Cummins exhaust brake has two different size flanges, one is thick and flared out and the other thin and flared in . The V-clamp only fits the thinner flange. It looks like this is meant to fit directly on the turbo. I don't have enough room between the turbo and firewall to mount it. So I was going to mount it down stream were there is pletty of room.

Also, someone told me I need stiffer exhaust valve springs or they need washers stacked to make them stiffer?

Right now I'm tired of messing with it and thinking about just leaving the E. brake off.

Any suggestions on the clamp and valve springs?

 

You need 60 psi exhaust valve springs or you will float the valves at high RPM.

If you're going to put it inline then get some flanges to weld in along with some clamps. Try these guys: http://www.airflo.com/

 

WD. will floating valves hit the pistons?

If I pull a valve cover can I tell what pound the springs are?

 

What is the inside-diameter of that brake ??

Thanks.

 

Yes, they will hit the pistons. That's how you change springs on these motors, bring the cylinder to TDC and let the valve sit on the piston while you change the spring.

If the exhaust springs are obviously thicker than the intake springs then they have been upgraded.

 

Kick EDIT. I'm way out off Olive Dr.

 

BK, the exhaust brake has a 2-9/16 I.D.