No turn signals, wipers, blower fan or radio. all of the fuses under the dash are good. ideas!?

 

Did you check the fuseable links?

 

Yep, fusible link feeding the dash fuse panel.

 

ditto on the fuse links, been there done that. Mine had a pin hole and got curooooded.

 

I had the same problem. Turned out being a wire broke at the ignition switch.

 

Yep, I would go straight there after giving all the fusible links a tug to verify them. The blower puts a lot of strain on that circuit of the ignition switch and it's common for that terminal on the ign. switch connector to overheat and loosen its grip.

 

Find that wire and connect it instead to a constant-duty solenoid that is triggered ON via the new wire from that terminal of the ignition-switch.

This will take all that load away from the key-switch.

 

Should be the orange fusible link IIRC.

YOu'll have to check each end of the link cause they dont burn off the insulation like a Chevy does.

 

Thanks guys. After seeing that all of my fuses were good, I posted the question and went directly back out to look at my fusible links. I tried to see if one was bad, and turned on the ignition and everything worked again..... This has happened to me a few times before. I think it's time for a fuse, or the solenoid idea but I'm not sure how it works?

 

That's what mine was doing, one minute it would work and the next it would stop. Took me days to find it. That is the one wire with all of the same things in common. Remove the steering cover and you should discover the broken wire making intermittent contact.

 

The solenoid set-up works just exactly like the popular "head-light relay mod".

In this case, instead of a little ice-cube relay, you use a robust constant-duty solenoid; relay --- solenoid --- for all practical purposes, they both wire up the same and perform the same function.

You relocate the problem wire from the key-switch to the LOAD terminal of the solenoid (either one of the two bigger studs); big HOT wire from battery-HOT source connects to the other big stud; a new wire replaces the relocated wire at the key-switch and connects to the IGN terminal of the solenoid (the little stud); the solenoid may GROUND through it's mount, or may have a separate GROUND terminal (the other little stud) = address accordingly.


When you turn ON the key-switch, it sends current to the IGN terminal of the solenoid; this turns ON the solenoid which causes it to complete the circuit between the battery-HOT and LOAD studs, thus sending current to all the functions that that portion of the key-switch was originally carrying.


Make sense now ???