OK so I brought this subject up before with no response
I have 2 1992 Dodge 1 tons. My first one started blowing the rubber tip off my shutdown solenoid after the pump was cranked up. I can buy a new solenoid and it will last about 2 days max. Then when I turn the key off the engine wont shut down. that is because a big chunk of the shutdown solenoid tip will dissappear.
Now I have my second 92 that I drive every day. Yesterday I installed My new 3200 Governor spring and ground off the "foot" on the lever. Now my engine wont shut off with the key.
I will bet money that the rubber tip is blown off.
So, is there a solenoid that does not have a rubber tip or do I have to put a pull cable on both of my trucks to get it to shut off?
I love the power but I would like to use the key to shut it off, not the clutch or a pull cable
HELP!!

 

OK, so Im not complaining, I went from 22 PSI boost to 31 PSI. Lots of smoke too, It runs so much better. I guess I will have to put pull cable shutoffs on both trucks.

 

Frostie does the VW version have same tip ? just an idea.

 

Bushy says you can stretch the spring to keep that from happening.

 

I am wondering how streching the spring is going to help keep the rubber tip from blowing a chunck off of it?
If I but a new solenoid tommorow and install it, within 1 day it will blow a chunck off the hard rubber tip.
Is there a tip made if another material that wont come apart?

 

Hey Frostie, Mine did the same thing as yours. we can start a club now. I put my new solenoid in and it only lasted 1 day. sucked the rubber right off the tip. put in a pull cable and am as happy as ever with it. It's pretty cool that this thing is moving enough fuel to pull the rubber tip off the solenoid,By the way. if anyone wants a brand new solenoid minus the plonger it's yours if ya want it. my cable dont need one.

 

It's my understanding that PDR has an upgraded (read tougher) solenoid. Give them a call and ask about this thing.

pb...

 

Do I hafta, I like my pull cable.

 

Just in case this were to ever happen to me, how do you hook up the cable or what not to actually get the engine to shut down?

 

The manual shut down lever on the side of the pump, just need a cable to manually pull that lever

 

Yes, there is a lever on the side of the pump. if you look in from the drivers side fender, it will be on that side, pull it toward the firewall and the engine will shut down.
I called Piers yesterday morning. Hey Bob, why dont you answer the phone?
The guy had no idea about the new solenoid. He did call back late in the after noon and said they have the updated solenoids. I ordered 2 of them, 1 for each truck. we will find out how they work soon. They were cheaper from Piers than a stock one is locally.

 

Just for the info. I paid 87.00 dollars for my second one that lasted 1 day. OUCH.

 

Piers Quoted me $45 so I bought 2,

 

I have gone through about 5 rubber tips myself. The manual kill cable got old, so I talked to Dave Miller (hdm48) about what he did to his plunger. He removed most of the rubber on the tip (almost to the metal) so that the plunger pulled up out of the way of the fuel, but would seal enough to kill the engine. My 14mm pump moves enough fuel that now it wont completely die when the plunger attempts to seal. So, to get the best of both worlds use a P-pump solenoid on the manual lever with a custom bracket and linkage wired to a momentary switch in the cab.

Mike

p.s.

Removing the plunger will not allow for more fuel flow and increased power. I made a few runs on the dyno and it didn't make a difference.

 

I thought about the second gen solenoid thing, but they are a bit pricey.
the other problem is first gen solenoids have a single wire, most P-pump styles have a pull in winding and a hold in winding. I would probably have to wire the pull in wire off the starter solenoid signal wire.