sdseva

More electrical fun in my dads truck.. 92 w250 LE His power windows occasionally will not work.. both drivers side and passenger side switches will not move the windows. Then later in the the day it might work if it feels like it. Again I ask the forum for help!

Thanks people!

Angry Johnny

Mine will occasionally freeze up in the full up position. I see this on new vehicles too. I pop the switch plate out, give the regulator gear a few taps with a hammer and screwdriver and presto, they work again. One of these days I'm going to take it apart, clean up the motor and regulator.

james1

Five or so years ago I had the same problem on the driver side only -- an intermittent power window. It was a broken wire.

Where the bundle of wires exits the door and enters the truck (the "jamb"), Dodge wrapped the wires together using cloth tape (something similar to old-fashioned "friction tape"). Unwrap this cloth tape and you'll likely see one wire completely broken in two -- when the two ends of the wire happen to touch each other the window works. Use a butt splice to repair the wire and rewrap. I used a bicycle handlebar tape made of fabric to mimic the original...

Good luck.

Dan70

i've got something similar going on. my drivers switch wont control either window, but the passenger one controls the passenger window fine. I took the switch out and plugged it back in and everything worked fine for awhile and now they dont. thank goodness the ac still works...

as for your problem, I would make sure you have power and enough power at the drivers switch, obviously check for corrosion, and same for the ground.. intermittent problems are the worst to find especially if it's working at the time. ha

goodluck!!

BearKiller

Lots of good answers already given.

Another likely place to look is where the breaker --- or is it a fuse --- plugs into the fuse-block; most I have found to be all melted and burnt.

The windows draw a lot more current than the puny connections at the over-taxed fuse-block and key-switch can handle.

My improvement is to cut the power-window circuit free of the fuse-block, splice on longer/heavier wire, and route this to always-HOT.

Doing thus, you gain three advantages; no more melting fuse-block, longer life for the key-switch, and you can operate the windows even when the keys are in a space-ship orbiting Mercury.

sooty

ive got a couple doors from one of my salvage trucks, only parts that were good were the glass and window motors, their yours for free if you want to come pick them up, theres more if you want interior stuff, I need them out of my way, im north a couple hours from sd.

Dan70

would you sell the window switch for the drivers side and the passenger door lock switch????

sooty

ill give you the whole door assemblies

peckens

Check the wires in the door jam. They get brittle and crack.

sdseva

I think this is likely the issue.. I checked the wires from the door but they all look fine. I think the fuse my be more likely because both of the switches stop working at the same time.. then they both work.. then they both stop.. always together.. Thanks for the advice and the upgrade idea!

sdseva

is there any other breaker or fuse for the windows than whats in the fuse block? The 30a fuse thats in there now is good.. I checked the harness at the doors and it looks fine.. ill hold the switch down and move the wires around a bit and still get nothing. what could cause all three switches to fail together and then come back to operational together?

BearKiller

Try a test wire from battery-HOT to the cold side (power-window side) of the fuse-block and see what happens.

Connect the test wire to the actual power-window wire on the back side of the fuse-block.

maybe368

It would take some coincidence, but both motors may be on their way out. I say this because my drivers side was intermittent for a year or more, until it finally quit. I always suspected wiring or something, but a new Rockauto motor fixed it...Mark