1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

I could use advice.. newbie

Old Jul 10, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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From: York County Nebraska
I could use advice.. newbie

Hello all..I want to say thank you for all the things I have learned while lurking here and while searching, so... thank you.

I also apparently have been influenced heavily because I hatched a plan to get me a free 6BT engine in my 1985 Crew Cab, thus leaving $$ for some modifications <---- possible poor influence after being exposed to this forum ;-)

So I bought a 1992 D350 dually flatbed with a 5spd and a nice rusty roof. This truck needs to tow my 24' enclosed trailer 2500 miles heavily loaded with furniture and then it's FREE and the little lady will not look at me funny when I announce the plan to toss the engine in our Crew Cab.

I have gone over the truck and it seems like it should survive...sure runs nice anyway. While changing the fluids I pulled the plug on the Getrag and my plan took it's first negative hit.... the stuff that ran out could have passed for anti-seize just thinner. I refilled it and said "It will make it" and went about overfilling it as suggested and had a little talk with it about how if it behaves I will reward it. (no time to fix now)

My issue (besides transmission)
The previous owner said he had the injection pump rebuilt about 20K miles ago and at this same time he also installed larger injectors (he called them 40hp models)

This got me to wondering... how big of a risk am I going to be at of running too high a EGT's while heavily loaded? I am not going to have time to buy and install a gage set so any advice would be appreciated.

And all the searching I have done I am still unclear..........do I NEED to run a fuel additive for the IP health issues I have read about?

NoRM
in case you haven't guessed I have never even rode in a Diesel Dodge tell I bought this.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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From: Dallas Baby!!!!
I run an additive, the PO ran it and it seems most people run some kind. How heavy is the furniture? I ran my 92 heel to steel with an auto pulling 10K for 400 miles one way. 65mph gets old.



My first CTD also.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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As with any substantial mod an EGT is recommended. But in reality how high they go is up to your right foot. While driving until you get one a few things. Ease into it, dont just stick it to the floor, and dont push it to 80 mph, drive it like a grandmas car, and you should be fine. If it smokes black when you romp on it, dont romp.
Welcome to the forum.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 03:40 PM
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From: York County Nebraska
thanks folks...

It will get sum black smoke if you really stay into it but due to mentioned transmission issues I will be very gentle with it. I plan to drive from Wis to Nebraska in the eve/night when it's cool on the least hilly route I know at 65 or less....I am a patient man, with a goal...it makes two or three of these trips and I will be forever a fan no question. And thanks, this is a very informative forum...I am looking forward to swapping this engine into my 1985 and hanging around here a while.

NoRM
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Welcome to DTR

40 hp sticks are really not too much to worry about. like the above advice, if it smokes, back out of it.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 04:03 PM
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From: Dixon, IL
I just did something like what you did. I took a 24ft enclosed livestock trailer weighing about 3-4k and about 6k of shingles down to New Orleans. The highest EGTs I saw was 1100*. That was in Memphis on I-55 heading south. I just came out of the 45 mph Construction zone and the speed upped to about 70mph. To keep up with traffic, I had the pedal to the bell housing trying to keep up wit the semi's passing me. When I saw the EGT's, I went then I looked at my speedo, 80 mph another And the semi still passed me. To know how much fuel I am pushing, I have the pump maxed, stock turbo and injectors, plus I have 4x4.

BTW, at this time (I didn't know it either) I had 2 bad u-joints and the rear end had about 1.5 quarts of oil in it

Welcome!

Jon

On Edit: The average temps I saw was 600-800* in hilly country
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MunK

It will get sum black smoke if you really stay into it but due to mentioned transmission issues I will be very gentle with it.
Don't be too gentle. You will have much less trouble with EGT and the trans if you keep the RPM up. These things like to be worked above 2000 RPM. Low RPM beats up the trans and raises the EGT.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Don't be too gentle. With the engine. BE GENTLE with your shifts and the clutch; the transmission will appreciate it. You will have much less trouble with EGT and the trans if you keep the RPM up. These things like to be worked above 2000 RPM. Low RPM beats up the trans and raises the EGT.

Don't LUG the transmission.

You can tell when you are lugging it, as the gear whine will get noticably louder.

Don't worry about over-revving, as the injector-pump governs RPM.

Stock governed = 2700 RPM

Some have replaced the spring and get = 3200 RPM

The 91 D-350 I have was once stolen from the farm equipment dealer that bought it new.

When it was found, days later, it was way out in a muddy lake-bed, hung up in the mud, with a block of wood wedged over the accelerator pedal, and the rear wheels spinning at full throttle, and had been for un-telling how long.

