Maybe not. I think there's room somewhere for one more, maybe. Anyway, It took awhile, but I finally finished up the last one today. oil pressure, down by the ashtray. I used Wanna's method for the air bleed after tapping the correct banjo - thanks Wanna! Check it out - we don't need no stinkin' pods!

http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_36.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_37.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_38.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_39.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_40.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_41.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_42.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_43.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_44.jpg

The best part about this install is they are all nicely clustered right around the column, except for the trans temp down on the floor, which is pretty much useless now that I installed the coolers anyway. The only part of the factory gauges that is even slightly blocked is the high beam indicator and the right turn indicator. I did catch myself driving around with the high beams on the other night.

 

It all looks good. I would love to throw all my factory gauges in the trash.
The fuel gauges is blocked, but I guess you can do the math or check it every now and then.
I have at least 1 concern. The rubber hoses that are close to the manifold... That is a major NONO. You need to fix that. The rubber will give way in less than a year and blow oil everywhere, and may cause a huge fire.
Im not trying to be negative but I have learned the hard way more than once Gauges are good, just make sure they are installed for long term.
Keep up the good work, crank it up and keep it cool

 

In the fifth picture up from the bottom, what is the brass wing-valve, and what is the white plastic line with the rubber clamped over it??

Also, on the oil-filter housing, I see a TEE fitting, with two lines.

I assume one line is oil-pressure; what is the second line??

Very clean looking set-up.

Thanks for all the pictures.

 

Yes I thought about that oil fitting being too close to the manifold, and no the fuel gauge is not blocked at all. You just can't see it because it is in the steering wheel's shadow. Ever hear the old saying there's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over?

http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_43.jpg

I was looking at it wondering "what the heck was I thinking??" Maybe that is why I am not a plumber by trade. Now both oil feeds are at least 6 inches further away from the manifold and traveling straight away from it. I also put a longer barb on the line connecting the bypass filter so ther are two clamps holding it. No worries.

The white plastic line is some larger diameter nylon sheath I used the encase the smaller diameter nylon boost and oil pressure lines. Those lines are too delicate to leave laying around a Cummins engine compartment without some good protection.

The brass wing valve replaces the air bleed screw on the banjo bolt that feeds the fuel pressure gauge. That had to come out in order to install the tapped banjo bolt for the fuel gauge feed. That valve or the previously installed bleed screw would be used to purge the air out after replacing the fuel filter. One line off the oil pressure source is for the gauge and the other goes to the oil bypass filter. Here is a link to that thread if you are interested:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=106091

 

Looks good.

 

here's what i just finished.


it's all installed now, rewiring the "circut board" on the back of the cluster was the worst part, but not that bad.

 

Wow, that's some pretty serious hacking on the dash!! I'd like to see some more pics of it installed. I was looking at getting into the dash in some way at first. But it seemed rather difficult to get apart, so I gave up on that idea pretty quickly.