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Issue with throttle sticking

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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 02:31 AM
  #1  
getpower's Avatar
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Issue with throttle sticking

How's it going guys? I posted this on another forum too, but I kind I need an answer, so here it is copied and pasted.

#1
Today 04:00 AM by getpower
I'll try and make this as clear as possible. I'm new to these VE pumps and I am not sure what some of the components are called.

Yesterday, I drove down south. Where I live the outside temperature averages maybe mid 60s-and that's what it was yesterday. I got to where I was going about 100 miles away and it was in the mid 80's down there.

Went into a four wheeling park and started putting around a little bit, and my throttle started sticking about maybe 200 rpm or so from idle. The pedal wasn't coming all the way back up and it also felt tougher than normal, I think.

I pulled off to the side, opened the hood, went to the linkage connected to the pump, and pulled the throttle all the way shut, shut down the motor, and let the truck cool for a few minutes.

After a bit, I got back inside, fired the motor up, all was good and normal till about 10 minutes in and it started happening again, so again, I pulled off to the side and pulled the throttle all the way shut at the pump, and left the hood open and let everything cool again. I took off, and it happened again and it was time to go, so I left the park.

It might just be me and the heat maybe had nothing to do with it. But after I got on the street to come home it was perfectly fine. It was almost like the spring on the pump didn't have enough pressure to return it all the way.

I know these trucks have hard accelerator pedal feel, but I figure maybe I should ask here because I haven't really driven another first gen, but the pedal on my truck feels like it is exceptionally hard to push down. Nothing to compare it to, but I wouldn't think dodge would've sent these things out like this from the factory. Any trip over 30 or 40 miles and your really wishin you had cruise control.

Truck is an '89 w250 all stock, auto, just turned 110,000 miles yesterday.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #2  
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Check the cable .Maybe it is dirty or frayed.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 09:17 AM
  #3  
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Also check your kickdown cable for the trans, that could be binding.

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 11:22 AM
  #4  
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From: Isanti, MN
Agreed, the throttle linkage should be free. The cable can wear and fray, making it sticky. Easy to check by disconnecting it.

I've seem extra springs put on the pump to overcome a bad cable, making the pedal very hard. That's not the proper way to fix the problem. Just replace the cable.

It's not likely the pump would bind and operate normally.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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Also the plastic end sockets on the throttle linkage can wear and break, giving lots of slop in the linkage.

My MB uses metal end sockets instead of plastic. I do plan on replacing the plastic ones with metal.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 01:58 PM
  #6  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by rrgrassi
Also the plastic end sockets on the throttle linkage can wear and break, giving lots of slop in the linkage.

My MB uses metal end sockets instead of plastic. I do plan on replacing the plastic ones with metal.
Can you still get the Cummins replacement with the metal ends? I read somewhere that they are obsolete.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 03:04 PM
  #7  
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From: Lloydminster SK/AB
Yes you can still get them.

When i bought mine 2 years ago it was called a "control rod".
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 05:09 PM
  #8  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by BILTIT
Yes you can still get them.

When i bought mine 2 years ago it was called a "control rod".
thanks that's good to know.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Also check the main pivot point on the throttle bracket.

This unit....



I had one almost totally seize up. I pressed the throttle to accelerate and the motor would not come back down. Tapped it quickly to "over come" the stickiness, and it just increased in RPM. Scared the cr@p out of me...thought I had a runaway condition. Turned out the center shaft, where it runs through the bracket was rusted badly. There are bushings in there...but if you have too much rust it don't do any good.

I pulled the bracket. Stripped it down, cleaned and lubed everything and re-assembled. Never had a problem after that.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 06:14 AM
  #10  
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From: New York
Fluid file everything on that side or use spray/grease. Also, there is a metal jacket that goes around the cable. Sometimes this sticks against the plastic guide. You might have to pull the metal sleeve towards the pump. If you like the feel of your foot pedal you could just remove the cable and put some heat shrink to expand the guide. I would get that ABS plastic shrink tube so it melts into the cable.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 06:21 AM
  #11  
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From: New York
Originally Posted by mknittle
thanks that's good to know.
They run about $60, I bought two of them a few years ago. Hard to get on the ball/socket but you don't have to worry about the plastic ones.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:49 AM
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by bannerd
They run about $60, I bought two of them a few years ago. Hard to get on the ball/socket but you don't have to worry about the plastic ones.
Use a pair of channel lock pliers...and they pop right on...
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