The engine must not have suffered from the experience, as that was many hundreds of thousands of miles ago, and it still runs like new.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:33 PM
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UH, DO worry about overreving on the downhills if you use the engine to brake. The governor does nothing to control RPMS if the power is coming from the load.

Edwin
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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From: Port Crane (Binghamton) NY
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
Don't be too gentle. You will have much less trouble with EGT and the trans if you keep the RPM up. These things like to be worked above 2000 RPM. Low RPM beats up the trans and raises the EGT.
What he said

Originally Posted by BearKiller
Don't LUG the transmission.

You can tell when you are lugging it, as the gear whine will get noticably louder.

Don't worry about over-revving, as the injector-pump governs RPM.

Stock governed = 2700 RPM

Some have replaced the spring and get = 3200 RPM

The 91 D-350 I have was once stolen from the farm equipment dealer that bought it new.

When it was found, days later, it was way out in a muddy lake-bed, hung up in the mud, with a block of wood wedged over the accelerator pedal, and the rear wheels spinning at full throttle, and had been for un-telling how long.

The engine must not have suffered from the experience, as that was many hundreds of thousands of miles ago, and it still runs like new.
also what he said
And really????? What the hell r these punks thinking these days? (we need a better emoticon for beatin on a dummy)

Dont worry about yer Getrag too much. Mine had 339K original, never rebuilt miles. And im thinking the same for the fluid. On a 50 degree day it poured out like water, with a nice silver tint. I threw in 5 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 and I made a world of difference. Oh did I mention it felt like showroom, and shifted like showroom quality?? Both before and even more so after?

I wouldnt worry too much about EGT's with 40HP sticks on a stock engine either. I know that stretch of road yer lookin at, just keep er floatin at 65MPH n you'll turn out fine. Change yer fluids and filter (all of em) and dont use a Fram. Go to yer local Fleetpride and get the fuel filter, oil filter, and air filter from them. You'll be good to go. Grab 15 quarts of Rotella 15W-40 and be on your way. You only need 12 quarts but why pay Pilot, or Flying J oil prices should u burn a quart or two on your adventure?
Maybe look into changing the rear diff fluid too.

Like others said, or rather implied, your only going to get EGT's from climbing hills, or getting up to speed. Once yer cruising they will nestle in to a constant spot. For me while towing in the NY/PA area I saw 800* on a constant basis, and never over 950* climbing hills, and holding speed at 65-75 MPH, on REAL grades.
I had my pump turned right up too.

AND, Welcome to DTR, we'll try to be too bad of an influence!
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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From: York County Nebraska
Again thanks.... ya all almost have me convinced that the getrag will survive (I appreciate this) It shift ok... it was one day old and I snapped a shift from 4th to 5th while trying to enter the freeway and got my first lesson in "this is a truck tranny" ya would think I would have known better since I have driven trucks my entire life....but too many years in my Mustang GT must have had an effect... nothing a leatherman tool and a bunch of muttering didn't fix...and that is a heck of a snap ring in the shift tower.

EGT's ... my plan is uphill as fast as reasonable without lugging or slow down and downshift. Go downhill as fast as sanity/safety allows and the uphills will be easier.

And as for influence...... you have no idea how hard it is not to grab a few tools and go "experiment" a little, but I promised myself no "drive ability improvements" until I have gotten all the stuff hauled. My gal has been very understanding and only once had to stop me from this mind set by reminding me she will support mucho mods when the engine is in the Crew Cab.

I changed oil with Rotella and a Baldwin filter. and did the transmission with Mobile 1 and the rear axle was done also (bonus it's a power lok)

fuel filter and brake lines tomorrow... should I just change the lift pump to be safe or not a likely issue?

NoRM
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MunK
the rear axle was done also (bonus it's a power lok)
Limited Slip; I think they all are.

Did you remember to pour in some "limited slip additive" ??


should I just change the lift pump to be safe or not a likely issue?

NoRM
DO check the pressure that the lift-pump is making.

It should be at least 3 PSI, though 4 - 7 PSI is better.

As not every little mudhole-town is going to have a lift-pump in stock, I would probably buy one, but not install it, just take the necessary tools to swap it, if necessary, i.e. 10mm socket, 5" extension, ratchet, screw-driver for hose-clamps, line-wrench for the out-put hard-line, etc.

Don't fight scraping the gasket, just leave the existing one alone and smear some vaseline, or Permatex #2, on it.



Also, I ALWAYS carry an extra fuel-filter, wrench, and jug of something to pour the filter full with.

I have had to swap filters on the side of the road, before.


AIR UP THE SPARE TIRE; and, if the spare is under the bed, oil up the threads on the hanger bolts.
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